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Re: 1300GT's build.

Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 3:57 pm
by orangemazda
Thats a really good idea! I've got a few old 6-gears I'm going to assemble and I'll be using your mod.

You said 2.55mm wide on the brass ring? Sorry to sound dumb but what is 2.55mm in inches? You had me at 3/8 inside diameter but lost me when you went to mm! :lol:

Also, where did you find the perfect diameter brass tubing?

1300GT wrote:Just finished the RCCA outdrive mod. I thought I'd post some photos for anyone who isn't sure about how it's done. I've already fitted the flanged bearings and circlips in the outdrive gears. Don't fit the unflanged bearings. The outdrive hole in each of the gearbox halves is drilled out to 1/2 an inch. The brass rings have an inner diameter of 3/8 of an inch and slide over the outdrives and stop the outdrive gears from floating sideways. You only want them wide enough to let the 3/8 by 5/8 outdrive bearing seat properly and allow a minimal amount of sideways clearance. The 2/56 screw in the left gearbox half stops the outdrive bearing from working loose. The right hand bearing is held in by the motor plate. Any questions just ask.
SG2.jpg
Brass rings fitted.
SG3.jpg
Gearbox halves together. Note the bored out outdrive hole to clear the brass ring.
SG4.jpg
2/56 screw and washer fitted.
SG5.jpg
I'll be adding a Jammin Jay diff assembly soon.

Re: 1300GT's build.

Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 6:07 pm
by SnoopMaxx
orangemazda wrote:That's a really good idea! I've got a few old 6-gears I'm going to assemble and I'll be using your mod.

You said 2.55mm wide on the brass ring? Sorry to sound dumb but what is 2.55mm in inches? You had me at 3/8 inside diameter but lost me when you went to mm! :lol:

Also, where did you find the perfect diameter brass tubing?
The correct width is actually 3,55mm or 0,1398"

1" = 25,4mm

I made my spacers from round stock alloy
turned the outside down and bored it out

Re: 1300GT's build.

Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 6:17 pm
by clm
I have been thinking... which is dangerous by the way!... But why not shorten the shaft the bearing rides on? There are plenty of threads inside it for the screw that secures the bearing... Lopping off a bearing width of the shaft seems simpler then making a spacer.

Chris

Re: 1300GT's build.

Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 7:00 pm
by SnoopMaxx
You need the spacer to hold the new outer bearing in place so it will stay at the edge of the housing
the felt gasket hole is 5mm deep and the bearing is only 4mm wide

Re: 1300GT's build.

Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2013 7:30 pm
by clm
I could see a spacer if the bearing was threatening to fall inside the case, or to keep the out drive from sliding outwards due to no catch. I am just trying to simplify the setup I guess, the flanged bearing is held by the circlip but the standard shaft allows the bearing to slide in and out a bearings width due to the length of the shaft.

With the shaft cut down the bearing should not be able to slide in and out.

The outer bearing fits into the dust recession, it can't slide all the way in due to the molding on the transmission, it however could slide out which a simple screw could prevent..

Any cut spacer to my knowledge is more for preventing the outward movement of the outdrive then the outer bearing from falling out.

Chris

Re: 1300GT's build.

Posted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 2:29 am
by 1300GT
Okay. Just to clarify things.
  • Orangemazda, 2.55mm = .100". I bought the brass tubing from the K&S stand at a hobby shop. The stock number is #136. It's 13/32 outer diameter with a wall thickness of .014". Take an outdrive with you to make sure that it fits inside the tubing.
  • SnoopMax, I rechecked the brass ring width and mine are 2.55mm. I am using outdrive bearings that are 10/51 or .196" or 5mm wide. If you are using 5/32 wide bearings that would account for the 3.55mm width of yours.
  • Chris, the brass ring does exactly that. It stops the outdrive from moving outwards because it butts up against the inner part of the outdrive bearing. I didn't use the button head screws inside the outdrives.
I hope this helps.

Re: 1300GT's build.

Posted: Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:26 am
by SnoopMaxx
Ohh yeah that explains the difference
Didn't know you used a wider bearing

Re: 1300GT's build.

Posted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:30 pm
by orangemazda
Your car really turned out awesome!

Hey, I also used your transmission build method...it worked out awesome! Thanks.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=33597&p=378097#p378097

Re: 1300GT's build.

Posted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:53 pm
by vintage AE
Great job man, it turned out really well!

Re: 1300GT's build.

Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 9:47 am
by 1300GT
orangemazda wrote:Your car really turned out awesome!

Hey, I also used your transmission build method...it worked out awesome! Thanks.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=33597&p=378097#p378097
I'm glad it worked out for you. The transmission mod came from Radio Control Car Action mag. I only borrowed it. :mrgreen:
vintage AE wrote:Great job man, it turned out really well!
Thanks, I'm happy at how well it turned out.

Re: 1300GT's build.

Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 7:37 pm
by pastimesteve
Beautiful buggy and so happy to see some running shots. You did an amazing job on that body and I love the black wheels.

Steve

Re: 1300GT's build.

Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 7:53 pm
by uniquenamehere
Nice build... really like the action pictures as well!

Re: 1300GT's build.

Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 9:59 am
by 1300GT
Thanks fellas. Glad you like it. Here's the best action shot of it yet.
Classic.jpg
This is the photo that was entered in the Golden Years RC Museum competition.

Re: 1300GT's build.

Posted: Sun May 23, 2021 1:15 am
by FarmerDowns
Nice build! I just bought the same kit today..used yes.. with white plastics.. And needed alot of the info you post ...parts. any tips.. or maybe I have parts.

Re: 1300GT's build.

Posted: Sun May 23, 2021 3:15 am
by RC10th
But does he still run it?