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gomachv wrote:Fords new Coyote 5.0 is the way id roll

The only thing I don't like about that motor is the price...GT40 crate engines are pretty cheap nowadays...Kinda like the ZZ4 350...

REMJ666 wrote:

JK Racing wrote:If you used an RPM "worlds" front tower, you probably wouldnt need to route the holes. The shocks mount out wider than a truck tower.

Here is a cut front truck tower (G10) and RPM style tower (CF)

You wouldn't happen to have one in G10 would ya ????

Can you measure for me the two top holes ??? I need you to measure from center of the hole to center of the hole on that carbon RPM clone...Purdy please Or Gomach or Scr8p if you have one of those towers...That just might be the ticket and no chopping other then the posts needed...

I dont have that tower anymore...or the car bolted to it. I'm sure someone will have it to measure, the original RPM one was G10.

Can count the twill weave in the carbon fiber to get an estimated measurement.

Each "square" is 2mm.

Still playing sand the chassis...Started with 60 grit and I am up to 200 grit...It is cleaning up well...Will work my way up to 2000 grit and then seal it with semi gloss clear...So I just got in some RPM black spring cups and white 4-40 ball cups...Waiting on the front RPM white bumper and the re re shock kit parts kit for the bushings...The 2 rear shocks have no bushings...Finishing the work on the chassis and getting those few parts and it will be ready to put back together...I cleaned up the rear bulkhead but it didn't turn out as nice as the other plastic parts...Oh well you win some you lose some...

Looks nice!!

What did you use to get the battery cup off with? Mine is on there with something fierce and I'm nervous to destroy the chassis taking it off.

I had originally decided to keep it on but in looking I think I may have to take it off and place it to fit the battery not a battery to fit the placement.

So was mine...If you look close at the chassis you can see where the battery cup was...The blemish in the middle...He scuffed it and tried to permanently mount the battery cup...By the time I get to 2000 grit paper that should be all cleaned up...If not the new battery cup will cover what little bit is left...I used a flat head screw driver and slowly tried to separate the battery cup from the chassis...That way I could tell if it was double sided tape or not...When you start to separate the battery cup make sure you are rubbing the cup and not the chassis with whatever you use to pry it off...Don't gouge the chassis...Even if you have to destroy the cup they are making them brand new again...If it is double sided tape I soaked it with Goo Gone and the residue came off...Then you can sand the chassis if you want to or not...Sanding the chassis does take time so don't be in a big hurry...This is the first time I have done one of these chassis and I think I read somewhere that when you get the sanding done and clear it you have to wait for the clear to fully dry before you can sand it...And that takes a couple days...That will allow you to work on everything else and finish chasing parts...I hope this helps ya...

Thanks for the tips.

I was working the other way, close to the chassis. I wasn't sure how well the goo would come off afterwards so I was trying to get it all off together. I may try again. My chassis is in very good shape on the deck of it. Sanding would only be a cosmetic if I did any sanding.

Update...Waiting on stuff to finish it up...Making a trip to my LHS tomorrow and the rest of the stuff should be here Friday from Tower...

So I am looking for a way to mount the wheels...I look at the instructions and the wheel knock offs are missing...Advertised as a complete kit and it isn't

I have some direct fit monster truck wheels with offset for buggy arms for that if you don't want to run those funny nuts

Otherwise your stuck looking for those shoulder nuts

I'll let you know what happens...I just sent the seller a message...Hopefully he will follow up with me about this

the proline kit doesn't use those shanked nuts. a standard 8-32 nut will work on the back sice the wheels are direct fit. the front axles that come with the kit should be a standard tamiya axle nut. i would like to confirm that for you but i literally threw mine away last week..... with the knockoffs.

I'll take a picture of the wheel with nut and the instructions...Just give me 15 mins...

Inside that wheel is a 8-32 narrow locknut and it won't even sit flat...And the pic of the instructions showing the wheel knock offs...