Sealed bearings = noticeably more friction?

[Coelacanth]

I seem to remember reading somewhere that, at least initially, sealed bearings have noticeably more friction than regular ball bearings...and unless something isn't right, I'm noticing that very thing with my CYANide build. With motors removed, it rolls with noticeably more resistance than my gold zebra runner with normal, well-used ball-bearings.

Have the rest of you guys noticed this as well? Assuming this is normal, how long does it take to break in the new sealed bearings? Everything else in the car runs smooth as silk, and I don't suppose it's the belt drive conversion adding to the friction...

[Bimdapogs]

New bearings have oil in them so they don't rust. What I do for prepping is I flush the factory oil with brake/motor cleaner, then I re-oil it with a drop of Trinity Royal Oil.

[ROH73]

By sealed, do you mean with elastomer seals? If so, they'll break in a little, but they'll always have more friction than metal shield bearings, which simply have a ring that keeps large dirt particles out, but not dust or moisture. I may be old school, but I only use elastomer seal bearings on my Clodbuster because I run it in the snow .

[ROH73]

I checked your CYANide thread and saw you're using the blue rubber sealed bearings. I have similar ones in my Clod. They'll get better over time, but they'll never be as free as your original Optima metal shield bearings.

[Lowgear]

This is why I think the Avid Revolution bearings are so great. Rubber shielding on the side that goes towards the elements, and metal shielding on the side that doesn't.

[Coelacanth]

I checked your CYANide thread and saw you're using the blue rubber sealed bearings. I have similar ones in my Clod. They'll get better over time, but they'll never be as free as your original Optima metal shield bearings.

Thanks for the info, guys. The perfectionist in me wanted to disassemble everything and re-lube the bearings or find out why they weren't as smooth-rolling as regular bearings.

[kaiser]

This is why I think the Avid Revolution bearings are so great. Rubber shielding on the side that goes towards the elements, and metal shielding on the side that doesn't.

+1 i love those bearings.

[Coelacanth]

This is why I think the Avid Revolution bearings are so great. Rubber shielding on the side that goes towards the elements, and metal shielding on the side that doesn't.

+1 i love those bearings.

Never heard of those...I'll have to check those out.

[Jay Dub]

One thing we used to do on our schumacher rubber sealed bearings was to flip the seal inside out. This way the rubber seal has less contact with the inner race, and allows the bearing to be more free. It will still seal, just not have as much drag. -Jeff

[Hcp22]

I like to know if this Avid Revolution bearing protects much better than those ones with metal shields? Or is it just same same but different?

[Coelacanth]

I'd be interested in that answer, too. I also found something that was contributing to the friction. According to the manual, the center gear requires two 4mm washers on either side, and a little 3mm O-ring on the outside, just before installing the cover. However, the original washers were very thin, almost shim-like. I didn't have any exactly like that, so I used normal 4mm washers, which turned out to be a bit too thick and with the O-ring in place, the gearbox cover fit a little tight and was pressing the O-ring/washers against the bearings and resisting them.

When I removed the gearbox & center gear, the car rolled much more smoothly (as expected) but I noticed even with the center gear installed but with the gearbox cover off, it still rolled noticeably more smoothly than the way I had it before.

[Lonestar]

New bearings are typically greased - they never spin as free as older ones in good shape

and yes, rubber seals create more friction. I'm not even sure they create more protection to be honest, if dust/water wants to get in, it will. The good news is that bearings are $1 a piece these days...

Hybrid (metal on one side, rubber on another) bearings are available from most shops, and only marginally more expensive than "normal" ones

Paul

[Lowgear]

I like to know if this Avid Revolution bearing protects much better than those ones with metal shields? Or is it just same same but different?

The Revolution bearings are rubber shielded on one side and metal shielded on the other. This way you get the best of both worlds. Plus it doesn't cost extra for this option.

They're to be used where only one side of the bearing (rubber side) will see the elements in an off-road application.

[Hcp22]

I like to know if this Avid Revolution bearing protects much better than those ones with metal shields? Or is it just same same but different?

The Revolution bearings are rubber shielded on one side and metal shielded on the other. This way you get the best of both worlds. Plus it doesn't cost extra for this option.

They're to be used where only one side of the bearing (rubber side) will see the elements in an off-road application.

All of that I understand. Back in the days when I raced buggy’s I removed all inner shields from the bearings! And after every race, the bearings went in ultra sound washer, and you usually even change wheel hub bearings during the race! But nowadays I don’t wane strip down the whole car after some 20-30 minutes of bashing! I know there are some expensive sealed bearings for $80-100 for each kit! But can I have almost the same protection for $15-20, then I’m interested.

But I’m some watt skeptic… that’s the resend way I asked if any one of you guys have any experience from these new Avid Revolution bearings?

[Lonestar]

But I’m some watt skeptic… that’s the resend way I asked if any one of you guys have any experience from these new Avid Revolution bearings?

I don't buy the Avid ones specifically but I use hybrid ones from other resellers. Keep in mind Avid doesn't manufacture anything themselves, they just purchase in bulk, repackage and resell, although I trust Joor he picks up the right gear.

anyways - hybrid bearings are good. I use them in wheel hubs (metal shield "in") and as clutch bearings where there's 2 to protect each other if you want. Taking the inner shielf off is something I can't convince me to do

Paul