Newbie with a basket case RC10 project

[TitleSeventeen]

Where to start... so back in the late 90s I had no driver license or car, but I did have a few boxes of hand me down RC stuff from the 80s and a box of RCCA from that period as well. First car was a Kyosho Raider, but I always wanted a RC10, Ended up building a Grasshopper from spare bits as well. well years later I went to tech school and obtained a RC10 from someone there but by that point I was kinda out of it so it went in the box with the rest of the stuff and was forgotten. So its winter 2012 and I dug out the RC10 again and found this site, from the looks of it I have a "C" chassis one with mostly black plastic parts rather then the white ones. Also I am unsure if I have a "stealth" transmission or not. What is the advantage/disadvantage of that? Here are some pictures, this is about all I have RC10 related, and I'd love to piece this together and enjoy it some. I am torn to try and use all vintage electrics in doing it or use some more modern parts since those will likely be WAY easier to obtain now.















Ah and it turns out that Challenger remote pictured actually goes to my Grasshopper.

So let me know what you think and point out anything you see wrong, missing or otherwise! thanks in advance.

[teman]

Yep, stealth transmission It's cool you have the black anno'd shock caps, they're pretty rare at this point. If I owned the buggy I restore it asap

[RC10resto]

Late RC10 CE 1994-95
Car is box stock - came with black parts and Stealth trans.

[transamman908]

Nice! Looks to need 1 nose tube and a spur gear and should be good to go with exception of electrics

[TitleSeventeen]

Which body would be correct for this one? Are original decals still available? Is there a "right" spur gear to obtain? what about a pinion and gear cover?

What does the stealth transmission offer that the standard does not?

Both axles on this look to be rather worn out to me, I saw another post indicating that those are still available from AE. Also the bushings in the front wheels are beyond beat up, I would assume that there are ball bearing kits readily available yet?

Thanks for all the help!

[iVTEC4LIFE]

Great car!!

The stealth is more efficient than the standard trans. Three 48pitch gears inside versus six 32pitch gears. I'm pretty sure that the differential in that stealth is a ball diff as opposed to the standard's gear diff. The stealth is just more efficient.

Ball bearings will really wake the car up. Very easy to obtain. The gear cover... maybe a little tougher. I have one extra one... uncut but its precious to me as the original is beginning to crack. Sorry. You should be able to find one. Your axles look fine to me. The body should locate-able. These guys know. I need one too. The one i have is... meh.

Remember that when searching for parts some parts cross platforms. The nose tubes, for example, were/are used on the rc10gt and gt2.

As far as gearing..... I'll let these other guys handle that. All i know is that you'll be getting 48pitch gears. Probly a 23 or 24 tooth pinion. The spur gear... i don't know..

[Jay Dub]

Drivers side rear suspension mount appears to be a passenger side rear mount. You should get a new set. -Jeff

[joel45acp]

Great car to start the "craziness" with. If you need help......, well just ask. You'll find a wealth of info. on this site and some of these gents here are like RC10 gods. Well maybe not gods, but more like demigods.

[Zedmaster]

The B4 gear cover does fit the old stealth. One screw hole lines up perfectly, and the other would need to be drilled out. Personally, I find that just one screw is plenty for holding it on, and I don't drill it out. I use a little nylon washer from the hardware store to clamp it on more firmly without cracking the cover. If you want to get fancy, RPM makes a B4 cover that's made from their tough nylon. It's not all that expensive actually.

The axles do look OK, but perhaps they might benefit from putting some internal limiting on the rear shocks. Looks like they might be poking out kinda far from the outdrives. If you take apart the shocks, you can put some 1/8" silicone fuel tubing onto the shock rods. If the axles bump the outdrives when you push the rear arms all the way up, you can also put some tubing on the outside of the shock to prevent that. That can help prevent bent dogbones.

Good luck on the car, and welcome to the forum!

[TitleSeventeen]

I am seeing 2 different bodies avaliable, Viper and Protech which one would have come with mine?

Looking like I'll be going all brand new on the radio and ESC front. If I had more old Futaba Equipment I'd likely stay oldschool there but all I have is weird old Aristrocraft stuff that seems to not have had much support then, let alone now.

Kinda excited that I don't need all that much to get it together again.

Drivers side rear suspension mount appears to be a passenger side rear mount. You should get a new set. -Jeff

what do you mean by that, I cannot tell the difference, can you elaborate or show me what you mean?

[TitleSeventeen]

Actually it looks like I answered my own question according to the thread "THE FIRST 25 YEARS OF THE RC10" The late black suspension Stealth CE could come with either, and the very beat up body I have seems to be a Viper body. So I could go either way and still be correct.

[TitleSeventeen]

Got some things in the mail today!



New body, Wing kit, spur gear, and battery hold downs.

Anyone know size and pitch of the fasteners needed for the spur gear?


Found the body that came with it. Looks like someone stuck stickers on and slapped it with a paintbruch


Found 2 remotes but no receivers... anyone know if the old Novak radios will work with the older Attack radio pictured?

And lastly found some old magazines...

[Jay Dub]

Well, the rear suspension mounts come with molded in anti-squat and toe. It is pretty common for someone new to install the blocks backwards, giving zero or toe out, and pro-squat (by accident of course). But in your case it would appear that you have two "passenger side" blocks on your car. The "driver side" unit being the wrong one. Take a good close look, and you will see that they are the same piece(s), instead of being mirrored. So you will have toe in on your passenger side, and toe out on the driverside. And ant-isquat on the passenger side, and pro-squat on the drivers side-Jeff

[littleVETTE]

jeff's right. check out the bottom of the suspension mount. it should have either an R or an L.

[TitleSeventeen]

Wow, I do not know how you guys picked that out. I had to look at it good and hard then disasemble it and see the 2 "R"s for myself before it became obvious to me. Turns out I have a left side one, but it is white not black I guess that will do till a black left/set comes around. Had you guys never seen that I'd be wondering why the thing drives in circles down the line.