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I used to use tubing as well internally and externally. It also adds a little cushion. The amount it crushes depends on the wall thickness of the tubing. I can't remember the od thickness off hand.

joeman37 wrote:

Asso_man! wrote:I would recommend not to use fuel tubing, as under harsh condition, that fuel tubing will simply crunch and make a mess as well. I woudl use AE ad hoc shock spacers, they are always useful to have at hand. And indeed, I would always attach the bottom of rear shocks to the outer hole and only move the holes on teh shock tower to make adjustments, I've always wondered why there was 3 other holes in teh rear arms, I never ever used these! At rest and fully loaded, arms should be more or less parallel to the ground and when lifted only a tad lower but not much (10-15° maybe) !

How is the fuel tubing going to crunch? The tubing comes under pressure when the shock is not under load. If it was taking a beating when the shock would go under load I could see some concern but this is just limiting unloaded travel and you are not stressing the tubing much at all. I am going to go with it and see how it works.

-Joe

Agreed...I'm going to try the same thing.

joeman37 wrote:
How is the fuel tubing going to crunch? The tubing comes under pressure when the shock is not under load. If it was taking a beating when the shock would go under load I could see some concern but this is just limiting unloaded travel and you are not stressing the tubing much at all. I am going to go with it and see how it works.

-Joe

Only in a wreck... which likely would be when the dogbone gets flung into a new zip code.

Chris

Only in a wreck... which likely would be when the dogbone gets flung into a new zip code.

Chris[/quote]

gomachv wrote:It was good enough for the early cars, good enough for me. I kind of like the idea of a bit of cushion, instead of three spacers I would always use two and an oring back in the day.

I was also thinking of using several rubber O-rings instead of spacers. Seems like they would provide more shock absorption and I don't think they'd compress like the old tubing but wanted to get some opinions.

Trust me the tubing works. Your going to have to slick it up good just to get it on and then your going to fight it over the threads on the shaft.

Yeah I know this all sounds wrong. We are talking TOY SHOCKS.

TheSpeedway wrote:Trust me the tubing works. Your going to have to slick it up good just to get it on and then your going to fight it over the threads on the shaft.

Yeah I know this all sounds wrong. We are talking NAUGHTY TOYS.

Fixed!

flipwils11 wrote:

TheSpeedway wrote:Trust me the tubing works. Your going to have to slick it up good just to get it on and then your going to fight it over the threads on the shaft.

Yeah I know this all sounds wrong. We are talking NAUGHTY TOYS.

Fixed!

Well, I got some more work done on it. I started building the transmission and adding bearings. I am having issues though with the spur gear. I have the nut tighten all the way down and it wobbles a bit and just does not seem right. I am really surprised their is no pin to keep it locked to the diff shaft. I looked at the directions many times to make sure it was built correctly. Is their something in kit instructions that was omitted? I'm going to tear it back apart, or just put a Stealth in it.






Rebuilt the rear shocks and added 5/8" shock stops. Much better now with the spacers added in. The black spacers in the picture are what the directions said to put in.





Wheels and tires added. I got the Wheels from Adam a while back and decide they looked good for this build. I might keep them on here.

Looks good!

I like to use a tad bit of superglue on the diff ring to the drive hubs, it only takes a very very small dab
Other than that, that's how the 6 gear works. You will get wobble as the balls center the gear- this is normal and the wobble goes away as the pinion turns the gear. It just doesn't look right but it is!

How freely does the trans spin? I'm wondering if running the three bearings per side on the outdrive binds like it does on the old case. In fact, when you bolt the old case together there is a gap at the bottom, the case used to not fit together well at all. We used tape to seal it

SFC K wrote:Well, I got some more work done on it. I started building the transmission and adding bearings. I am having issues though with the spur gear. I have the nut tighten all the way down and it wobbles a bit and just does not seem right. I am really surprised their is no pin to keep it locked to the diff shaft. I looked at the directions many times to make sure it was built correctly. Is their something in kit instructions that was omitted? I'm going to tear it back apart, or just put a Stealth in it.

Did you install both bearings inside the outdrive ?
The screw are used to hold the new outer bearing instead


Did you add the spacer ?

That's what I was wondering- the reason we did all that was because the line bore was off on the old case. It might be fine on te new one. I will know soon!

The spur gear will wobble, there has to be clearance so the diff balls can do their job, if you tightened it down to where the spur didn't move... you would have no diff, it's not solid like a modern slipper spur gear is

Chris

@Snoop I did install both bearings inside the outdrives and their was no spacer for the outdrives. They fit perfect and spin freely. I do like the screw mod for holding in the bearings but I think with the rear arm mounts they can't come out and the motor mount also acts like a stop on the spur gear side.

About this spacer, it is not in the kit and does not come with the bearings. Like Io said before, they fit really well and no wobble. Just at the spur but it sounds like that is a normal thing.

The issue in the old trans was with a misalignment, that may be fixed now.