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Put external limiters (or fuel tubing) on the rears so it doesn't compress fully and push the bones into the outdrives. You will save yourself a ton of headaches doing it that way.

I found the left side couldn't travel the last, almost, 1/4" so I caved and shaved the rear hubs so the axles sit almost an 1/8" farther out than they did. Now the shocks can compress all the way. Also rebuilt the shocks according to Ruffy's setup for the track http://www.thercasylum.com/pdf/Ruffys_RC10_Settings.pdf and found out I'm pretty sure the rear shocks have the longer shaft in them (hehe) (also see the pics).

Got the servo and battery mounted. The standoffs are from the local supply store at 15cents a pop.



Normal ride height.



Uncompressed....

the rc10 (buggy, not truck) has had three different methods for limiting down-travel, which it appears you have decided not to use, judging by your last picture.

the arms usually have a stop molded in them, but I am not sure when or if they were removed. That is the first method.

the second and third method are as follows:

if you have a 1.32" shaft, you need to use approx 5/8" of fuel tubing when building the shock

if you have a 1.02 shaft, you need to use approx 3/8" of plastic limiters when building the shock that were provided with the kit.

depending on the year and model of RC10, you could have 1.32" or 1.02" shock shafts, and all recieved 1.32" rear shock bodies, whether top load or bottom load version

hope that clarifies that for you. You need to put some travel limiters in the shocks.

I'm guessing I have the 1.32" shafts since they seem to match the length of the shock body. Ruffy's setup calls for 1/8" of limiters using the 1.02" shaft, so doing the ratio there, I should use 3/8" of limiters in the shock. I"ll have to switch that up.

in my opinion, you should be going by a setup used on harris' car rather than ruffy's. his setup is based off a stock rc10 suspension geometry. you no longer have that. your car is much closer to how jeff builds his.

like i said, just my opinion.......

I'm just trying to get a baseline setup right now. But if you know of a setup Jeff has posted I'd probably use it more so than Ruffy's setup (although ruffy is dialed out there).

I put in the extra quarter inch of limiters in there and it's much better.

JHarris wrote:Put external limiters (or fuel tubing) on the rears so it doesn't compress fully and push the bones into the outdrives. You will save yourself a ton of headaches doing it that way.

fuel tubing, after a while of pounding on them, could collapse and cause the your bones to come out of the tranny drives. 1 or 2 o rings are the way to go, and putting some limiters on the shock shaft inside the body will remedy it too. or if you don't want to deal with all that you could just get a smaller shaft. i learned this the hard way a couple of times.

Seth!
Hey it was great to meet you last Sunday.
I just took these pictures real quick in the hopes that they might help you see how many limiters internally my shocks have and the droop the arms have with stock RC10 parts and the RC10T rear hubs. I'm using B2-B3 CVDs (3/16" axles) with B2-B3 wheels (just received my 1st order from tower of the Thunder Tiger wheels that are like the B3's).
Here you can see the front suspension with no weight on wheels (no shock compression) and the rear tires off the surface. In the front I also have one orange o-ring on the shaft above the shock spring collar and two on the rear shock shafts externally. These are merely to cushion the car during high altitude landings as they just make contact before the car bottoms out on the chassis.
I hope these help and look forward to seeing you out there once I return from my business trip.

I personally always recommend to use hard stops inside the shocks. I'm using 1.32 bodies with 1.02 shafts. If you have 1.32 shafts in yours, start with 4 1/8" spacers in the rear if you are using the shock limiters from Associated, or use approx. 1/2" long worth of internal limiters in the rear to test and see.

And as others have indicated, you can use fuel tubing or used shock o-rings on the outside of the shock as "up-travel" limiters to prevent bottoming out.

Then take a picture and see, but more importantly test and see as they just changed the track layout.
Anything that Jeff, Jamie or I can do to help at the track, feel free to ask.

Sweet, thanks. The rear of my buggy looks like that now. Good idea about the orings, some of those jumps are huge.

Probably need to go to 1/2" worth of limiters like you said. I have 3/8" in and it looks like a slight bit more travel than yours.

Anything that Jeff, Jamie or I can do to help at the track, feel free to ask.

Yep. You have access to a lot of resources here but you also have Ruffy and I that live in Orlando. I spent the day in the garage today and will be doing the same tomorrow. Whatever I can do, let me know.

I think right now I just need to spend a lot of time at the track laying down some laps. Do you guys know about what they're doing at the track? It sounds like it's going to be more blue groove and I'll need some barcodes instead of double dees in the rear.

Double Dee's or Holeshot 2.0's will be the ticket. The surface gets a groove, but not enough for Barcodes.

Ok awesome. I have double dees for both my xxx-t and this car so I didn't want to have to get new tires so soon.

I'll be racing my stadium truck next week and I'll bring the rc10 as well. I'm holding off with the rc10 because it will be a fresh car to me as well as a new class. But I hope to get some practice in and see a few of you there.

looks like you're in good company seth, with 2 guys giving excellent advice. post up some pics of your truck. i'm curious to how things turn out.