Well I had to leave town and this car had to be put on hold.
I decided to quit messing with the chassis and nose plate and find a donor. I don't want to mess with the chassis anymore because of all the extra holes, etc. The nose plate was really screwed to begin with and I pretty much made it worst, LOL.
I am working a deal right now to pick up a 10T in pretty decent shape for $50. It will donate the chassis, tranny, and motor plate to this car. I am working on acquiring a new nose plate as well (or one in decent shape).
I am going to reattempt the anodizing only black this time when the chassis comes in. If that doesn't work, paint will be the next step. I got some chassis protector film from Lowclass if I decide to paint.
well, I know that black is the hardest color to dye the anodizing, so if you do, make sure you use the good industrial dye, otherwise, it might only come out brown or gray.
one other thing, when you tried to do this chassis before, do you know if the solution got pretty warm? I know the process calls for a cool bath, as a matter of fact, i think hard anodizing is pretty much the same as regular anodizing, just that the bath is near freezing, and requires more amps becuase of it.
the other thing, is I would polish up the chassis, then make sure to put it through a caustic bath for a few seconds, the blotchiness may have been due to inconsistent oxides or impurites in the material from grinding or sanding.
Thanks for the heads up on the anodizing. I was adding ise to my last brew trying to keep the temp down. We will see how this next attempt goes.
I just finished the front shocks for my car. I painted the srpings blue and the rear will get the same color.
I need to find some black aluminum caps to top them off. I wanted a slightly different approach so I machine the hex off of the body. I still need to machine a new aluminum spring adjustment spacer simlar to the ones you all have seen on the original box art car. I think they turned out nice and should look very nice on the car when it is done.
I finished doing the machining on the spring adjusters for my shocks. They really make a big difference in the looks and cleans things up alot. There is a single set screw that will tighten against the body of the shock to lock it in place. Enjoy the pics. Hopefully I can get going on the ohter stuff for this car soon.
Does anyone know what kind of rims those are that came with your car? I have the same five spoke front rims on my RC10 and I was curious what size they were, and what kind of tires I could possibly mount on them. I had to use some spacers made by CRC to get the RC10 bearings to fit and would like to see if there are any newer tires that would fit on those wheels.
"Beer is proof God loves us and wants us to be happy." - Benjamin Franklin
"Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds." - Einstein
Well I decided to paint the tub on the car and it turned out good but is not going to last unfortunately.
I also decided to mill out the tub and I think it looks good. I just wish I could get the same results in anodizing becuase I think this tub would look pretty awesome. Enjoy the pic.
nice trim on the rear of the plate. I don't think I've ever seen anyone trim it like that before. I like it.
Nice job on the shocks too.....this thing is going to be really nice when you are finished!
Oh, you can extend the life of the paint by using some chassis guard. the one nice thing about the paint method is that touching it up or redoing it completely doesn't involve a bunch of acid
Thanks, I can't take the credit on the rear section of the chassis. Kenooze built a car and did the same thing to the rear of the car. I got the idea from him.
Once I get another nose plate I will be able to start putting the car back together.
Wanna try something extra trick on the shocks? Mill a flat on the shock body for the set screw to sit flat on. Never could figure out why no one ever tried that and left the set screw sit on a rounded body. Not a big performance option, but the best way to make sure there is no collar movement.