JRX2 5-link racer build

[KV78]

Nice car!!! I put the same RPM front arms on my JRXT and they rub the chassis a bit. Did your? If so, how did you fix it? Sand the arm a little or groove the chassis? Also I have all brand new Thorpe gear to put in. Anything special that i should know about them? What kind of gear lube did you use? Thanks, Kenneth

[slow_jun]

i assume that the thorp diff includes the top shaft and the center differential with the metal side halves ( all metal) and nylon top shaft?

similar to this.



but if you are using the stock metal top shaft, it is not advisable as this will eat up your gears, metal to metal is not a good combination , as per previous experience. As you can see here that the top shaft is Nylon and the center diff gear is metal. the diff halves are still the stock one as i have yet to install my 5100 diff gear set when it arrives.

as for the grease, a tamiya grease is good.

[aconsola]

I had no problem running the metal top gear with the thorp metal differential gears in my 17.5t powered vintage racer. This truck went through 2 long race weekends at the VONATS with no problems this way.

[slow_jun]

mine went bad, thats why i used the thorp top shaft just to be safe. well that just my experience and does not apply to all.

goodluck.

[RCveteran]

Nice car!!! I put the same RPM front arms on my JRXT and they rub the chassis a bit. Did your? If so, how did you fix it? Sand the arm a little or groove the chassis? Also I have all brand new Thorpe gear to put in. Anything special that i should know about them? What kind of gear lube did you use? Thanks, Kenneth

Yes, same problem, careful sanding with dremel on RPM arms was necessary. I've had this issue on other cars as well and sort of consider it standard procedure at this point.

[fredswain]

What kind of effect on handling does the swept back front arms have? I am running Andy's Ultima front arms on the car right now and they are basically just a prettier stock arm design.

[KV78]

i assume that the thorp diff includes the top shaft and the center differential with the metal side halves ( all metal) and nylon top shaft?

similar to this.



but if you are using the stock metal top shaft, it is not advisable as this will eat up your gears, metal to metal is not a good combination , as per previous experience. As you can see here that the top shaft is Nylon and the center diff gear is metal. the diff halves are still the stock one as i have yet to install my 5100 diff gear set when it arrives.

as for the grease, a tamiya grease is good.

Yes I also have the top nylon gear. Thanks for looking out though and thanks fro the advice!

[KV78]

Nice car!!! I put the same RPM front arms on my JRXT and they rub the chassis a bit. Did your? If so, how did you fix it? Sand the arm a little or groove the chassis? Also I have all brand new Thorpe gear to put in. Anything special that i should know about them? What kind of gear lube did you use? Thanks, Kenneth

Yes, same problem, careful sanding with dremel on RPM arms was necessary. I've had this issue on other cars as well and sort of consider it standard procedure at this point.

Guess I will have to do a little sanding when I get home from work then. Thanks man

[fredswain]

I got my 5 links parts in so that is getting rebuilt but now the search is on for the lower shock mounts that go around the bottom link. This may prove tough. I do lots of casting and if I ever find one, I'm making a mold of it so I can have an endless supply of them. Copying them is easy. Finding them is hard. I can't wait to drive a 5 link again.

I did find a parts car for $30. I needed several parts and it seemed easiest to just buy an old car if cheap enough. Score! It has the RPM truck wide front arms so now I am doing a XX hub and axle front conversion. It also has a slipper clutch which I lacked. It's got a nice set of H-arms and a near perfect Pro-SE chassis but that I already have. I have enough parts to build most of another car now. I may just have to build a street car for my unused J-Car JRX2 direct drive that I've had sitting around for years. Now that could be fun!

[jwscab]

Like injection molding?

[RCveteran]

If you can make copies I am sure many here would donate to the cause, details please?

[fredswain]

I do lots of resin casting for my other hobbies. There are many different resins out there and I use one particular one sometimes that is pretty much equal to abs plastic in strength but doesn't require hot injection molding equipment or expensive metal molds. I can't pop them out in a minute though so that is the tradeoff. I use a silicone based rubber mold. Since I make the molds, I can make them any shape that I want. I can add material in areas that I think need it. If an exact copy in shape and size has any weaknesses, I can modify it a bit to fix the problem. The material is good to 6500 psi tensile and 7500 psi compression so it's durability shouldn't be a problem. Due to it's strength each one has to sit in the mold for 16 hours to cure. For this one I may just make a master of my own design out of styrene and then make a mold of it. It may be just as fast to design my own replacement.

I can make a mold in an evening or 2. I'd probably just make a mold for a single initial part to test it and then if it works out well I could make a better mold so I could make a half dozen or so at a time. I can probably reproduce most parts if need be. It just takes time. I need an original to copy though which is why I've been hunting for my needed parts as opposed to just making new ones. I don't have them to copy. The nice thing about resin casting is that it's fairly cheap and anyone can do it at home.

[License2iLL]

It's definitly nose up and the rear seems to smack easy so say on the small double unless I hit just right it seemed the rear woudl smack off the jump and actually send the car tumbling, on the bigger more launch friendly jumps definitly nose up.
As a side, I installed the kit for a XX A-3111 dual disc slipper, fit right onto my single slipper shaft so now spurs are a piece of cake.

DSCF4282.JPG

Awesome build had to revive this thread! How's it working out for you?

Why is the dual disc slipper better for the spurs? I'm trying to choose a slipper myself so recommends are appreciated.

Fred did u make any parts btw?

[losiXXXman]

I think the veteran sold that car to help finance other projects. Is/Was a good build though! I hope whoever it is it is still running... or maybe racing on a shelf - that's be good too.

[dldiaz]

Update for this model:

I have not really changed the chassis from the way RCveteran built it.
The model runs great! Handles very well, and has been very reliable.

Current setup:
Losi XX 5-spoke rear wheels and RC10B3 (Thunder Tiger) fronts,
- with ProLine Dirt Hawg tires ((I wish the matching 5-spokes fit on the front)).
Losi LOSB0819 High-Torque servo, with machined alloy (RC10-style) mounts.
Novak Club Sensored 17.5T Brushless System.
Venom 5400mAh LiPo battery.
and Futaba 2.4 GHz Rx/Tx.