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Sean, is this about what you'd like to see for down travel? These are .89's with no limiters.

Ok... That's awesome! Got 5 of those towers you want to sell me? Or point me in the direction that I can buy one already made like that? If Aaron has them for sale (Just like that) then which one is the part number because I don't see it in his BST.

I have the concept of down travel/up travel... I have been racing nearly 30 years now. Thanks for the lesson tho!

Yes please show me so I can have them made!

Orange wrote:I have the concept of down travel/up travel... I have been racing nearly 30 years now. Thanks for the lesson tho!

i wasn't questioning your knowledge of suspension travel, i was asking if that amount of droop is good for you.

It looks great. When did we get on that subject?

Here's how I see it.. The RPM Worlds tower, The CC Tower and any of the towers that are made for 1.02 and .71 shocks are no good for racing an RC10 with .89 shocks using the narrow front nose. You can use them all day long for a car on the shelf. I would not use them to race with. YOU CAN in fact use that tower with .89 shocks if you are interested in drilling some new holes in them as was mentioned. Again, if it were me, I would not do that. I'm pretty sure the guy building a car in this thread has intentions to use the car as well and my suggestion was to him to use the Worlds tower with 1.02 shocks OR he can get a B3 tower and drill it to fit .89 shocks. He asked this question, I answered with what I would do... If he wants, all day long you can finagle some .89 shocks on those other towers and if he wants to do that, Great! I would not encourage it. If it were me, if I had one of the RPM knockoff towers, I would run the car with 1.02's up front and call it a day. Which is what I think he decided to do.

Its great that you have a one off tower that nobody can get and if they were available, I would have pointed him in the right direction to buy one. But up to this point, there is nothing readily available that is made to bolt up .89 shocks on a narrow nose plate that IMO would function properly.

In any case, if you are interested to see what mine looks like, here it is:



And trust me I stare at it all day long thinking its crooked... Its not. The weave in the tower is crooked,

i asked your opinion about the droop to show you this:

this is my prototype .89 tower over top of a c.c. worlds front tower. when i designed my tower it was supposed to be .89's up top, .71's on the bottom. well, something got lost in translation and the bottom ended up becoming .89's, so the top row was removed before the file was finalized and my tower was cut. take notice that the holes on the c.c. tower that are "supposed" to be .71 holes line up almost perfectly to the .89 holes in my tower. i could put that c.c tower on my car and there's be like zero difference in the suspension travel.
there's also plenty of room to the outside to add another hole if it was wanted. you could even use a b3 as a template to add the outer hole and reshape the tops if you wanted to shorten it.
but i get the fact that you want a direct fit tower. maybe one day something will be available. i'm done hi-jacking this guys thread now.

Someone should produce one of those in carbon fiber. I'm sure it would sell, I know I'd pick up a couple

got my parts dyed and started final assembly still need to buy shock towers and decide what im doing for steering bellcranks but its making headway

Looking good! Black, carbon, and blue always look great on an RC10.
Are you not going to use the bell cranks on the chassis in the photo? I have the same bell cranks and really like them.

I really need to get a minion to assist me with my projects. The kids would probably steal him though. Maybe once the Elf is done with Christmas duty he can ditch this shelf gig for a little bit!

glastornjet73, car looks really good. If you are planning to race this, in my experience your battery position is not good, I run my shorty pack full forward, against the servo. Love the feel of the shorty in the RC10, really has the car feel nimble.

thanks guys! i was going to use those bellecranks but they are the houge ones that someone has modified to use the a&l rack. i love the way it fits the car but i sanded and buffed it and when i did the dye from before when it was died black started to come off. i tried re dying it and it just wouldnt take any color so i dont know what i want to do with that yet. i might get the rere worlds style bellcranks associated re released or i also have a set of the houge ones that have not been cut up to use the rack but i need to get another blue turnbuckle to link them togeather. seeing as how i used lunsford ballcups and i dont want to use the rpm 1 peice steering link i know im probly too anal! but i like my stuff perfect or at least perfect in my eyes lol


i probly will race it but im going to put a full size lipo in it or use saddle packs reedy came out with a lipo that looks like a nihm stick pack i think im gonna use to kinda blen the old with the new look... plus im pretty sure its shorter than a typical lipo and will fit the chassis without re drilling holes and moving the battery foreward but i will cross that bridge when i get there

Well the decision has been made it will get a new reproduction A&L rack kit!

Good call, but you'll have to dye it black

JK Racing wrote:glastornjet73, car looks really good. If you are planning to race this, in my experience your battery position is not good, I run my shorty pack full forward, against the servo. Love the feel of the shorty in the RC10, really has the car feel nimble.

+1

It makes a huge difference in the handling of the car. I won't even drive mine any other way. Its just that much better.

Will this b2 tower work with .89's?