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Great build and pics. Would you happen to know what the weight difference is between the original shocks vs. the new style? Also did they make a noticeable difference in handling?

when I get a chance, I will weigh them and report back. I know my car was 1510 grams (minimum weight is 1499), so the big bores didnt hurt it very much, if at all.

Never did weight those shocks...

BUT...since the Classic kits are out, this car has been cleaned up and put somewhat close to stock/Worlds as possible, currently hanging on "the wall" in the garage awaiting period correct electronics (or at the very least, a brushed set up).







Still has non-threaded B4 team shocks and B4 top shaft/slipper. I put a bunch of Factory Team blue bits on it, most the screws (from the bottom of the chassis) are blue as well. I didnt put the B4 gear cover back on (yet), just noticed when I looked at the pictures. I havent decided if I am going back to wing tubes/wire, or put the B4 mounts back onto it. It is drilled/set up for the B4 mounts.

I couldnt stand it...

Busted out the Novak T4, Magnum AM radio, Futaba S148 & Reedy TRU Stock motor. (Yes, I need to trim the chassis to motor plate screw)

JK Racing wrote:more front end work:





HOUGE steering experts, HELP....the center link hits the tie rod? I may pull the Losi steering out of my other car while I find a solution for this issue:

Gold, blue, and white looks soooo good. I'm definitely gonna go that route on my goldpan.

but as in the pictures above...its black/white now my "faux" worlds car.

Looks great!!! but should your motor plate-to chassis screw be touching your motor?

the losi steering would actually make it worse I think. I think this is where those 'short' shoulder ball ends are recommended. Do you have something under the steering racks that would raise them up higher than a stock setup? I usually put the 'stud' nut on backwards, so that the bearing rests on the chassis, or on a thin washer, that should sit as low as stock system. I know some version of the houge steering are 'fat' on the tie link, but then tapers down for the steering link. later versions and world versions are all at the same lower level.

marlo wrote:Looks great!!! but should your motor plate-to chassis screw be touching your motor?

I havent trimmed it up yet

jwscab wrote:the losi steering would actually make it worse I think. I think this is where those 'short' shoulder ball ends are recommended. Do you have something under the steering racks that would raise them up higher than a stock setup? I usually put the 'stud' nut on backwards, so that the bearing rests on the chassis, or on a thin washer, that should sit as low as stock system. I know some version of the houge steering are 'fat' on the tie link, but then tapers down for the steering link. later versions and world versions are all at the same lower level.

The first versions of the Houge steering were "fat" all the way down the center link (as you stated). That was the version I have. The post he is quoting is almost 3 years old I just shaved down the steering in that raised area and have been running it ever since. It has held up to my driving/racing and never skipped a beat.

Hmm...that wasnt obvious that it was that old.

Its fine, that was great advice either way

Take the short nut off the 8/32 main screws, pull the bellcranks out and then remove the plastic nut/bearing sleeve. Put the bellcranks over the 8/32 screws then install the nut/sleevecombo piece upside down, so that the part that acted as a shoulder on the bottom now acts a the nut on the top. Clearance solved-