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JosephS wrote: ↑Fri Sep 29, 2023 5:00 pm

JoeP wrote: ↑Fri Sep 29, 2023 3:43 pm Sort of a random question but do you think it's necessary to be careful about keeping screws and parts in specific groups as I break this down? I've been keeping everything together as far as rear left, rear right, front left, front right etc. But now I just kind of wanted to throw everything into simple green and I was wondering if putting everything back together will be a nightmare if I don't keep everything organized. Also, I'm getting the brand new hardware set anyway so I feel like I will have to find each screw accordingly

You'll be fine. there aren't that many screws, you'll just want to make sure you sort them by size. Be sure to wash and dry them promptly. They can rust quickly. I've had that happen.

Gotcha. Honestly I think I am just going to go with all brand new ones from my KNK kit and just keep these originals for backup. As long as the build instructions mention screw size, Im sure itll be easy to grab the right ones

For the most part, it's really whether the screw seems too long or too short for a location. If you take your time, each screw length makes sense. A tricky thing to watch is the external diff gear nut on the gearbox. That is a 5-40 thread nut, not a 4-40 or a 6-32 nut. Don't force a 4-40 nut onto that threaded shaft.

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Fri Sep 29, 2023 5:38 pm For the most part, it's really whether the screw seems too long or too short for a location. If you take your time, each screw length makes sense. A tricky thing to watch is the external diff gear nut on the gearbox. That is a 5-40 thread nut, not a 4-40 or a 6-32 nut. Don't force a 4-40 nut onto that threaded shaft.

Noted. Still waiting on my delivery for those tiny hex drivers and then I can continue with the transmission and shock breakdown. I currently have all of the plastic soaking in water and a bit of simple green and everything else cleaned up. Once I have everything broken down I'll take inventory and figure out which new parts I need.

So I'm almost done breaking down the transmission, still waiting for an additional hex driver to come. First, I wanted to ask if you think it would be a good idea to break this down 100%, even taking the bearings (bushings?) Out from each individual gear. I do have the small .9 mm hex to do that. I figured since I've gone this far I may as well take it down to every individual part. Also, is there something you recommend to clean this stuff? It has a lot of gunked up old grease. Would simple green be enough and then WD40 to get moisture out?

Speaking of WD-40 I've been using it to clean pretty much all of the hardware. Any concerns there?

Use Simple Green Pro HD (the purple one). Regular Simple Green will etch and discolor the aluminum pieces.

Dish soap and a toothbrush works pretty good as well.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Sun Oct 01, 2023 7:31 pm Use Simple Green Pro HD (the purple one). Regular Simple Green will etch and discolor the aluminum pieces.

Dish soap and a toothbrush works pretty good as well.

Oh wow, I just used regular Simple Green today on the body

I didn't know it messed up aluminum. Thanks for the heads up

JoeP wrote: ↑Sun Oct 01, 2023 7:56 pm I didn't know it messed up aluminum. Thanks for the heads up

A quick on and off is probably okay. But soaking or use in an ultrasonic is different.

A friend of mine put his motorcycle carburetors in an ultrasonic with regular Simple Green. It turned them dark grey.

Have you looked into the outdrive bearing mod? For an RC10 runner with a 6 gear trans, it seems like a must do to me. The original bearing setup with the outdrives seems like it gets sloppy/floppy and I worry about the outdrives then chewing up the idler gears.

I do the mod just by adding the bearings and then one 2-56 screw and washer to keep the left side bearing in place. On the right side the motor plate will keep the bearing from walking out.
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=44362&sid=4bfa734d666cf3ba30214f43f817388b

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?p=541916&hilit=outdrive#p541916
. . .
My preference is for these outdrive bearings.
https://www.associatedelectrics.com/factoryteam/parts/details/6903-ASC6903-ft_bearings_3_8_x_5_8_in_ptfe_seal/

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Mon Oct 02, 2023 9:00 am Have you looked into the outdrive bearing mod? For an RC10 runner with a 6 gear trans, it seems like a must do to me. The original bearing setup with the outdrives seems like it gets sloppy/floppy and I worry about the outdrives then chewing up the idler gears.

I do the mod just by adding the bearings and then one 2-56 screw and washer to keep the left side bearing in place. On the right side the motor plate will keep the bearing from walking out.
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=44362&sid=4bfa734d666cf3ba30214f43f817388b

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?p=541916&hilit=outdrive#p541916
.
PXL_20231002_125329460.jpg
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PXL_20231002_125445719~2.jpg
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My preference is for these outdrive bearings.
https://www.associatedelectrics.com/factoryteam/parts/details/6903-ASC6903-ft_bearings_3_8_x_5_8_in_ptfe_seal/

No, I hadn't heard of this but it seems straightforward enough. Since I already have this all apart, I guess it makes sense to do it. Thanks for the info. I'll read up on it

Just wanted to drop a quick update. This is the current state of things, pretty much everything is broken down except for a few of the transmission pieces that are a bit stuck. Once I get all of that separated and cleaned I will begin the rebuild process. I'm probably going to need to pick up a few of those snap ring clips because a few of them shot across my garage and I am never finding them again. Seems like the KNK hardware kit does not come with any. Also I need to figure out if I need to get new bearings or if these old ones are salvageable with some cleaning and re lubing. Other than that it seems like the rear springs are mismatched so I may just get new ones. I guess I'll know more about what needs to be replaced once I start the rebuild. I know for sure I need to order one of the nylon pieces that is cracked

Looking good!

Are your bearings shielded rather than rubber sealed? If they are shielded then, after a good cleaning, if the bearings spin free and are still tight, you are good to go. I have original AE bearing kits in a couple of my runner cars and they have held up amazingly well over the years. By contrast, I've had to replace several of my modern cheaper bearings as they just don't seem to last very long.
Anyway, if yours are metal shielded rather than rubber sealed, it's possible they are originals and just need to be cleaned and lubed. I use motor cleaner and a Trinity micro oiler after the bearings have fully dried.

Thanks for the updates.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Wed Oct 04, 2023 12:35 pm Looking good!

Are your bearings shielded rather than rubber sealed? If they are shielded then, after a good cleaning, if the bearings spin free and are still tight, you are good to go. I have original AE bearing kits in a couple of my runner cars and they have held up amazingly well over the years. By contrast, I've had to replace several of my modern cheaper bearings as they just don't seem to last very long.
Anyway, if yours are metal shielded rather than rubber sealed, it's possible they are originals and just need to be cleaned and lubed. I use motor cleaner and a Trinity micro oiler after the bearings have fully dried.

Thanks for the updates.

They do not appear to have any sort of rubber seal. So based on your comment, I guess how I should be good cleaning and relubing.

I soak used bearings in lighter fluid or acetone (if they are really nasty), then spray them with carburetor cleaner and an RPM Bearing Blaster, then lube them with Lucas fishing reel oil (any light oil will do).

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Thu Oct 05, 2023 3:46 pm I soak used bearings in lighter fluid or acetone (if they are really nasty), then spray them with carburetor cleaner and an RPM Bearing Blaster, then lube them with Lucas fishing reel oil (any light oil will do).

Is there something specific about bearings that causes you to use those solvents versus a more general degreaser? I've been using simple green for everything. I guess maybe there's a concern with getting water inside?

They break down and dissolve dried oil and grease better than common cleaners.