Buri Racer 1/8 scale 4WD electric pan car

[V12]

Front end mounted to chassis. Top aluminium washer with o-ring not shown at this picture.

It´s important to tighten the locknuts to the chassis screws, no adjustment here. The rocker plate will move just a little, provided by the o-rings. Loosening the locknuts will affects bad swinging of the rocker plate and bad handling of the car. I tried mounting the rocker plate without the aluminium washers and o-rings what effects more moving range of the rocker plate but I have been told this doesn´t work really good at the track. Best option seems assembling as per instructions.

Additional washers below the lower washers/o-ring assembly could be used for adjusting front ride height, when using large front tires. As the steering servo is mounted to the rocker plate also, there is no need for adjusting track rods or ballstud washers when changing ride height.

Front belt tensioner is using fixed position. Belt tension will be adjusted through the inserts at the front axle aluminium plates and at the rear belt tensioner.

[V12]

Adjustable belt tensioner for the rear axle, currently at lowest pressure setting. Maybe more pressure will be needed later.

[V12]

High power brushless motors were used for the prototype cars. These were using 11 or 12 tooth pinions which could be mounted to the motor and positioned through the hole at the motor mount.
When using low reving motors like me, you have to use much larger pinions. I found they are a little more difficult to mount using a very short angled allen key for the pinion screw. I preferred to modify the motor mount slightly as shown at the picture. Using a file or Dremel you can easily do that modification and the pinion screw could be tightened much more easy this way.

Pictures also showing the quick release system for the wheels at the rear axle. Changing wheels could be done in seconds without any tools needed. I like it but just wonder why this wasn´t used for other cars than 1/8 scale before.

[V12]

Quick release system for the front wheels also. You also can see the spring used for that system.

[V12]

New bumper for the final car. Now a more flexible Lexan instead of the stiff graphite plate is used what should be better for the car in a hard crash.

[V12]

Car is finished now, just needs ESC and receiver added. The bad thing is temperature and track conditions are quite bad now and it´s not sure if the maiden run could be done in the next weeks or needs delaying for next spring.

[Niki]

Need to wait for next spring/summer now...

-N-

[Niki]

Finally had a chance to drive it. It's pure fun for sure.
How about you V12 ?
Too bad I forgot all my pinions home. I would have liked more speed on main straight. Next time then...

[youtube]F2U9WfoICi8[/youtube]

[V12]

I´m sorry some time gone since I visited the forum. Family affairs and other stuff got keep me away. Yes I had the chance now for trying the Buri. But maybe just 10 packs through the car so far.
It´s really good fun as expected but very fast even with just the 1950 kv motor, not that far away from a gas car. Acceleration could be even faster than gas car. Runtime is at least 7 minutes or up to 12 minutes depending on batteries and how fast you want to go. Keep an eye on batteries as this car still is quite fast when batteries are dumping and you don´t want to blow the Lipos.

Body is an old Protoform R18 which works really good but it´s a good idea moving the body a bit to the rear as the rear end could be a little loose on corner exit, as there is no camber or toe-in as found with suspension cars. A P909 body might be too much and the Sheperd body used by Niki should be quite smooth to drive from what I heard.

There are some tricks found at the Buri website what makes sense. Especially the lexan guides for keeping the belt at the pulleys when chassis twists too much, what could happen at a crash. Tires should be changed left/right after each run for keeping them same diameter what helps with handling. But this is true for any car using foam tires.

Finally a word on staggered tires or tires sizes in general. Brand new tires could work for a lot of runs but you will find smaller tires will make the car faster if there is good traction, another fact for foam tires. If you got several sets of tires, you will find the difference in tire size between front and rear affects handling of the car. Not just for the Buri but actually for all 1/8 scale cars because of the oneway at the front. Large amount of stagger (difference) makes the car more aggresive, less amount makes the car easier to drive but maybe also somewhat slower laptime. Try different sets and find the sweat spot for you or the track if you want the best handling for the car.

If you race the car at a real 1/8 scale race track you will find gas racers dump their tires into the bin quite often, as the suspension cars need larger tires. The good news is these tires still could work very good for the Buri if they are not damaged. Usually front tires could be used without any rework, just match tire size if there are several sets. Rear tires need some trueing as todays gas cars use slopped tires because of camber and toe-in. Such tires don´t work very good for pancars without reworking but I personally just true them flat for maybe 2/3 of wide for saving some more tire life, what works quite good. After one or two runs at the track they are perfect.
This way you get tires for free!

[EvolutionRevolution]

I´m sorry some time gone since I visited the forum. Family affairs and other stuff got keep me away. Yes I had the chance now for trying the Buri. But maybe just 10 packs through the car so far.
It´s really good fun as expected but very fast even with just the 1950 kv motor, not that far away from a gas car. Acceleration could be even faster than gas car.

It should be able to blow the 1/8 and 1/10 gas racers right off the track, since it's like a 4WD Pro10 car. Modified 2WD Pro10 brushless (on 7.4 V lipos) goes faster than the 1/8 cars...

[V12]

On some tracks yes and it depends.
1/10 gas cars usually are slower. But the Buri is not a 4WD Pro10 car, the Pro10 car uses a more or less limited suspension depending on design where the Buri is 4WD but a pure old style pancar.
The Buri shines when track is smooth and you keep away from curbs, also you don´t have to care for frequent diff rework and use of tire sauce what both is mandatory for the Pro10 car. A real good Pro10 modified car could be faster than the Buri if there is good traction and you´re using a fast motor setup and tire sauce.
If traction is low the Pro10 car usually don´t work really good when the Buri still could be raced but you will experience a somewhat loose rear end at corner exit again as there is no toe-in. A different body and enlarged rear flap will help somewhat.
At such track condition the 1/8 gas car will be faster for sure, rear toe-in and a real suspension helps here as the lower torque of the gas motor.