Charlie don't surf wrote:There should be a small brass or copper shim that is sandwiched between the rack and bellcrank
I think I lost those pieces when I was cleaning the buggy a year ago.
I'm really debating, about how I should go about restoring the gold tub. I'm never going to run it. It will be display along with that yellow body, gold dampers and vintage wheels/tires. Should I bother with a set of new bearings? Most of these bearings are shot and should really be replaced. A lot of screws and nuts are rusted and worn out. The turnbuckles are in horrible shape for front and rear. I'm tempted to keep them as is, since it goes well with the age of the RC10 but the other side of me wanted to make them as nice as possible ...
Charlie don't surf wrote:There should be a small brass or copper shim that is sandwiched between the rack and bellcrank
I think I lost those pieces when I was cleaning the buggy a year ago.
The black molded World's Car bellcranks had tiny plastic shims that would sit between the bottom bearing and the chassis. I lost one of these early on, so I just use the conical spring washers from the 1/4" axles, with the narrower end facing up. Unless I was using them on a graphite chassis, in which case I screwed the post to the chassis with a longer screw and used a nut to hold the bellcrank down onto that.
Charlie don't surf wrote:There should be a small brass or copper shim that is sandwiched between the rack and bellcrank
I think I lost those pieces when I was cleaning the buggy a year ago.
I'm really debating, about how I should go about restoring the gold tub. I'm never going to run it. It will be display along with that yellow body, gold dampers and vintage wheels/tires. Should I bother with a set of new bearings? Most of these bearings are shot and should really be replaced. A lot of screws and nuts are rusted and worn out. The turnbuckles are in horrible shape for front and rear. I'm tempted to keep them as is, since it goes well with the age of the RC10 but the other side of me wanted to make them as nice as possible ...
Since your intent is to restore it for display purposes only, don't worry about bearings. Leave the bushings in it, since it won't be spinning the parts much at all. Just buy what you need slowly, or buy and old beat up car and it might have the bearings, bushings and screws you need.
-Ruffy
Also consider that you can use different length turnbuckles in different locations with different length ball cups. i.e., short Lunsford blacks or stock Associated cups will use different length rods than a long Losi ball cup will. You can mix and match to get correct operating lengths if you need to. I'm using Losi natural HD ball cups on one of my "old is new" RC10s and they use slightly shorter rods than listed above.
Here is another project. New built out of the box. This one is staying all factory original with a box art body. The RC10 was the buggy I raced as a kid so it is my favorite. I am working on a couple of different versions for my collection. I...
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looks like that would be a fun buggy to drive.
Heck ya, I'd throw a nice brushless system in it and go racing :lol:
I never tire looking at pictures of pretty gold pans. you have a really nice buggy there.
Hi , this is my RC 10 gold tub resto , i start with this and now after some cleaning but the chassis have some dammage.
I want to make a Jay runner replica, soft replica with whites wheels but same paint.
PRP
I was just reading the timeline on Team associated's website but they never say why they made the change from the gold to the black tubs. Does anybody know why?
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He buys the dye stuff from the company that he bought the ano kit from, and he says that the dye for the black ano is actually 3-4 times as costly as ANY of the other colors. :shock:
No kidding. You learn something new every day... I wonder why...
my next project is going to be a nitro powered gold tub buggy.....most rc10gt parts should work,has anyone ever tried this and what problems did you encounter?
Wanted to share pics of my NIB RC10. Also has NIB Magnum Junior, and period correct batteries. I bought the lot a couple years ago and it's been sitting in my closet. I open it to take a peek once in a while. I'm trying to get up the nerve to build...
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Ah the age old question... to build or not to build. Doug Carter put it the best way to me... its not like its sealed...its almost a SHAME not to build it . Soon thereafter I found myself tearing open the bags of my JRX2
As a kid back in the mid 80's I got into off-road and dirt oval 1/10 racing. I was wooed by the flashy ads for the original Ultima and the Optima/Turbo Optima. The RC10s where my competitors. I think in retrospect, I made the wrong choice and always...
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buy the viper body. it is similar to the body you are missing. the missing body is called protech II and is discontinued/rare UNFORTUNATELY.
I have that kit with black parts NIB. Came with the viper body.
I've seen a previous post about putting B2 CVD's on a gold tub to use B2 tires and wheels. But what do you need for a gold tub to use B4 tires and wheels??
This is the where it all got started with my RC10 passion.
This vehicle is intended to be raced on our carpet track here in Germany. I only take it a couple of times a year out to the track, to keep it in one piece.
Its brushless powered and the...