Went to The Track and came home with this

Post by **REMJ666** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:37 pm

Was only supposed to pick up a couple parts then I spotted it

and well...You all know how it ends

When I am ready to tear it apart and clean it up I will be asking a lot of questions...So be ready...First question will be how to clean the chassis up without ruining it...Can it be sanded ?????

Post by **THUNDERSTRIKE1** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:46 pm

Supposed to be a buggy frontend on it.It was converted for the 1991 worlds RPM CONVERSION.But thats still a sweet find.If was me id clean up the front chassis area curve the corners a bit.Very light sanding and clearcoat can go a long ways to bling it back out.don

Post by **REMJ666** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:57 pm

Thanks Don...I am just happy as hell that I finally found something with a coolness factor to match some of the other cars people have been stumbling across for once...I am very happy about this find...The person who owned it thought it was just an out to date piece of junk rc10...Not kidding...But of course I didn't come home with the parts that I was supposed to get

What grit of paper should I use and I saw someone had polished a fiberglass chassis ??? Can this one be sanded and polished also ????

Post by **THUNDERSTRIKE1** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 2:29 am

CHECK WITH SCR8P he can tell u better than me.don

Post by **Lonestar** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 3:29 am

Nice find!!!

I've done sanding/clearcoating on CWF before, it becomes VERY shiny.

you need to sand like first 200 400 800 1000 2000 - then I used tamiya clearcoat. I have a particular technique for it, I spray from VERY close and I let the liquid "spread" by itself, it's weird, it feels like "auto-tensing" fluid (not sure if this is the right word, correct me if I'm wrong). Then sand again with 1000 or 2000 then another layer of clearcoat. The big holes in the CWF won't fill up fully, but it still looks way better than anything not restored!

you can still spot gouges in the trailing end... these will never fully fill up. But the rest looks great I think!

Kindly note that the CWF AE used for their graphite cars wasn't shiny in any way, though

Paul

Post by **marlo** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 5:57 am

Nice find! To get light scratches out, without any type of water sanding, You can try a polishing compound like Mothers aluminum polish, I've had positive results with it in the past.

Post by **scr8p** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 7:57 am

you can sand on a stock ae graphite chassis pretty hard without any issues. i never messed with polishing them afterwards, just hit them with a coat of sealer.

one thing you can do is scuff the chassis up, then using a paint brush, build up the deep scratches with clear until they are higher than the chassis. let it dry and then block sand the areas flat. you may still see the deep scratches, but you won't feel them. then go about repairing the light scuffs and scratches once that's done.

Post by **REMJ666** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 8:02 am

Gonna hit Advanced today and get some sand paper and a can of clear...Will also pick up the Mothers polishing compound to try first...Marlo do you have any pics of the cars you used the compound on ???? Lonestar...Thanks for the advise...I think the chassis on your car looks very good...I wouldn't expect to be able to get all the scratches out without compromising the strength of the chassis...But getting it back to 50% is still better then not doing anything to it...I guess I should ask scr8p if I should peroxide the RPM parts ?????

Post by **REMJ666** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 8:15 am

scr8p wrote:you can sand on a stock ae graphite chassis pretty hard without any issues. i never messed with polishing them afterwards, just hit them with a coat of sealer.

one thing you can do is scuff the chassis up, then using a paint brush, build up the deep scratches with clear until they are higher than the chassis. let it dry and then block sand the areas flat. you may still see the deep scratches, but you won't feel them. then go about repairing the light scuffs and scratches once that's done.

Glad to hear that it will hold up to some sanding abuse...My fear is that I will end up with a wavy chassis so I will definitely get a wood block that is wider and wrap the paper around it before I start sanding...Nice flat surface with even pressure and I should be good to go...

Post by **RC104ever** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 9:48 am

I've had some success with epoxy in the deep sections. You can sand it too but then it isn't shiny. Hadn't thought of the clear coat, so I will try that.

Post by **JK Racing** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 10:16 am

put a nice white RPM truck bumper on that front end, it will cover up the old buggy mount holes really nice.

Post by **REMJ666** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 10:51 am

RC104ever wrote:I've had some success with epoxy in the deep sections. You can sand it too but then it isn't shiny. Hadn't thought of the clear coat, so I will try that.

I have seen someone else mention that and also CA glue...

Post by **REMJ666** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 10:54 am

JK Racing wrote:put a nice white RPM truck bumper on that front end, it will cover up the old buggy mount holes really nice.

I am already thinking of other RPM parts to possibly add...When that time comes I will see if you have one to sell because I will need one

Post by **REMJ666** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 6:27 pm

Glad that this chassis is as thick as it is or it might not have made it racing all those yrs...Had to break out the archaeology tools to dig the dirt out of the screw heads...Still working on the last two that hold the motor guard on...This person was the king of double sided tape...At first when I noticed there was no screws holding the battery cup in I got really scared...First thought was that this person glued the cup to the chassis and after using a pry bar I saw it was double sided tape...Then I started breathing again...So the soaking with GOO GONE begins...And to soak all the plastic parts in Simple Green....