RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

mamadoesn`tletme wrote:

Mark Westerfield wrote:Its possible to get some belts, its just a small "timing belt". I have a friend that's a tool maker who is helping locate a source. I sure the problem will be the quantity that will be required to order them.

http://www.beltcorp.com/index.html

All Losi belts were/are made by:

MITSUBOSHI BELTING LTD. GROUP
MBL (USA) Corporation
601 Dayton Road, Ottawa, IL 61350
Local: 815- 434-1282 | Fax: 815- 434-2897 | Toll Free: 877- 625-7832

Just take the number from the stock belts and give them a call.

Good to know!
That sounds like a japanese company.

Well it must be time for me to finally post some pics. Ive been having a blast running this around my place. Still a few things I want to change but happy for the most part.

cool!

Are you gonna use a shorty lipo...or..?

A full pack hardcase battery fits....with this 5700kv motor. that said I had a 6900kv motor here that Ive never ran and was curious to how it would perform. I installed it but the wires exit the motor on a angle slightly lower to the chassis and the battery was a tough fit up against the motor wires. I did take it for a run and wasnt blown away but an increase in speed. So I went back to the 5700, for ease of battery install.

Previous owner cut the belt guard just behind the antenna mount so you dont have to remove rear end to access Mid belt for changeout. The thickness of the battery slightly lifts the belt guard when using the battery clamp. I was thinking of making a small plate tab off the two bolts in that area to hold cover down and keep somewhat ridgid.

I will use this car for just basic entertainment as there is no track to run it on in my area. I have read the argument about using a saddle pack to keep the cars proper balance, but I think I will calculate weight for other side and will save me from buying a pack just for this car.

Many moons ago, I ran a full pack down one side...I didnt have any side to side issues, it was raced like this for a while.

I found the shock tower kit from penguin r/c and when i got to checkout..... $26 shipping on a $19.99 set of towers. Once I picked myself from floor I cancelled order, dammit those are trick

Try fiber lyte or DMS racing in the UK.



This is the XX4 I am building, still needs many thing to be done.

X-Factory also has some trick bits!

http://www.xfactorystore.com/storeESpeed.htm

And if you need help with Penguin RC, just ask and I would gladly help get them to you for a little less cash flow!

They are probably dinging you for Standard International Priority Mail. Even though Canada is not near as much as the UK.


Aaron

Slapshot-your car looks spooky close to my 1st XX4.
I wound up trading it to Joey K and replacing it with a Yokomo MR4-BXF,then I replaced that with a B44...And am now running a XX4,again!
Can't beat 'em.
I now have two,both uncut chassis style,I'm slowly upgrading one to W.E. specs,so I can have one of each.
The Tough Racing belts seem to work real well,haven't noticed any stretching at all.
The Trinity XX rear pivot block is a killer upgrade.
Managed to find a Trinity rear sway bar,that works well,too.
Love to find a few Trinity front bulkheads.
Been running this one with all vintage running gear and it flies.
Anyone got a spare Lunsford steering turnbuckle?
My second car has 'em all 'round,but is missing the steering one...

Nice car.

I am loving these things puts a smile on my face when I wrench and I drive. The trinity rear pivot block upgrade is a xx part that is changed to fit correct ?? I have the part, but havent had a chance to take apart and look.

There are two ways to fit the Trinity XX rear pivot block.
The easiest way is two cut the two support ribs off it and bolt each hlaf to each side.
The second way is my favorite and is the way I always do it.
Remove the front rib from the block.
Make a cut into the rear chassis of the XX4 and slide it in.
I have pics,I think...Just not one of the block,after the cut.
You just remove the front rib,so it can slide in,easy.

Here you go,I painted over the front rib you need to remove...

Dremel here I come. Thanks for the pics.

I have noticed in a few pictures a rear hinge pin brace that covers over the top so the bumper gets screwed into it also, who makes this? both my rear bumpers have less than new threaded holes and I can only slightly tighten them.

No worries.

The only rear pin braces I've seen just sit there and flop around.
You don't need one with the Trinity pivot block,by the way.
I have a blue Trinity rear pin brace,but that too just sits there floppin' around...