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I think fakiee put a gear chart on the yoke forum sometime back as I needed gearing advice too.

Thanks Naushad, ill have a look for it buddy.

bests....lee

Probably not helpful, but some gear ratios I used in 94/95 for brushed motors with 1700mAh cells.

Ludlow RRC grass - Reedy Sonic S 12 Double - 87/16 (11.96).
Stoke RRC grass - Reedy Sonic M 13 Double -82/15 (12.02).
- Reedy Sonic I 12 Quad - 84/14 (13.19).
Gwent grass - Reedy Sonic S 12 Double - 84/18 (10.49).
- Reedy Sonic M 13 Double - 84/18 (10.49).
Dudley Mid Champs grass - Reedy Sonic S 12 Double 84/16 (11.55).
Kidderminster RCP Invertational astroturf - Reedy Sonic S 12 Double - 87/16 (11.96).

Gear ratio of car 2.20

No way, thats a good insight, ill give some of those a go TBH, cheers buddy!

lee

Guys, need some advice. Took the YZ10 out today after building a pack and getting her all ready, hit a problem. Ive little to no braking!
Ive got the dial right up on the Cyclone, braking to 150 on my KO, and still theres hardly any there, its braking off load, but under load its like its a mild pull, im running a one way layshaft so rear brakes only, but even so, nothing really happening.
To save me taking it out and trying the Atom i have, anyone here reckon ive a brake FET out? I mean, there are three right??? Would a blown fet still give me some braking, or would it not work period?
If i have blown FETs, anyone here UK based able to fit new ones on the Novak Cyclone?

bests.........lee

(I also put this on your Oople thread)

The drive and braking FETs are in parallel, so if one is blown, you should still be able to run the others, provided no peripheral circuitry is damaged. You could try comparing the brakes on this to your 410, just as a sanity check. You might also try re-calibrating your Cyclone to your radio, making sure that you have no throttle/brake settings on the radio (i.e., expo at zero, EPA at 100%, etc.).

Buddy thanks for your input, mean to write you back. Solved the problem though, you'll never guess, a bit of slip on the rear diff, luckily id not gunned or used her hard, so the pully is cool, a quick strip down and adjust, bam, went like stink, super brakes too now, car had a nice shakedown and is now ready for some light indoor meets soon! I cant let it sit on the shelf now, i need to drive it!

lee

That'll do it Funny how it's usually something simple...

Chuffed to bits you've decided to run it Lee. Want to see some pics of the old girl in action

If I get time this year I'll run mine, that's if I can find somewhere suitable to run it of course.

Mark ill get some pics and vid when i get chance, she does shift though, had a TRF501x with a 5.5t in and that had some poke, going back to vintage electrics, i wasnt expecting too much, quite a surprise. Ill be taking my Dynastorm out soon too, fancy giving that some stick, not hard driving, cant face ruining it, but vinyl taping the chassis and some grass action may be fun!

lee

Old school DC modified motors had a decent power output. Something like a 12TD could be in the 200-250W range, which is comparable to a 10.5T brushless (e.g., Novak Ballistic Spec 10.5T is rated at 235W). So in terms of punch, you're not far off, but for the same power, a brushless should have a higher top end - they don't suffer from brush bounce

Well right now she has a Trinity Kinwald 11x4 fitted, punchy as hell, sooo nice and smooth, but i need to fit my TCS, ill do that in the next few days as ive just got the one way layshaft fitted right now. May look at brushless in the future, would like to get a run of direct fit Lipo trays made up though!

lee

What's the matter? You don't want to choke on carbon dust cutting your own lipo trays?

Haha, not really, after many years working with nasty resins and paints in my other hobby, my poor old chest cant take the abuse, and i guess ive grown lazy what with all this new tech around

lee

Well, I was feeling ambitious today, so I decided to make my own. A ruler, some eyballing, a marker, and a dremel...and a few hours of iterative cutting...and I ended up with this. It's handmade, so it's not "perfect," but it fits lipos nonetheless. After the glue is dried on the stacked pieces, I'll put the appropriate spacers under the posts to get the right height for the clamp plates.

One of the main issues is that the motor mount and the center posts get in the way a bit, so I made one of the trays U-shaped (left hand side) and the other tray C-shaped (right hand side). The "top" of the C-shape sits in between the saddle packs to prevent side-to-side movement. I figured this would be better than gluing a chunk of carbon fiber in the middle. Both of these trays are not glued to the chassis - they are held in place with the same screws that hold the battery posts. I did have to trim the front right hand post a bit, so that I can push the right hand side lipo forward so that it does not run up against the spur gear.

Not too bad for a hack job...