RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Guys, no hijack, its all good lol.

Alex, thanks lol, its pretty loud. Im a bit peeved, ive had to trim a good amount to allow my servo horn to not foul the shell, pretty annoying, but there was no other way to flip the servo, and i tried various horns, all of them hit the body, ah well.

Yes, thats my studio scale Probe droid, this is my main hobby, Star Wars Modelling, the model here is one of only two stop motion savvy builds around at the moment, my avatar show a pic of me with a commision job i took on for another set of stop motion legs, for a guy in Australia.

Here is a pic of my droid at last years prop meet at the NEC Memorabilia, well be there again this Nov too with a bunch of studio scale models again!

bests..........lee

Man.. Star Wars stuff, that brings back some sad memories. When my wife and i moved about 10-12 years ago i sold all my childhood toys, i had everything Star Wars.. that's when i also sold off all my original race buggies too

Back on topic, i might have some Novak decals here. Got a picture of what you need? and i'll have a hunt.

Paul.

Paul, trust me, these cost a bit more than the Kenner toys, but, the general idea is the same, im a BIG CHILD lol.

Its the old Novak swoosh logo buddy, anything like that i guess, im finding it hard to grab an image right now.

bests.......lee

Ok, i need yet more help. Ive just received one set of original Yokomo shock collars, however, on fitting them, two, of these "brand new" AE shock shafts, are bent, lol, you really have to laugh at this guy.

Anyhoo, whats more, the seals weap oil like its going out of fashion, so, anybody know what part numbers i need, for shafts and seals? They are the older, non bladder style AE shocks if that helps?

Secondly, decent nicd/nimh saddle packs, where do you guys go? Was really looking for assembled that i can just fit my corrallys, didnt want to get into building them, but i cant even find decent cells these days, and i dont really want to fit lipo in this baby.

lee

There are very few places in the UK still matching cells so decent packs are hard to find. I've been using these guys http://www.dpmodelracing.com/products/products.html for my 4 cell (Mardave V12) packs. They're pricey, but they are good cells. They'll assemble packs in any configuration for you, just give them an email first

If you don't want race quality matched cells try these instead : http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/cml_product.php?range=RACING&productId=0000005997

Paul.

I don´t like the way this battery conspiracy is going - Don´t You dare poor a set of john doe noname cells in that beauty

Paul thanks buddy, the first option looks the best ive seen yet sadly, so much junk around now, blasted Lipo's lol.

Dennis lol, i have to make do with what i CAN get i guess heh, in a perfect world, id love some SCRC's or similar.

lee

The cells in the first link are East Power - these were the last sub-C size cell battery packs I used before the switch to LiPos - they were great packs & I still use them in various fun vehicles, in fact they were so good that we didn't bother buying matched packs! These were much better than the Nicads of old

http://www.modeltech.co.uk/catalog/default.php?cPath=139&PHPSESSID=1b3cc24ee1b62febee4de56a42acac8a

Edit; Associated still use the 'emulsion' design shocks on their current B4 & B44 buggies - albeit with plastic caps instead of the old ali ones, the re-build kits are still readily available.... & cheap!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Associated-Shock-Rebuild-Kit-ASC6440-/360378540934?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e83c2386

Dan, yes, they look the ticket, as long as they are fairly punchy, im not out to break any records, or blow a diff lol, just have a bit of gentle fun TBH, i didnt spend all this to gun it hard and leave it abused lol, im not even going nuts on a motor, maybe a 17t Reedy Ultra?

lee

Just saw your edit, cheers Dan, thats perfect, just need two front shafts, and i can get a set of shocks back to health, she is getting there LOL.
Reggie being a top bloke, is trading me a Mr Lexan shell and try too, sooo, i can get a decent fit on my chassis as opposed to this TBG rubbish.
Thing is, im now leaning back to a Masami paint job lol, cant help it, i do like green!

lee

If the cells looks matter then have a look here : http://www.dms-racing.com/

DMS are a great shop in the UK, although their website isn't too easy to navigate. I can't link to specific pages on their site so click sale and select batteries-competition use in the drop down menu. They have loads of clearance cells, even Yokomo branded ones Although most will be sold loose.. so you'd have to make them up yourself.

Paul.

Yup, you can't fault MrLexan's shells - I've had 3 different shells off him & they are all as good.... If not better than OE, nice of Reggie to trade you for one

One thing I'd say, is to be careful where you cut down the sides of the shell, it's the same on the original Yokomo item, but for me the cut-line is too high in relation to the undertray

Go lipo Lee, much better.

I have the shafts, front .71 shaft NIP with a gold coating (I may have the 1.02 rears too), but they are down my parents house as I moved most on my R/C down as I moving house in two weeks. I will be going down there in the next couple of days if you can wait.

This http://users.telenet.be/elvo/ is a great resource for building AE shocks. I have never had a set leak

Edit to add on that link you will need to navigate to columns on the left hand side

DerbyDan wrote:nice of Reggie to trade you for one

I'm getting a painted and very slighty used shell in return, which (if I'm careful and lucky will strip out ok and not haze or crack and can then be repainted for an original shell on my replica..........so I do have my motives too mine's just more of a gamble

Lipos will fit by the way!!