RC10 B1.5 - Build #1 and #2

[scr8p]

I wish Kyosho had made those hubs!

This is better,

[Orange]

^^^

[scr8p]

[carloco8]

Nice builds scr8p! I like the detail on the rear tower for the runner to fit bodies properly. Any ideas for mounting a wing with tubes or are the "masami" style shock tower wing mounts the way to go? I think Associated still should have made this car and saved the composite B2 as the first B3 design. Probably still would have won the '95 world's LOL!

[scr8p]

Nice builds scr8p! I like the detail on the rear tower for the runner to fit bodies properly. Any ideas for mounting a wing with tubes or are the "masami" style shock tower wing mounts the way to go?

Unfortunately it doesn't seem that I opened the tower up enough at the top, so I'm still gonna have to atleast notch the body in that area. Or maybe heat the lexan up and push it out of the way at those 2 spots. As for the wing mounts, most likely i'll go with a pair of bud's or yoke wing mounts. The openings in the tower are gonna keep me from usin the b4 mounts.... I think.

The b4 topshaft showed up today so I got the trans buttoned up and the avid triad slipper clutch installed. For future reference, these don't drop right on like the standard b4 stuff does. You gotta make it work. I over engineered the living crap out of it, but I was bored.

[Y'ernat Al]

This is cool. Should have an awesome feel with that tranny and the tub.

The Losi 22 wing mounts (for the mid motor setup) might fit if you spread them out wider on the cheeks of the mouse face, and maybe use those existing bolt holes even...that is if you don't have a one Losi part per build rule in place here.

[scr8p]

The Losi 22 wing mounts (for the mid motor setup) might fit

thanks for the heads up on those. while i was on google looking for an image of them, i came across xx4 or xxx4 wing mounts that may work as well. i'll grab a pair of each and see how it goes.

[Asso_man!]

Looking really good here! That spur looks too small though for a good mesh with the motor pinion, unless you use a really big one. It also look like it's really close to the motor plate. One of the nicest WOIN builds so far!

[scr8p]

I think a lot of that is the pic, but it is close. I want to put a standard b4 slipper on it for comparison, just because I did have to "make" the avid slipper work. It was designed for the b4 trans/topshaft, but not a b4 topshaft in a t2 case.

The avid slipper comes as a stock or mod kit. Each one comes with 2 spurs. Being as though I doubt I would run more than a 17.5 I went with the stock kit (72 & 76 spur). I asked a knowledgeable member about a starting point for gearing. For non boosted 17.5 he suggested a 69 spur with I believe a 36 pinion (remember this is a 2.60 trans). With a 36 on it, the motor will be dead center in the slot on the motor plate.

[JK Racing]

on my B4, with the Avid set up (love it by the way), 17.5 non boosted, 33/72 - seems to work well for me.

[scr8p]

I'm gonna say the huge size of the track I'd be running on probably influenced the gearing suggestion. Idk, brushless gearing is all greek to me.

[Orange]

This is not a joke... But Kyosho wing mounts are better than the xx4/xxx4. The spacing between the screw mounting holes is not as far apart.

[Orange]

I try to gear my motors to be around 155-160 degrees after a run if that helps. And I don't turn my timing up as far as possible like most do. I tend to start around +38 degrees timing on the motor, and when I get to a gearing that I like on the track and is close to the optimal heat, I still have room to fine tune with the timing rather than having to change gears.

I always hear people talk about turning it all the way up. I personally don't like losing that option of adjustment. Its a much finer adjustment than changing a pinion gear.

This is of course using blinky mode.

[flipwils11]

I try to gear my motors to be around 155-160 degrees after a run if that helps. And I don't turn my timing up as far as possible like most do. I tend to start around +38 degrees timing on the motor, and when I get to a gearing that I like on the track and is close to the optimal heat, I still have room to fine tune with the timing rather than having to change gears.

This is of course using blinky mode.

Is there a link somewhere with a good writeup you would suggest? I just bought the Tekin Hotwire and have no idea where to start on it, either for my RX8 or RS Pro esc's.

[Orange]

When I was talking about timing in the previous post, I was talking about the timing on the motor, not the esc. In blinky mode you can't adjust the esc timing.

I have searched everywhere for good info on that. There used to be a forum on the Tekin website that had some good info. Don't know if it is still there or not. Most of what I have learned has been by trial and error. There is lots of decent setups on that site too.

My best tip would be to learn the default settings in the #3 timing profile. It is probably the best starting point for when you make a custom profile and start tinkering with the settings. When you decide you want to mess with the turbo values, be VERY frugal in your adjustments so that you can understand what they do. I seldom use it myself. I have found it is the easiest way to let the smoke out (Sometimes letting the fire out)

I have never done any testing with an RX8.

PM me if you have any questions. (Sorry for the thread hijack scr8p)