How to move battery cups forward

[85Edinger]

Hi all,
I just wanted to share a very simple way that I found to move the battery cups on any RC10 or RC10t without drilling new holes in the chassis: double-sided tape. I use 3m outdoor strength. I saw some people saying that in order to use a LiPo, you have to drill new holes, but I really don't think it's necessary.
On a related note, I was wondering: on the short-arm buggies, are the holes to use a single battery cup with the bulkhead/ msc servo area pre-drilled, or does the owner drill them? All I know is that's not the stock battery position, and mine did not line up when I screwed it in.

[JK Racing]

the double sided tape idea is great, but mine came loose yesterday at the track.

i believe the older chassis the holes were not lined up correctly (they werent intended for inline battery placement), so new holes would be in order.

[Orange]

In my old is new car I had an old cup that was cut on the front. I just left it in the stock position (B chassis straight that is) and cut the rest of the front out. The servo mount is then used as the stop for the battery going forward... I had a little slop, so I added a thin battery foam inside the bulkhead. Just an idea for a possible solution.

You also don't have to use a cup for this method if you are creative enough, you can get some aluminum tubing and cut them to the right height, thread the inside of them with a 4-40 tap and use your favorite brace and your good.

For me, and this may just be me, who knows... If the chassis is used (Scratched and what not) I just drill the new holes out and countersink them... If I plan on running the car, I most definately drill new position for battery cup.

[LowClassCC]

with my rc10 i removed the battery cup and replaced it with a pair of b44 alloy battery posts. i have the a&l chassis stiffeners which has a batter hold down strap. the battery butts right up against the steering servo so there is no front to back movement. i just needed the b44 posts to prevent front side to side movement. if you don't have b44 battery posts you could also use a cut down old bent up nose brace tube also.

[RC104ever]

I will second the b44 posts. Before that I cut the front off one of the battery cups.

[85Edinger]

I know double-sided tape isn't necessarily the best solution. I just wanted it to look fairly original and I don't want to drill holes in it. The car's a runner, and I've never had 3m outdoor-grade tape fail.
I like the battery post idea. I'd think just plain old velcro would work, too.

[Orange]

For me, it is required to make sure that a lipo is bolted down.

If it were me, I would at least drill the chassis to center the cup... Pretty sure that someone around here has a template that can be printed? and then I would just cut the front of the cup out. The servo will act to stop forward movement of battery.

[PBR Allstar]

personally I have no problem drilling the tub, granted my cars are racers, if I had a 9.9 point shelfer then I probably wouldn't be driving it (I'd probably be selling it, I don't really do the shelf thing). that said, if the chassis isn't perfect then I don't see any point to not drilling it if all is done properly.

I think in general people forget a little that these cars for the most part, unless then are SNIB are not really that rare. I mean it's cool that people take pride in them, I dig that, but if you're going to run the car, a couple holes wont really make a bit of difference in the long run, and if the car takes a tumble it might save you from cracking a $120 lipo pack which in turn might burn the whole thing to the ground anyway?

my .02

[GoMachV]

I have used sheets of aluminum to build an inner tub false bottom, it bolts in using stock holes, but allows endless new holes to be drilled without drilling the tub

[85Edinger]

I get why people drill their chassis, I just don't want to myself. I'm borderline OCD that way. Whenever I start to think about it, the little A stamp starts glaring at me.
BTW, I really don't get $120 batteries. I'm guessing it's a MaxAmps. Why? A Gens Ace will give nearly as much power for $30-40, an SPC delivers as much or more for $60. Is it the "warranty"?

[PBR Allstar]

I run thunder power packs in my 2s cars, and revtech black labels in my 1s cars. Thunder powers warranty service is second to none. I do a lot of blinky oval racing and you have to have good packs with low IR. Coincidentally the older packs become mod class or offroad packs. I have a couple gens ace nano packs that work well for practice and I'll run them in certain things for races, They have a pretty hi IR and they don't hold high voltage as long as a TP or revtech pack.


Funny that you mention OCD, I'm the same way but if something is taped down that has screw holes is when I freak out. I get the same way over turnbuckle lengths and bump steer. I'm liable to have a melt down if I buy a used car that has plier marks on the shocks.

[85Edinger]

Good to know. I'll make sure not to sell you my Rustler.
It's funny how the warranty on maxamps batteries is a discount on a new maxamps battery.

[PBR Allstar]

Good to know. I'll make sure not to sell you my Rustler.
It's funny how the warranty on maxamps batteries is a discount on a new maxamps battery.

I've warranteed five or six TP packs over the years, things as simple as a pack that wouldn't balance consistently to dead cell (most times a cell got killed it was my fault, forgetting to unplug a pack or something dumb like that) Every time was the same result, send in pack with warranty card and within two weeks I get an email with an invoice for $0 and tracking # for a new pack. They always exchanges end out the most current pack as well, Ive gotten two 65c packs when I sent in 50c packs.

Good customer service always makes me a return customer

[85Edinger]

That's exactly what I'm saying. Thunder Power batteries are marginally cheaper than maxamps, but seem to be as good or better in every way.

[menace]

I have found that sometimes when you buy a used chassis it already has extra holes drilled in it and more often than not they are not where you need them to be to mount the battery cup in the right position but are in the way of drilling the new holes where you want them. My easy fix for this is to shoo-goo the battery cup to the chassis. No more drilling and very secure. perfect fit every time. Just apply the shoo-goo, place the battery cup on the chassis and slide the battery in. Make sure it's where you want it and let dry. To remove the cup just hit it with a hair dryer to warm it up and it should pop right up.