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Here is a shot of is now got it to a rolling state with my old towers unsure what i want to do for towers yet need to get my motor plate and rear bumper annoed or powder coated yet but its getting there and i am gonna listen to yall and leave the shorty up front or at least more centered

Ok well i orderd rc carbon works front rpm worlds clone and an associated worlds style rear tower and two carbon battery straps im really starting to dig this build! I still need to have my motor plate and rear bumper annodized blue and im going to get a new rere worlds gear cover to clear the longer gen 2 slipper shaft... Ok here is where i am i would like some advice on shocks and shock piston/oil and springs i am going to put new threaded body v2 bottom loading shocks would you guys prefer to use 1.32 or 1.18 rears? and 1.02 fronts and would you run any down travel limiters in the fronts? And what would you guys start out with for pistons oil and springs.. I am going to run a shorty mounted with the front mount in the factory front mount location soo basicly center'd on the chassis i will probly run a 21.5 maybe a 17.5 and i am going to mount the esc on a mount off the rear tower... Thanks again for all te help guys!

Anyone?

I like this build! And how you tide the rear bulkhead to the chassis. On the gear cover end I like the clear b4 / t4 gear covers that came stock. You have to mark and drill / tap a new lower hole but since you are re anodizing it shouldn't matter. If you like I could make a receiver mount to bolt to the rear shock tower . I did my original graphite as a woin ride but since my chassis was clean I just did the b4 hubs and used b4 wheels. My favorite rc10s are the graphites. Nice build!

glastornjet73 wrote:Anyone?

To start (this is my base set up), 30 wgt oil, #2 pistons all around. You may end up 35 front, and #1 pistons in the rear with the 30. Lay the tops in and bottoms out (on the shocks) both front and rear. Use green rear springs & softest front you can get.

I never did get my OIN to work the way I wanted it, the CE worked so much better that I abandoned the OIN.

Well its been a good long while since i have posted any update but i think i can call this one complete i dont think there is anything else i want to or can do to this car lol

Buddy this is an awesome build well done, a lot of hard work and patience to get to this stage.

Can I ask a 'few' questions..:

- Is that a VTS slipper? - if so, is it compatible with standard stealth topshaft, i.e. does it just fit straight on?

- What are those wide rear hexes you are using?

- Where can i find a front suspension brace like one you have over the suspension pins, and do i need longer pins?.

Thank you, N

looks like an RDRP B5 slipper

https://www.amainhobbies.com/revolution-design-b6-b5-vts-slipper-kit-rdrp0254/p413824

zzzubbb wrote:Buddy this is an awesome build well done, a lot of hard work and patience to get to this stage.

Can I ask a 'few' questions..:

- Is that a VTS slipper? - if so, is it compatible with standard stealth topshaft, i.e. does it just fit straight on?

- What are those wide rear hexes you are using?

- Where can i find a front suspension brace like one you have over the suspension pins, and do i need longer pins?.

Thank you, N

Abailey21 is correct it is an rdrp b5/6 vts slipper but the regular associated vts slipper will work also but you have too use a rc10b/t4 top shaft

The wider rear hexes i believe are sc10 aluminum clamping hexes with the regular b/t4 axles and conical washers behind them but i had too file some of the back of the hex off im sorry i dont remember exactly what i used but i had TONS of time trying too figure out what parts too use too make it as wide as i possably could with b4.2 12mm rear wheels and i bought and tried a lot of diffrent thing untill i finallay found this combo

The front suspension brase does not actually have the pins through it its actually just a standard rc10t/t2/gt peice it usually goes behind the front part of the arm between the arm and the bulkhead but the rpm arms are a touch narrower than the truck arms soo it has too go on the outside of the rpm or klein arms hope that helps thanks for the nice words on the build also