WINDOW FRAME HELP?

[FasterLouder]

I'm finally taking the plunge and painting the X-Cellerator body on my XX CR Kinwald.
It's nearly all masked up and looking great,but there's one thing I'm scratching about-the window frames.
What's the best way to do these?
I'm going box art and I need to frame each window with around a 3-4mm yellow frame.

If anyone could help me out,I'd be a happy chappy!

I really don't want to mess this up,I don't fancy my chances of obtaining another NIP X-Cellerator body.

Here's the paint scheme I'm going for...Oh,if anyone has any really good,high definition shots of the box art,could you post 'em up for me?
I have a few,but more would be nice.

[Brandon G]

Here's a few pics. Not much better but there nonetheless:
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=7610&p=72963&hilit=kinwald#p72963

I typically use the supplied window masks if it came with them. Paint the darker colors first obviously. When it comes time to spray the yellow, I cut the window masks back to whatever thickness I want the line freehand. Probably not what you wanted to hear. It is by far the easiest way to do it, and has forced me to get better with my freehand cutting. The other option of masking off the line inside the body just takes too long and the results are not much better. Just remember when freehanding with the exacto, to just give it enough pressure to go through the mask, and hold the knife as far from the blade as possible.. Makes for smoother lines. I'm sure you will at some point have to do some freehand in order to replicate the drips. (fun )

If you really wanted to insure perfection, cut your masks out to the desired size before hand. One smaller than the other to give you the line thickness you desire. Put the smaller mask on the body first, then put the larger one over it. When it is time to paint the yellow, simply remove the larger mask. This allows you to use small decal scissors to precisely cut the mask seperate from the body without the use of an exacto. The extra time it takes can give great results as long as the tape edges are burnished well.

Invest in a set of the Tamiya Flourine coated decal scissors. I love mine.

[FasterLouder]

Awesome,thanks for that!
I don't have any pre-cut masks for the windows,but I'll just make two sets,one for the frames and a larger one for the windows.
Sweet.

[templeofspeed]

Invest in a set of the Tamiya Flourine coated decal scissors. I love mine.

The only decal scissors I find are the 74031, no mention of fluorine coating. Sounds trick though. I have some of the other Tamiya Craft tools, I like them a lot.

Are they in fact these?:

[phoenix]

Awesome,thanks for that!
I don't have any pre-cut masks for the windows,but I'll just make two sets,one for the frames and a larger one for the windows.
Sweet.

you won't need masks for the frames. Simply cut the frames at the end by trimming the window masks with a scalpel.

[SteveK]

You could use yellow pin-striping tape, or 1/8" masking tape to mask them. Take the masking tape and follow the window lines molded on the body, and then cover the clear portion of the window with a larger piece of tape, or liquid mask. Paint the black portion of the body first, then use the inner edge of the masking tape as a guide for your hobby knife and cut off whatever overlaps the window trim. Peel off the window trim and you'll have a consistent border, with the clear portion of the window still masked off.

You can use Parma pin-striping tape inside the body, if you are careful to burnish the edges and keep the paint from bleeding underneath.

When I have window trim decals, I always put them on first, and then apply the window masks. I masked the windows and then found they were a little too big for the decals, so I had to touch up the paint later.

[SmallScaleSmitty]

You could use yellow pin-striping tape, or 1/8" masking tape to mask them. Take the masking tape and follow the window lines molded on the body, and then cover the clear portion of the window with a larger piece of tape, or liquid mask.

That's how I did it on my L4. 1/8"

[Brandon G]

Invest in a set of the Tamiya Flourine coated decal scissors. I love mine.

The only decal scissors I find are the 74031, no mention of fluorine coating. Sounds trick though. I have some of the other Tamiya Craft tools, I like them a lot.

Are they in fact these?:

They look like the ones. I had to order mine from a Japan ebayer for the flourine coating. Ended up costing the same, just had to wait a bit longer to get them.

[DerbyDan]

Good luck with the shell fasterlouder - i'd definately go down the route of cutting out two sets of masks off the shell the first set smaller than the last to be applied - i've done this on a number of times with good results. I hate cutting out designs on the shell as you only really get one chance of getting it right + its often tricky to get into those hard to reach areas with the blade.

By the way - is there a source for the X-cellorator bodyshell? These were by far & away the most popular for the XX - but now it seems that only the original DoubleX shell is easy to come across?

[bearrickster]

Good luck with the shell fasterlouder - By the way - is there a source for the X-cellorator bodyshell? These were by far & away the most popular for the XX - but now it seems that only the original DoubleX shell is easy to come across?

Not at this time, I got a bunch of them from the guy who has the mould but he wants a order of 50 at a time now. I had a hard time getting rid of the last 20 I got. so I wont be geting another order anytime soon.

[DerbyDan]

Not at this time, I got a bunch of them from the guy who has the mould but he wants a order of 50 at a time now. I had a hard time getting rid of the last 20 I got. so I wont be geting another order anytime soon.

Damn! - sometimes don't you just wish you could go back in time, I could remember there being loads hanging up in my friend's model shop 10 or years ago

[bearrickster]

the guys here bought a bunch maybe you could talk someone out of one?

[uzzi]

Here is an alternative solution if you are worried...how about using some coloured vinyl stickers (You can get them from sign writers shops)?

Step 1. Get an outline of the actual window. Do this by applying masking tape over the top of the orginal window area (outside of the shell). After you have pressed down the masking tape, draw an outline of window frame using a Sharpie marker.

Step 2. Remove the masking with the drawn outline and place it over the top of the vinyl sticker. From there you could tidy up the outer line and measure the actual width of the frame (by the way 3-4mm is way too thick for 1/10 window frames try 2mm) this would be your inner line.

Step 3. With a steady hand and a sharp blade cut the shape out. Cut the inside line first as it is easier to hold in a large sheet then of course cut the outside line. Remove the masking tape....Voila you have a window frame!

You can use the same method in reverse to cut out the actual masking if you are really keen. The advantage of this method is if you screw it up you can always repeat it again. Vinyl generally do not make good masking tape but if you are careful with first few coats of paint you should be good.

[Jay Dub]

One thing that may make a difference to you is knowing that brians bodies weren't perfect. Most of the windows and details were cut by hand. I have seen many of them and thought the outlines could be neater/better (although I am a perfectionist). So doing a repro project car and body isn't misrepresenting if the body isn't perfect. The box art body isn't the actual race body, and was painted specifically for the box -So it is much cleaner. -Jeff

[besty22]

Hi uzzi. Thanks for the window masking tips
can't belive I never thought of that.
Thanks