Think Outside the Boxart, Old is Newdillac, Worldinger Build

[sbcnyc]

this IS the car ive been melting over, made me go on an ebay binge, and sign up for rc10talk.... hope to get some info...

wondering if theres any updates as to how the buggy handles track wise? I have some ideas brewing over the front end setup used on this build, far as inboarding the nose tubes to hug the nose better, is there much flex in the front plate? i just dont trust the shocktower to take all the abuse, and the angle seems it would just rotate the side chassis screws loose? also, i have an older tub gt im sacrificing the front end to my build, along with a gold plate front currently in the mail, is there a length difference in the nose plates themselves when mounted to the chassis aside from the sets of bellcrank holes? also the front shocktower you ended up using, major differences vs the truck tower? or just a tad shorter to fit the length of shock? too inboard of an angle with the truck tower?

also, using the truck rear rpm arms, im trying to figure out which arm blocks have enough meat on them but at the same time give me room to move them inboard to notch to fit a t2 transmission between, also the degrees of toe/antisquat i should shoot for... i have t2 blocks, b3/t3 blocks on the way but no stock rc10 blocks and well... no chassis (fingers crossed on a beat ebay pre stealth), im sure its gonna make more sense when its all in front of me but i was wondering what other more available options with minor fitting would work, key is im trying to incorperate gas truck suspension parts due to the ease of replacement stuff ,hence the t2 trans and bulkhead, i have a horde of gt stuff, if need be, i will modify rpm arms 6mm in as you did, ill just make a few sets as spares, also, i have a t2 rear shocktower on the way that im going mock up to get an idea of how much lower it will be mounted... is the width from the mount ears too wide for a buggy if i lower it?

and finally, what diameter copper tubing did you use to build the cvd's?


frankenbrucky rc10.. i cant waiiiiiiiiit to start fabbing this thing up

[Y'ernat Al]

this IS the car ive been melting over, made me go on an ebay binge,

Sorry about that.

and sign up for rc10talk....

You're welcome

hope to get some info...

Hope I can help.

wondering if theres any updates as to how the buggy handles track wise?

Never put it on a track (yet) I ran it around a few parks around my neiborhood. I have a couple other cars I spend time tuning for the track.

is there much flex in the front plate? i just dont trust the shocktower to take all the abuse, and the angle seems it would just rotate the side chassis screws loose?

None really. The FRP actually acts like a bit of a damper. I took a couple ok hits. But I generally try to avoid hitting stuff with it.

also, i have an older tub gt im sacrificing the front end to my build, along with a gold plate front currently in the mail, is there a length difference in the nose plates themselves when mounted to the chassis aside from the sets of bellcrank holes?

Let us know when the mailman comes. Maybe it comes down to where the different bulkheads screw in?

also the front shocktower you ended up using, major differences vs the truck tower? or just a tad shorter to fit the length of shock? too inboard of an angle with the truck tower?

Yes. The single most important thing in making buggies like this (that actually work, and keep you away from shock limiter hell) is to be able to make your own shock towers. It's really pretty easy after you do one or two.

im trying to incorperate gas truck suspension parts due to the ease of replacement stuff ,hence the t2 trans and bulkhead,

You looking to use a stealth drilled Rc10 tub? A couple ways to work it I think, but you do know the T2 tranny won't fit without creativity right?

... also, i have a t2 rear shocktower on the way that im going mock up to get an idea of how much lower it will be mounted... is the width from the mount ears too wide for a buggy if i lower it?

That's totally up to you. There is no rule in the books on mount ear width. Again. IMO make you own tower. Some material, a hack saw, a few files, and a few drill bits will get you close enough if you don't have other more specialized tools. If you use a woven carbon fiber, it has built in graph paper pattern printed righ on it for symetry.

and finally, what diameter copper tubing did you use to build the cvd's?

The size that fit. Cut a bone and take it to your lhs.

frankenbrucky rc10.. i cant waiiiiiiiiit to start fabbing this thing up

Looking forward to seeing it!

[sbcnyc]

awesome, thanks for the reply, figured this thread isnt too old!

gonna head to home cheapo today with a broken cvd (my calipers are at work) i swear ive seen newer cars do the same thing you did, i think kinwald did something like that for a touring car, but the cvd was soldered together, like sweating copper plumbing, LHS's are a dying breed around here, and way too far to take a casual trip, if home creepo fails (as it usually does) gonna go craft store hunting, i need to pick up a jewelers hacksaw and a small square file too

yea i know its gonna be some real work, thats the whole reason i got psyched on your build!!! i have a bid on a beat up prestealth pan with a few extra random holes drilled in it and its perfect for a runner, no stealth holes so it should give more meat to work with, i saw a build here that someone used the t2 trans, the rear holes for the original trans were too close for my taste once the square recess was cut, so that seems to be one problem solved, also the motor plate was hacked off and used a t2 motor guard in its place.... which leads me to think about...

the big issue im seeing is the trans/bulkhead, on the t2, it looks as though the gearbox/bulkhead/arm blocks are forward, the bulkhead bottom screws are parallel to the arm block screws ( and if you look close, the arm mounts slide under the chassis tabs where the bulkhead screws into the sides ) so this leaves me to think the rear of the chassis will be spaced too far from the motor plate...but more so, the wheelbase may be way off

the spacing for the two front bulkhead screws are totally different, i dont even have the gold nose but i remember from way back in the good ol days, the buggy nose is way wider. i bought an old gold nose so i could line up the middle holes and drill another foward set as you did, i rather hack the gt truck front, no real value in tub gt's (not yet, i think you and the similar builds you posted might change that...i already spent way too much on random used parts and i already HAVE truck stuff!!!!) the gt plate is going to require all 4 holes for the narrowed bulkhead. unless theres a difference in the actual length, i gotta figure out my wheel base, if they are different, ill just hack both and see what wheel base works best

the big question i totally forgot to ask is what width should i end up, i know the max is 250mm, you ended a tiny bit over. did you measure axle tip to axle tip? or gave a few mm for wheel spacing, im guessing i should get someone to measure a B4 tip to tip, front and rear so i have the exact number i want to shoot for

my plan is to get the wheel base and width worked out, than the trans/bulkhead, than camber and shock towers... this is gonna be so much easier when everything is physically in front of me vs theorizing and picture hunting for days!!!

[flipwils11]

This build is such an inspiration to creativity. The huge arm travel and pointy nose in the front reminds me of my B3 geometry a bit.

[sbcnyc]

This build is such an inspiration to creativity. The huge arm travel and pointy nose in the front reminds me of my B3 geometry a bit.

yea, very much, and for the most part all the new modern buggies have a teeny narrow nose and tail, super long arms, and wheels that are almost negative offset! it seems the only differences now with trucks and buggy chassis are the wheels, i cant tell them apart aside from body mounts

the thing about this build is the use of truck arms that got me, i have so much truck stuff, when i saw this i said to myself this would be a great way to have a buggy i always wanted as a kid, and keep it going for years, not to worry about the crazy ebay prices for original weak parts, namely the original rear bulkhead and rear arm mounts, not that i plan to jump the buggy off a bridge but weird things break in the most annoying ways.... a friend curbbed my xxxnt at the slowest speed imaginable, just above walking pace... at the angle it bumped, it totally sheared an aluminum front axle, cursing away because i had steel axles, but only swapped one in a rushed build... wild guess as to which side i broke... ohhh sweet irony