Brushless midmotor 10T....should I do it?

[4.whoa]

Hi all! I recently got re-bit by the r/c bug after way to many years. I have a rc10T that has been only used a handfull of times since '95. my son got me interested in it again, but wow is it slow! I had/have a old futaba esc,and a speedworks 17t single...well after being tied .....repeatedly I might add, by his totally stock lunchbox, I'm ready to turn things up.

I've been doing alot of reading and watching vids so,... I'm going brushless. I ordered a leapard 3000kv system thinking it would be a good start,plus it SAID it was in stock,so i ordered it then.... oh,its not in stock so after alot of looking I found (what i hope anyway) a good deal on a castle creations combo. I got a sidewinder v2 and 6900kv 4-pole motor for $130. I know i might'a got carried away, i figured well if its only another $10, get the bigger motor- famous last words,right I've seen lots of vids where the big motors just pull the wheels at full throttle,so i was thinking a mid motor setup would help that. I also ordered a rpm 2.65 conversion to help the trans survive. I think having the sidewinder vs the momba will also help in that respect, but please correct me if i'm wrong!! Here how she is now:


and some new toys







The outdrives dont seem to have too much wear to me(it had bushings) do you think I'll be ok with reusing them?



this is mostly going to be for blasting around, mostly street some dirt roads / lots (smooth) I might see about getting it out on a dirt oval, but that wont be till after i get used to it. i see lots of sugestions about using the b4 slipper, but with the rpm 2.65 the only way would be to press the gear on a good black gear b4 top shaft,which from what i read is not made anymore. Are there any others types (that are still available) that would be a good fit? I'm sure there is other stuff I'll need, like cvd's and I want a good bumper as well,any suggestions?

[shane]

Get rid of the bushings. Bearings are dirt cheap now. Just my opinion.

[4.whoa]

I plan to do just that, I meant do you think the outdrives are ok. they dont look very worn to me, but I really dont have much experience with these.

[Lonestar]

welcome to the board. The outdrives will be just fine but expect them to wear much faster once you've dropped that BL combo in. This is a LOT of motor for a 2wd car btw, modern or vintage. If you ask me, it's too much. Bearings are obviously a must have and you must know what you're doing on the slipper/diff combo.

have fun!

Paul

[kaiser]

when i run my 10t in mod truck i use a 8.5t/5000kv motor and it's insane. 6900kv is too much IMO as well.

but i don't know about going mid motor in a 10t, they are so perfect too me as is and already have a ton of steering.

[4.whoa]

welcome to the board.
Thank you sir!

The outdrives will be just fine but expect them to wear much faster once you've dropped that BL combo in. This is a LOT of motor for a 2wd car btw, modern or vintage.

Yeah, I'm not seeing many running over 6000kv's, but I'll keep it adjusted back........untill I need an extra boost

If you ask me, it's too much. Bearings are obviously a must have and you must know what you're doing on the slipper/diff combo.
oh, I wish I knew what I was doing on that! I read where someone switched the gears, but it was an old thread, and they had a hard time finding the right shaft to work back then.I also read where someone altered a rpm shaft, but i havent found it again
edit: found it, but the hydra shaft eludes my search skills
have fun!

Paul

P.S. your avatar looks familiar from when i was lookin up stuff for my sons LB, I may have to hit you up for some tips on that once this is goin

[4.whoa]

when i run my 10t in mod truck i use a 8.5t/5000kv motor and it's insane. 6900kv is too much IMO as well.

but i don't know about going mid motor in a 10t, they are so perfect too me as is and already have a ton of steering.

Huh, mine really doesnt bite too hard (steering), but I mostly run it on pavement.

[kaiser]

well it's never going to bite hard on pavement unless you run foam tires, they like the dirt.

[4.whoa]

I've been going over lots of threads and put a parts list together for rebuilding it. while my gears and such are in good shape, it seems more & more parts are being discontinued for the old stealth so i think i have a list of compatable parts to keep it going. So after rereading some stuff, I think i'm gonna try the t3 slipper (direct fit right?) and I dont want to cut up my motor plate, so i plan to get one from a b4 and re drill/tap to fit. Here's my list so far, any suggestions?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wtw0191p?&I=LXEAC0

[lowrydesign]

................so i was thinking a mid motor setup would help that......... I also ordered a rpm 2.65 conversion to help the trans survive....................any suggestions?............

yup, ive built a mid motor 10T(ill post some pics for you tomorrow) and it will still pull wheelies (just not as easy as a rear motor set up) with a 6900 2s set up, plus your list will get a crap load bigger in order to do it, downside imho

as for the 2.65 trans, the topshaft has less teeth and you will eat up idlers like none other, so use a steel idler for a rc10gt. another downside imho

use the KISS method...... way less headaches this way

[Y'ernat Al]

Lowry has good points. How about picking up one of these (and then filling it full of readily available B4 gears)...?

A lot more work, but if that's what you are into...Just a thought.

[4.whoa]

................so i was thinking a mid motor setup would help that......... I also ordered a rpm 2.65 conversion to help the trans survive....................any suggestions?............

yup, ive built a mid motor 10T(ill post some pics for you tomorrow) and it will still pull wheelies (just not as easy as a rear motor set up) with a 6900 2s set up, plus your list will get a crap load bigger in order to do it, downside imho

as for the 2.65 trans, the topshaft has less teeth and you will eat up idlers like none other, so use a steel idler for a rc10gt. another downside imho

use the KISS method...... way less headaches this way

I was thinking the smaller top Gear would be easier to turn , easing the torque strain on the trans.

[4.whoa]

Lowry has good points. How about picking up one of these (and then filling it full of readily available B4 gears)...?

xfc5001_1.jpg

A lot more work, but if that's what you are into...Just a thought.

I admit I don't know too much, yet, about these associated's. by the time I got this truck , i was several years out of my racing days, & my only rc10 experience was cutting down a chassis, & installing an aftermarket trans ( MIP,IIRC) in a friends gold pan.

I have seen the 4 gear mentioned here & there but don't know much about it. what ratio is that then , 2.6? will it mount on a flat chassis or does it need a hole ? and is it still in production ,or at least available? the Rpm i got ,my order was the last one @ A-main.

[Y'ernat Al]

..I have seen the 4 gear mentioned here & there but don't know much about it. what ratio is that then , 2.6? will it mount on a flat chassis or does it need a hole ? and is it still in production ,or at least available? the Rpm i got ,my order was the last one @ A-main.

They are still available. A main even.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1649_1650/products_id/182522/n/X-Factory-4-Gear-Transmission-Case

The second idler (4th gear) gets the motor rotating correctly without turning everything upsidedown and backwards. I saw in your first post you wanted to keep the wheels planted, and that motor will torque like no other. The tranny case is from the B4 mid-motor conversion car called the X 6 Squared, and supposed to use the B4 chassis hole. But with the 10T arm length, and the right carriers, who knows? You'd have to get into it yourself and do a bit of googling this site and others to learn a bit though. It would not be easy, but a mid motor flip on a tub is tricky any way you slice it.

[4.whoa]

I did some rearch and I am liking that trans however I have some questions now....

will the b4.1 gear diff work in it?
is the gear diff better / stronger?
will it even fit in the same gearbox or is that special too?
do the new style idler gears with the bearings inside them use the same size bearings as the old idler did?
Are the lightened out drives better/stronger or did it make them weaker?
are the metal idler gears needed?
when i do a search will it ever understand what I 'm really looking for?