My RC10 Graphite runner

[jwscab]

Shapeways. Nix(Nikki) makes them. I run two cars with them and they work very nicely so far. I'm not gentle and (knock on wood) so far so good. You can also retrofit b2/b3 parts but need the elusive nose plate screws.

[XLR8]

This is where I'm at now and run out of parts. I'm using Nix steering as I like how it performs on my mid motor car. I will change all the ball cups to white shock rod ends and see how they work. Rear shock tower will change as well to be more like the prototype car's tower. I like to look of the golden shocks and will use those with bb springs(and golden caps and white parts at front as well). They are the top loading ones so hopefully will not leak like old style shocks. If I manage to find golden bb shocks I will have to reconsider.

I did cut the chassis nose a bit but not as much as Masami's car. I have to find or make a front bumper and drill the chassis for servo mounts and B44.2 battery trays.

I still don't know the idea of flipped rear bulkhead but it seems to work just fine as soon as I get the support done.

These can be found on Shapeways. https://www.shapeways.com/product/CV3UGMTT3/nix62524-steering-hd-bellcranks-for-rc10?optionId=43155429
While you're there, be sure to browse Niki's other parts; he has designed lots of cool parts for vintage RC10.

[fst72vette]

Well darn ... wish i would have found that sooner for some other parts. I just might get those bell cranks though ... did you have to redrill for the new servo location?

[fst72vette]

My bad a just reread this an seen where you have to drill some servo mounts. I have the same graphite chassis so this is good info for me

[TomiS]

I used NIX10M chassis as a template as it already had servo mounting holes in that position. I just bolted them together and drilled though. At the same time I drilled the holes for b44.2 battery trays.

I also found that those NIX steering parts are very durable, I have broken almost all steering parts but those. I even snapped one bell crank mounting screw once so I put a servo saver on. After that I didn't break anything but steering wasn't so precise. For outdoor tracks I try this without the saver.

[XLR8]

I recall that there were some serious durability issues with suspension parts that were made by Shapeway's North America branch. Does anyone here know if they've resolved their problem? The cranks Tomi has probably came from Shapeway's European facility while Joe's probably came from the aforementioned NA plant. Either way, Niki's crank design looks pretty beefy so apparently they hold up well no matter where they came from. The problem was primarily with the suspension arms; the NA ones would snap like dry twigs. Have they fixed this??

[jwscab]

not sure to be honest. I definitely prepped my parts though, i reamed the bearing bores and half-tapped the ball joint holes to try and release as much stress as possible.

[TomiS]

I have to admit I didn't prep the NIX parts at all. I got them from Niki himself so I don't even know where they are made. But they are good.

Joksa brought me the rear tower today and it looks really good. I may have to drill another pair of shock mounts higher as now the chassis is not hitting ground when shocks bottom.





What I'm still missing is the wing mounts and body to be cut to fit. And those pink dots. So not much really. And I think I have to cut one gold pan for rear bumper, I'm sure I need one and original ones are crazy money I've noticed.

[Joksa]

The car is progressing.. thumbs up!

[TomiS]

Carbon thumb!

I cut the body and I like how it fits. It's in pretty rough shape but as I'm going to drive this it will do for now. I hope those wing mounts will arrive soon as there is no other way to mount the wing now when the bulkhead as been cut.

[fst72vette]

Wow that really looks good. I love the body work you did.

[TomiS]

I got the wing mounts finally. I think they are bit too big and heavy. What other alternatives there are? These are brass axle shaft couplers I found on ebay. If I had a lathe I would try to make them smaller but I don't so they will do for now. I'm also not sure about painting the wing or not as I will most probably destroy it first time running the car. I like how the body fits, it's about half an inch more backwards compared to normal.

[XLR8]

Wow, that looks awesome Tomi. I vote for the clear wing. Not only is it more aesthetically pleasing (imho) but you'll cry less when it gets destroyed. You might even push the car a little harder at the track knowing you'll have less to loose. Anyway, I like a clear wing.

[TomiS]

Thanks for all your comments! I have to say I'm quite happy how this turned out. I modified the wing mounts by cutting them shorter and threaded it with M3 thread. It's better now. This car is now done for now, I only need to charge my batteries and go out to test it.

[TomiS]

I did paint the wing after all, at the same time I painted the wing for my other Graphite car. I still have one clear wing which I will most probably end up using. I definitely need to order some decals as I have absolutely none for the wings. I have tried to contact Ultrahive again but no reply this time. So I guess MCI it is.