Race Rustler build
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Re: Race Rustler build
Ok thanks for that i am running the 3 i also got the 0 plus i brought the 1.5 to try.i just always thought the tranny had the toe.on a stock rusty where does the toe come from? The hubs or the arms? Sorry for my lack of knowledge my son got me back into rc's after 20plus yrs of just riding and offroading so this is how we pass the down time.like i said i only use the rusty for speed but i also have a lcg anza slash i built and a e revo and rcten's.i have found i have to slow the car down or brake it to turn at speed.off the line is great but have to start slow or the front end is sky high.
My pop always said i had to many iron's in the fire
Re: Race Rustler build
The toe on a stock Rustler comes from nowhere because it doesn't have any.85Edinger wrote:No, no, no. A stock Rustler has 0 degrees of toe.
I got my Solar D771 in. It's pretty fast, even on 6 volts. It was a little low on grease, so I added some AE black grease.
I love the case design. It has a big aluminum section, gaskets at all the seams, and allows access to the electronics from top and bottom. The only bad thing I noticed is that it has a lot of gear slop, even with the included horn (which is a very tight fit on the output shaft.) My Hitec 7965 is already several months old and still has virtually no gear slop.
I plan to start out with this servo running on 6 volts with a Kimbrough 124 servo saver, mostly just to protect the bellcrank and steering blocks. If I decide I want more torque or speed I'll hook it up to run direct off my battery- it can handle the voltage of a fully charged 2s lipo.
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
Re: Race Rustler build
It's been way too long since I updated this- I haven't even posted a picture since getting the new tires. The truck has changed a lot, and I've somehow managed to never even take a picture of the truck with it's current track setup!
Just imagine this in one piece, and with 2.2 inch JConcepts tires and you have my race setup. This is the truck after yesterday's snow-bashing session in cold weather. Oh well, there goes one of the last original parts.
I'll finally get some pictures of the truck in race setup put up once I replace the chassis. Since I got the JConcepts 2.2's, it's won several oval races against foam tire cars, but it hasn't been able to participate in any races at my brand new local off-road track because there's no one else with a stadium truck. It handles the track very well and I think it would do very well if the class wasn't dead.
I'm curious, has anyone else broken or upgraded almost every part on an r/c car before?
Just imagine this in one piece, and with 2.2 inch JConcepts tires and you have my race setup. This is the truck after yesterday's snow-bashing session in cold weather. Oh well, there goes one of the last original parts.
I'll finally get some pictures of the truck in race setup put up once I replace the chassis. Since I got the JConcepts 2.2's, it's won several oval races against foam tire cars, but it hasn't been able to participate in any races at my brand new local off-road track because there's no one else with a stadium truck. It handles the track very well and I think it would do very well if the class wasn't dead.
I'm curious, has anyone else broken or upgraded almost every part on an r/c car before?
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
Re: Race Rustler build
love the rustler. Ive got jconcepts 3055 subcultures, 5in diameter, on mine and its an absolute blast. pretty much a rtr with turnbuckles, bearings, spektrum 2.4, and HW 60 amp brushless w 3800kv reedy motor. Its overdue for shock towers and arms and a new body. not sure if I want alloy or rpm nylon. here it is sitting next to my oldschool bandit

eventually all parts will need to be repaired or replaced just depends on use and abuse. usually rc's are subjected to the worst of environments and their mechanical platforms aren't wear gaurded. The fact that you have kept it running and still enjoy it shows your love for it and addiction to the hobby. be proud and drive hard and your lhs will always know your name.

eventually all parts will need to be repaired or replaced just depends on use and abuse. usually rc's are subjected to the worst of environments and their mechanical platforms aren't wear gaurded. The fact that you have kept it running and still enjoy it shows your love for it and addiction to the hobby. be proud and drive hard and your lhs will always know your name.
Re: Race Rustler build
Nice r/c's! I like your choice of upgrades. I would get an RPM bumper before arms, towers, or a body. Definitely go with RPM arms over alloy, though alloy towers are nice.
Your body looks a lot better than mine did when I finally replaced it.
And yes, I'm on a first name basis with my LHS.
Your body looks a lot better than mine did when I finally replaced it.
And yes, I'm on a first name basis with my LHS.

. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
Re: Race Rustler build
I finally found a picture of the truck with it's JConcepts tires! It's from my backyard track, this past summer.
The setup's completely different. Just from what's visible, the springs, caster blocks, bulkhead, turnbuckles, shock tower, esc, driveshafts, and body have all been changed since this picture was taken, but it's a start.
Since you brought up the aluminum bulkhead, I'll tell the (long boring) story behind that.
Back in 2011, when I was a noob and had the Rustler Xl-5 that this truck evolved from, I noticed a micro crack on my bulkhead. I mistakenly believed that this was a problem, so I went online and ordered an STRC bulkhead. I installed it, and nonexistent problem solved. However, then I went and got a friend into the hobby. One day (fall 2011?) we were driving our trucks up and down the street. The truck had a Velineon, a 7 cell NiMh, and an AM radio. One run, the radio glitched and the car ended up hitting a neighbor's tree. It took us three minutes to reach it, and several more to locate it. The top deck screws were bent, and a shock cap popped, but there was no serious damage. For some reason, I thought that the bent screws were caused by the bulkhead, not by hitting a tree at 30mph with a stock Traxxas front bumper, so I put the stock one back on. I then sold the alloy one to that friend, who never used it.
I ended up trading to get it back (October 2013), and shortly afterwards I hit a metal post and wrecked the original bulkhead. The alloy one finally got back on.
The setup's completely different. Just from what's visible, the springs, caster blocks, bulkhead, turnbuckles, shock tower, esc, driveshafts, and body have all been changed since this picture was taken, but it's a start.
Since you brought up the aluminum bulkhead, I'll tell the (long boring) story behind that.
Back in 2011, when I was a noob and had the Rustler Xl-5 that this truck evolved from, I noticed a micro crack on my bulkhead. I mistakenly believed that this was a problem, so I went online and ordered an STRC bulkhead. I installed it, and nonexistent problem solved. However, then I went and got a friend into the hobby. One day (fall 2011?) we were driving our trucks up and down the street. The truck had a Velineon, a 7 cell NiMh, and an AM radio. One run, the radio glitched and the car ended up hitting a neighbor's tree. It took us three minutes to reach it, and several more to locate it. The top deck screws were bent, and a shock cap popped, but there was no serious damage. For some reason, I thought that the bent screws were caused by the bulkhead, not by hitting a tree at 30mph with a stock Traxxas front bumper, so I put the stock one back on. I then sold the alloy one to that friend, who never used it.
I ended up trading to get it back (October 2013), and shortly afterwards I hit a metal post and wrecked the original bulkhead. The alloy one finally got back on.
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
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Re: Race Rustler build
I saw the two part chassis.lol I ran my rustler with the brushless and stock radio and before I knew it the thing glitched and took off.when I finally got close it looked really funny then I saw why.....chassis split in two.one front arm broke away.well long story 2.4 radio and a few bucks later it became what it is today.pine grove cop clocked it at 84 mph.said he could site me for speeding lol.it still has a few stock parts but last time out I blew up my runner tires and fried my speed controller so its been sitting.time to get it ready for spring.
My pop always said i had to many iron's in the fire
Re: Race Rustler build
It's been fixed for a while but this is the first time I've had the race tires on it since replacing the chassis.
The only setup change I've made since then was swapping the 1.5 degree hub carriers for 0 degree hub carriers, and replacing the 0 degree arm mounts with 3 degree arm mounts.
The last time I had it on the track, it did great but there were no ST's to race. Hopefully the T5 will change that.
The only setup change I've made since then was swapping the 1.5 degree hub carriers for 0 degree hub carriers, and replacing the 0 degree arm mounts with 3 degree arm mounts.
The last time I had it on the track, it did great but there were no ST's to race. Hopefully the T5 will change that.
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
Re: Race Rustler build
I bought these caster blocks a while back:
http://www.rdracingproducts.com/Zen/front-c-hubscaster-blocks-blue-p-22.html
And now they have developed significant slop around the lower hinge pin hole, from wear.
Is it possible to drill out the lower hinge pin hole and put a delrin insert/sleeve in, or something?
Thanks!
http://www.rdracingproducts.com/Zen/front-c-hubscaster-blocks-blue-p-22.html
And now they have developed significant slop around the lower hinge pin hole, from wear.
Is it possible to drill out the lower hinge pin hole and put a delrin insert/sleeve in, or something?
Thanks!
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
- klavy69
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Re: Race Rustler build
is it the c hubs or the pin that is showing the wear? New pins might tighten them up a little if its the pins. Doesn't look like alot of extra material to get hog wild drilling but maybe a brass tubing sleeve around the pin or drill out for a brass sleeve to take up the slop. Either way its gonna have to be pretty tight tolerances to get any improvements...
Todd
Todd
Peace and professionlism.....Kabunga signing off!!!
- MetalMilitia
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Re: Race Rustler build
Here's a couple shots of my race Rustler. Has the bashing tires on it in these pics. Used an RCM-RC chassis, which I don't believe are around anymore.








Re: Race Rustler build
Very nice, thanks for sharing.
I still haven't gotten to compete in a real race with this. 2wd ST was slow last I went to the track a few months back. I'll be returning soon and hopefully have other stadium trucks to race.
I still haven't gotten to compete in a real race with this. 2wd ST was slow last I went to the track a few months back. I'll be returning soon and hopefully have other stadium trucks to race.
. . . you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime.
- MetalMilitia
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- Posts: 51
- Joined: Wed Oct 16, 2013 3:11 pm
- Location: Shamong, NJ
Re: Race Rustler build
Yea it's unfortunate that 2WD ST has almost been replaced by SCT. I'm hoping the class picks back up because it's really what got me into RC in the first place.
Re: Race Rustler build
Have you done anything to the truck lately or still racing it?
I have a ton of stuff that I did to mine I can help with.
I have a ton of stuff that I did to mine I can help with.
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