Re: My 10T SC conversion
Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 7:26 pm
Congrats on the Reader Ride, and very neat to see the evolution of your 10T!
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My 10T SC conversion
Page 4 of 5
Re: My 10T SC conversion
Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 9:55 pm
The truck work very well. Steers like a 4WD.
Re: My 10T SC conversion
Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 9:59 pm
Entering the corner
Re: My 10T SC conversion
Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 7:17 pm
Dont feel too bad about not running street stocks I stopped that sh..... when they changed the rules and made the streets hots.
Cool truck, whats the complete weight of that pig?
Cool truck, whats the complete weight of that pig?
Re: My 10T SC conversion
Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 7:25 pm
They kept upping the class till most of the guys either dropped down a class or quit. This year they had about 7 cars on average and halfway through the year just dropped the class all together. Makes my 9 year old homemade streetstock pretty much worthless unless I can find someone that wants to trade it for a sportmod.
Right now as it sits its 2120g. I swapped the rpm front bumper for a stock sc10 bumper and lost an ounce there, Ihave a pair of goosebumps on the front that are 2 ounces lighter than the stock associated ones. I have been slowly trimming the fat off of it as the season goes on. I have a slash body for next season that's about 60g lighter waiting for paint. Pretty happy with it so far. Still need to work on the driver though lol
Nick
Right now as it sits its 2120g. I swapped the rpm front bumper for a stock sc10 bumper and lost an ounce there, Ihave a pair of goosebumps on the front that are 2 ounces lighter than the stock associated ones. I have been slowly trimming the fat off of it as the season goes on. I have a slash body for next season that's about 60g lighter waiting for paint. Pretty happy with it so far. Still need to work on the driver though lol
Nick
Re: My 10T SC conversion
Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 4:11 am
Ok, its been a long time. Time for an update. This season has been going pretty good. currently leading points in 17.5 short course. Not by much but enough for now. No major changes from last year just some updating and weight trimming. Up front the RPM front bumper is gone and a stock SC10 bumper is in its place. There was an ounce off the front end there. Mounting was fairly easy.
With the blitz hubs I got rid of the stock associated front wheels and picked up a set of goosebumps on some unknown wheels. Those were 2 ounces lighter for the pair. The shorty packs were a big help at loosing some weight. With alot of the weight coming off of the front I had to do another remodel to get the rearweight back down. Last year and beginning of this year it worked best around 60.5-61% rear. With the bumper and front tires The weight dropped but the rearweight was up to 62.5 and it was getting a little pushy. So once again everything came out and it got shifted again. I switched to a low profile servo just to try it out. It fit real cozy up a little farther in the nose and the reciever right next to it. That gave me about 1 1/2" that I can move the battery forward or back depending on what I need. That all together got the rearweight down to 60.9 with the battery to the front and 62.0 with it to the back. That gives me some adjustment without adding weight right away. Other thing I added was carried over from the stock car. If you look in the pic of the front bumper there is a screw sticking up with a plastic nut on it. I have 5 1/2 ounce weights with a 1/8 inch hole drilled through them. I can add nose weight on the bumper or hang it on the back where the mudflaps mount depending on track conditions. Its fast and I dont have to mess with tape.
Also got rid of the viper and went with a tekin this year. The difference was unreal. I cant say how the rest of the vipers are but that one was a dud. It functionally ran but it had no torque, or top end. Right now its in my sons shortcourse for the novice class. Good place for it.
The body is getting pretty rough so a new one is in order over the winter. The 4wd slash body doesent look that bad but the main thing is its light.
Thats along ways from last years starting weight.
Nick
With the blitz hubs I got rid of the stock associated front wheels and picked up a set of goosebumps on some unknown wheels. Those were 2 ounces lighter for the pair. The shorty packs were a big help at loosing some weight. With alot of the weight coming off of the front I had to do another remodel to get the rearweight back down. Last year and beginning of this year it worked best around 60.5-61% rear. With the bumper and front tires The weight dropped but the rearweight was up to 62.5 and it was getting a little pushy. So once again everything came out and it got shifted again. I switched to a low profile servo just to try it out. It fit real cozy up a little farther in the nose and the reciever right next to it. That gave me about 1 1/2" that I can move the battery forward or back depending on what I need. That all together got the rearweight down to 60.9 with the battery to the front and 62.0 with it to the back. That gives me some adjustment without adding weight right away. Other thing I added was carried over from the stock car. If you look in the pic of the front bumper there is a screw sticking up with a plastic nut on it. I have 5 1/2 ounce weights with a 1/8 inch hole drilled through them. I can add nose weight on the bumper or hang it on the back where the mudflaps mount depending on track conditions. Its fast and I dont have to mess with tape.
Also got rid of the viper and went with a tekin this year. The difference was unreal. I cant say how the rest of the vipers are but that one was a dud. It functionally ran but it had no torque, or top end. Right now its in my sons shortcourse for the novice class. Good place for it.
The body is getting pretty rough so a new one is in order over the winter. The 4wd slash body doesent look that bad but the main thing is its light.
