RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hi ra272,

Yeh, it's a problem on my car for some reason. If I have the suspension on full droop, I can get full lock (say right), but I can only get the wishbone to about level before the ball joints hit. If I force it higher, the fouling forces the steering to go straight ahead!

It's not just touching a little, its a lot!

G

Well perhaps Jconcept ball cups are not as big as Losi's:

This is the only position with contact (fully compressed, 20° steering)

Mmmmm, I guess thats the problem, the Losi ball joints are WAY long, nearly twice the length of the original white AE ones. If I have my steering the same as yours, the inner camberlink ball joint hits the steering ball joint, not the turnbuckle. I guess I need a shorter inner ball joint.

I might move the tower forward too on the blocks, it won't do any harm, and some short neck ball studs should top it all off

Do you race your car? Have you found 20 degree castor blocks the best?

Thanks again,

G

I'll race this car as soon as possible (indoor races of my club are canceled because of some administrative problems...).

For information, I have cut those Jc cups (5mm or 1/4 inch).

Thanks, have you cut them so they are a similar length to the std AE ones?

G

Northy2 wrote:I see Temple has some new tech looking ball joints on his car here:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=3116&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=45

Anyone know what they are?

G

I used JConcepts, no binding like with Losi or RPM. Either use JC or Associated. AE makes long and short if you have turnbuckle length issues. I am using the World's Car bellcranks, which place the steering balls more towards the rear. But I see you've got the old MIP steering, which is basically the same...

Well, I'm going to work on this some more today and see what I can come up with.

Thanks,

G

Well, I milled away the triangular blocks to move the shock tower forward, and with some 20 degree (I think) castor blocks fitted it fixed my problem without having to cut down the Losi balljoints or fit shorter ones.

The B4 front shocks are too long though, I thought I might get away with them, but they fully compress way before the chassis hits the floor My options are a taller front tower, or some shorter threaded bodies - do AE do shorter threaded bodies?

I just need to see how much I can slam the shell now without milling away the chassis, as I'd rather keep the stiffness.

I might also look at fitting Losi rear wingmounts to the rear tower to do away with a wing wire.

G

Why do you want threaded shocks? The old kakis are the best in my opinion.

Just to modern it up really. Threaded shocks are so much easier to tune in practise when you have limited time.

This is not a basher, it's a racer

I love the old shocks: I think the kaki hardcoat is much stronger than the modern grey coat (on my T4, they were scratched by the spring very easily).

China coating

Anyway, looks like I'm gonna rebuild the original shocks with some awesome Nor-Tech Racing 'Whitie' O-rings and use them, I think that'll be easiest. They are in good shape apart from the o-rings

G

I could have sworn someone had posted a shock set-up from back in the day for one of these cars, one of Dreshers old set-ups I think?

Did I dream it?

G

Try the non-threaded .71's with B4 length springs (green, silver or blue depending on surface conditions), you will maybe only need the thinnest preload spacers. carloco8 had that helpful tip. The blues are what he recommended for grippy clay.

Northy2 wrote:I could have sworn someone had posted a shock set-up from back in the day for one of these cars, one of Dreshers old set-ups I think?

Did I dream it?

G

That would have been me http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3177&p=29509

As for the shocks you need .71 shocks, which aren't available with threaded bodies.