Rear mount in alu or delrin?
Rear mount in alu or delrin?
Guys, would like to hear all your opinions...
Given a choice, would you prefer to have delrin or aluminum rear mounts? May it be for bashing or competitions...
At the same time, what degree of toe-in and anti-squat do you prefer for the best handling? What do you think if they are 0 degree toe-in and anti-squat?
Given a choice, would you prefer to have delrin or aluminum rear mounts? May it be for bashing or competitions...
At the same time, what degree of toe-in and anti-squat do you prefer for the best handling? What do you think if they are 0 degree toe-in and anti-squat?
My collections:
Nikko Brat, Nikko Dictator II, Nikko Thunder Eagle, Kyosho Pure Ten Nitro, Associated RC10, Associated RC10T, Associated RC10 Graphite, Associated B4, Tamiya Tamtech 1/24 Porsche 962C, Tamiya Striker, Tamiya TRF 501X WCE.
Nikko Brat, Nikko Dictator II, Nikko Thunder Eagle, Kyosho Pure Ten Nitro, Associated RC10, Associated RC10T, Associated RC10 Graphite, Associated B4, Tamiya Tamtech 1/24 Porsche 962C, Tamiya Striker, Tamiya TRF 501X WCE.
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Re: Rear mount in alu or delrin?
It really depends on what you are using them for. If its for bashing, then it doesn't matter. If you are racing, then you might switch between 1.5* and 3* inner mounts. I doubt you would ever use 0* inner mounts. Also, stock antisquat is the norm, so it shouldn't be changed. -Jeff
- Atlas
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Re: Rear mount in alu or delrin?
The alum. rear arm mount I currently produce have 1.5 degrees of toe in and stock anti-squart.
- klavy69
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Re: Rear mount in alu or delrin?
my vote would be to go delrin over aluminum. I still like having a weak point back there when clipping the tube
Todd

Todd
Peace and professionlism.....Kabunga signing off!!!
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Re: Rear mount in alu or delrin?
It depends on the cost, but as for having a weak point back there, I would rather break the part that is still widely available (suspension arms) than the $30 bespoke part.
- JK Racing
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Re: Rear mount in alu or delrin?
RPM arms are still available, but stock rear arms have been discontinued (buggy)
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Re: Rear mount in alu or delrin?
All your precious feedbacks are noted with appreciations. Its seems to explain that the best/ appropriate rear mount will be with 1.5 degrees toe-in and anti-squat. Correct me if I'm wrong.
My collections:
Nikko Brat, Nikko Dictator II, Nikko Thunder Eagle, Kyosho Pure Ten Nitro, Associated RC10, Associated RC10T, Associated RC10 Graphite, Associated B4, Tamiya Tamtech 1/24 Porsche 962C, Tamiya Striker, Tamiya TRF 501X WCE.
Nikko Brat, Nikko Dictator II, Nikko Thunder Eagle, Kyosho Pure Ten Nitro, Associated RC10, Associated RC10T, Associated RC10 Graphite, Associated B4, Tamiya Tamtech 1/24 Porsche 962C, Tamiya Striker, Tamiya TRF 501X WCE.
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Re: Rear mount in alu or delrin?
Well, I would make them with whatever stock anti-squat is. I thought it was 3*. This way nobody has to run washers under their blocks to get it to same as stock. -Jeff
Re: Rear mount in alu or delrin?
Noted buddy! Any other opinions?
My collections:
Nikko Brat, Nikko Dictator II, Nikko Thunder Eagle, Kyosho Pure Ten Nitro, Associated RC10, Associated RC10T, Associated RC10 Graphite, Associated B4, Tamiya Tamtech 1/24 Porsche 962C, Tamiya Striker, Tamiya TRF 501X WCE.
Nikko Brat, Nikko Dictator II, Nikko Thunder Eagle, Kyosho Pure Ten Nitro, Associated RC10, Associated RC10T, Associated RC10 Graphite, Associated B4, Tamiya Tamtech 1/24 Porsche 962C, Tamiya Striker, Tamiya TRF 501X WCE.
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Re: Rear mount in alu or delrin?
Hi Brat,
i assume this will be for BTP track,?
smell something cooking, well for me i have tried the stock rear Arm mounts that came with the team car. and the car handles great (its just my driving that is not hahahaha) in BTP, since BTP more of a torque track (not a high speed track) it would be advantageous if you have more toe in on the rear for your car to be more maneuverable on such tight tracks (please correct me if I'm wrong Gurus) . That is MHO, for the delrin and Allu part, again, since the track is not forgiving for old cars like what we have, it would be (like SteveK said) nice to have a week point rather than loose a part that is expensive than the one that is not.
So far the only part that i broke when i ran my runner at BTP was my 20 yrs old ( plastic gear) mirco servo, other than that no more.... oh one more thing if you plan to race your Runner, buy a bumper,...(JG) and just trim it a bit, it will save you time and money fixing your car.
see you...
note: using a HW 8.5T on standard stealth settings.
BTW, i also have an allu rear arm mounts but opted not to use it, its more of a show rather than an option parts .
Jun.
i assume this will be for BTP track,?

So far the only part that i broke when i ran my runner at BTP was my 20 yrs old ( plastic gear) mirco servo, other than that no more.... oh one more thing if you plan to race your Runner, buy a bumper,...(JG) and just trim it a bit, it will save you time and money fixing your car.
see you...
note: using a HW 8.5T on standard stealth settings.
BTW, i also have an allu rear arm mounts but opted not to use it, its more of a show rather than an option parts .
Jun.
“It is more shameful to distrust our friends than to be deceived by them.”
― Confucius
― Confucius
Re: Rear mount in alu or delrin?
Hahaha...slowjun, you are right! I've got something up my sleeves.... 

My collections:
Nikko Brat, Nikko Dictator II, Nikko Thunder Eagle, Kyosho Pure Ten Nitro, Associated RC10, Associated RC10T, Associated RC10 Graphite, Associated B4, Tamiya Tamtech 1/24 Porsche 962C, Tamiya Striker, Tamiya TRF 501X WCE.
Nikko Brat, Nikko Dictator II, Nikko Thunder Eagle, Kyosho Pure Ten Nitro, Associated RC10, Associated RC10T, Associated RC10 Graphite, Associated B4, Tamiya Tamtech 1/24 Porsche 962C, Tamiya Striker, Tamiya TRF 501X WCE.
Re: Rear mount in alu or delrin?
I personally felt that the stock rear mount (with 3 degrees toe-in) for T2 is better and beefier than the gold pan stock's ones (1.5 degrees toe-in). Any preferences from racers between the two? Also, are the anti-squat for both the same?
My collections:
Nikko Brat, Nikko Dictator II, Nikko Thunder Eagle, Kyosho Pure Ten Nitro, Associated RC10, Associated RC10T, Associated RC10 Graphite, Associated B4, Tamiya Tamtech 1/24 Porsche 962C, Tamiya Striker, Tamiya TRF 501X WCE.
Nikko Brat, Nikko Dictator II, Nikko Thunder Eagle, Kyosho Pure Ten Nitro, Associated RC10, Associated RC10T, Associated RC10 Graphite, Associated B4, Tamiya Tamtech 1/24 Porsche 962C, Tamiya Striker, Tamiya TRF 501X WCE.
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