Thats along ways from last years starting weight.
Nick
Re: My 10T SC conversion
Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 7:40 pm
They just up and changed the rules on us inbetween seasons.cautrell05 wrote:
Right now as it sits its 2120g.Nick
What would that be in lbs?
Re: My 10T SC conversion
Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 8:03 pm
Last time I checked ROAR minimum was 2100 grams. I think its like 74 ounces unless they changed it.
Nick
Nick
Re: My 10T SC conversion
Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 12:55 pm
Well, it s a cool truck good job on this one.
Re: My 10T SC conversion
Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 12:58 pm
Thanks
Nick
Nick
Re: My 10T SC conversion
Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 6:17 pm
man this is a very cool project.. lots of time,too much for me. if i spent time on a truck like that i would not risk it at a track.. projects like this is why i like this hobby good job
Re: My 10T SC conversion
Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 7:17 pm
I have no idea how many hours I have in it but trust me,.this thing is a beast. I am not worried about it breaking.
Nick
Nick
Re: My 10T SC conversion
Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 12:51 am
cautrell05 wrote:I have no idea how many hours I have in it but trust me,.this thing is a beast. I am not worried about it breaking.
Nick
Dont say that too loud or youll strip something
Re: My 10T SC conversion
Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 10:56 am
Winter update time.
After two seasons the out drives on the transmission were pretty much done.
The original 2.25 stealth outdrives have been discontinued for a while now and I dont feel like searching ebay for more so it was time to upgrade the transmission. I originally thought I had to cut the hole in the chassis for the gearbox to fit through. As many holes as there was already in the rear chassis I didnt really want to cut a big square in the middle. I did luck out though and with the height of the slash hub carriers it would work out with the transmission sitting on top of the chassis. A new rear bulkhead was needed for the transmission. Figured it was a good time for a new rear tower at the same time. One block of delrin and some mill time later i had this.
The rear tower was cut out of a sheet of 1/8 fiberglass. Much easier to work with than aluminum.
As usual when everything seems to be going good it means i missed something. with the back of the transmision mounted I worked my way forward. Tried to put the motor in and ran into an issue.
Gearing would be a nightmare with the motor that far forward. luckily for what ever reason my chassis had two sets of holes for the arm mounts. With the mounts in the rear position it moved everything back far enough to clear the motor. Wheel base is now 2 mm short of max limit. Not sure if thats a good or bad thing. Time will tell there.
With that problem figured out I was able to get the front of the transmission anchored down and the upper chassis braces mounted.
Still have some more work to do but thats where im at so far.
Nick
After two seasons the out drives on the transmission were pretty much done.
The original 2.25 stealth outdrives have been discontinued for a while now and I dont feel like searching ebay for more so it was time to upgrade the transmission. I originally thought I had to cut the hole in the chassis for the gearbox to fit through. As many holes as there was already in the rear chassis I didnt really want to cut a big square in the middle. I did luck out though and with the height of the slash hub carriers it would work out with the transmission sitting on top of the chassis. A new rear bulkhead was needed for the transmission. Figured it was a good time for a new rear tower at the same time. One block of delrin and some mill time later i had this.
The rear tower was cut out of a sheet of 1/8 fiberglass. Much easier to work with than aluminum.
As usual when everything seems to be going good it means i missed something. with the back of the transmision mounted I worked my way forward. Tried to put the motor in and ran into an issue.
Gearing would be a nightmare with the motor that far forward. luckily for what ever reason my chassis had two sets of holes for the arm mounts. With the mounts in the rear position it moved everything back far enough to clear the motor. Wheel base is now 2 mm short of max limit. Not sure if thats a good or bad thing. Time will tell there.
With that problem figured out I was able to get the front of the transmission anchored down and the upper chassis braces mounted.
Still have some more work to do but thats where im at so far.
Nick
Re: My 10T SC conversion
Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 1:18 am
Well the wife is out doing the suicide shopping thing and I opted to stay home. Got a little more done tonight.
All the hard work is done. Just need to take it apart and go through the transmission, fill the diff and decide what slipper i want to run, rebuild the shocks and tidy up the wiring a bit.
On the scales Im pretty happy too. With no lead its 2033g, 67g or almost 2 1/2 ounces under weight. 50.1% left 49.9% right and 60.0% rear.
Thats 5 1/2 ounce weights across the back of the body in the picture to get it up to 2105. Depending on where I put them I can change the rear weight from 58-61.5 and still be at minimum weight.
Nick
All the hard work is done. Just need to take it apart and go through the transmission, fill the diff and decide what slipper i want to run, rebuild the shocks and tidy up the wiring a bit.
On the scales Im pretty happy too. With no lead its 2033g, 67g or almost 2 1/2 ounces under weight. 50.1% left 49.9% right and 60.0% rear.
Thats 5 1/2 ounce weights across the back of the body in the picture to get it up to 2105. Depending on where I put them I can change the rear weight from 58-61.5 and still be at minimum weight.
Nick