RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I had terrible luck with the "Thunder Tiger" SC10 team kit, I ended up selling it; spent more time in the shop then it did on the track .

Went traxxas slash 4X4 for 2 seasons, beat on it like it was an old associated , held up great.

This year I'm on the SC10 4X4 which was actually given to me by my race club, and after testing I was amazed of how tough it's been. It's a bit tricky to work on but you get the hang of it, and it knocked 3 seconds off my lap times!

And it's got a cool 6-gear style top shaft slipper diff that controls the 2 stealth trannies!

It's cool to roll AE colors again weekly.

One trick that I do to my racing RC cars is to remove the inner shield from the bearings (grease flushed of course and lubed with a light quality oil). The reason is less resistance on the balls and race of the bearing. If you do this you need to keep on top of your maintenance, that you should do anyway! I do this trick with my sons racing MX bikes as well, wheels spin with much less resistance! NOTICE only the INNER shield is removed! You still need to keep dust out with the outer shield!




Well.... Reggie said it's better, so it had to be done!

It is! J Concepts Hazard in +3 now (or the DE Borrego +3)



My 22SCT is better though- Miles gave the SC10FT up in favor for the 22SCT too

Charlie don't surf wrote:It is! J Concepts Hazard in +3 now (or the DE Borrego +3)



My 22SCT is better though- Miles gave the SC10FT up in favor for the 22SCT too

That old SC10FT has been a reliable blast for me. I would eventually like to have a 22sct and 22t though to go with my 22 buggy. I did toss a new body on it and rebuild all the shocks and buy some new jconcepts premounts. Here is a pic of my body.

Any of you guys have a good setup for a very loose, dusty, hardpack, bumpy outdoor track? I'm getting very poor traction with stock settings, 3oz weights behind battery under foam, and M3 Holeshots. I would be very happy to get some good advice! Ordered some 3D's in green compound but I'm sure this will only help a little!

Holeshots are hardpack/dusty tire, 3D's are an intermediate Bar tire, so they're bacically a hardpack high bite tire but normally used when there is dust, or a tad of fluff on the surface..but they're def not a loose track tire.

Where is your truck bad? Acceleration and braking, corner entry and exit (tight in then loose off) or just wallows everywhere? Twitchy? Skatey like its on the track instead of in the track? Same tires front and rear, settings on the shocks and basics?

Reg, the truck is skaty as best I can describe. Very loose on the rear with great steering! Twitchy how I like it, but no rear traction! Right now I'm using M2 Bowfighters on the front with every second row of knobs removed and that seemed to help! I'm going to use oem HARD tires when my extra 12mm hex wheels come in! My settings are all box stock FTSC10, with big bore shocks set up as per insert that came with them. Oh I did go down one spring rate front and rear to help with traction! Many members have tried all manner of tires and compounds at the track, and have found the Holeshots to be the best! I read somewhere that 3d's are like the Holeshot but better so I thought I would give them a try. No one here has used them yet! Don't get me wrong, I won both days with the truck but would like more rear traction!

Longest wheelbase possible, I assume you already performed the rear camberlink mod. I "think" the rear grip issue with the SC10 is in the ratio of speed of laterial weight transfer from the camberlink position and the distance of the total tire in relation to the camberlink position on the hub. The tire transitions very rapidly from slightly neg to grossly positive in a turn. Slowing that is the key-

Reg, whats the camber link mod?

Same as the original 03' rear camber link plate, it's basically removing 2.5mm in ball stud height from the inboard side.

However.... it really just raises the roll center, and increases the speed of transition. I did it to the truck that we had, then I reduced it further, then I raised it then... but the only thing that will make a difference it to be able to raise both so that the entire link is higher. Old style Trinity hubs can do this, or racers edge hubs.

Body type and mounting is huge on shortcourse trucks too- what are you running and pics of the mounting?

I'm going to use the Proline Tundra flow, I will post pics later and thanks again for the advice!

Here are the pictures I finally uploaded my from my phone! The Tundra was painted by VintageAE!

love the old school look!

not sure if you're ever considered integy for an upper front bulkhead? helped when I snapped a chassis:

http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=3485&p_catid=70#.Ukr6JD8piSE


Also, I'm sure you've seen that AE copied you :

http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_and_trucks/SC10/Race-Spec/

I love thier tundra body more than the pro-line, BUT, for a shell for $65 is waaaaay out there.

LOL I got an AE Tundra on order, don't mind paying the extra because I hate painting! Thanks for the heads up!

That Ironman Tundra looks real good!!! But did anyone notice that sexy Losi posted by Reg? I love my XXXSCT but would love to run a newer Losi. But some of the guys were not liking it at first then I deployed. I know the Durango's were starting to get popular at the local track. I went to the track for the first time and was struggling with my SCT so I just borrowed my buddies SC10 FT. Now I swear Losi shocks are the best but this SC10 was dialed. First time at the track and first time back on offroad in many many years and I checked out. Went back a 2nd week and got my SCT a little better...third week I found out my Castle was running on 1C and when I put it back to 2C, it was too late to mess with it. Stole the SC10 again and checked out. Sad thing is my buddy sold that truck. I would've bought it, it was that good!