RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

tripedaler wrote: ↑Wed Aug 30, 2023 8:02 pm The only thing I’m really wondering about is wheels
And tires - any recs?

JC Racing has wheels that use modern 2.2 tires. Even though they are in GB, they ship pretty fast.

Just be sure to get rears for 1/4" axles.

And pay attention to which fronts you get. Wide fits standard 2.2 fronts, while narrow fits slim tires. Slim tire options are kinda limited.

They also offer replacement RC10 parts (most are slightly different design).

Thanks @juicedcoupe. Looking to get a bearing kit too, and seems like the Fast Eddy set will work well.

Now to research rebuilding the Stealth tranny…

tripedaler wrote: ↑Thu Aug 31, 2023 7:58 pm Thanks @juicedcoupe. Looking to get a bearing kit too, and seems like the Fast Eddy set will work well.

Just pay attention to which one you get. The CE was available with both transmissions.

Thanks - it’s a 3 gear/stealth. Reading up on Cliff Letts tips before the rebuild. Any recs on the bearing oil he mentions?
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=3721

The Stealth lube is for the ball diff, not the bearings. It is still available, part #6591. But any ball diff grease works. I normally use Arrowmax 210211 because it's easy to find and the tube is easier for me to use.

For bearings, I use Lucas fishing reel oil. Fishing reel bearing oil is easy to find at Walmart, Academy, Field and Stream, etc. Any of them are fine. Just don't use the "Hot Sauce" types, as they require frequent service and application.

While I wait for new tires from England, any recommendations on how to revive old tires? I’ve heard of spraying with WD-40 and wrapping with saran wrap to remoisturizing them.

Also, they are glued to the wheels, but I don’t think I will do the acetone trick since Phil likely break down the rubber at this point.

Those tires look too worn to consider trying to restore them. I'd just replace them.

The front wheels are three piece versions, that clamp the tires in place. They "shouldn't" be glued. Traxxas still sells a 2.1 step pin that fits them perfect, and they are only ~$8.

Schumacher has a couple options that fit the original rear wheels. I had to slightly trim the inner tire bead, as it was slightly wider than the original wheels.

I normally use the oven method to remove glued on tires. Then I put the wheels in acetone to remove any residual glue.

Note: Don't put Tamiya wheels in acetone. They are made of plastic instead of nylon and will melt.

Thanks. I should’ve specified, the fronts aren’t glued and can party easily. The rears are another story. I will look up the oven method and give that a try, then acetone for the remaining residue. Thanks for the leads on tires. As it happens, I’m also planning to rebuild a Tamaya Stadium Blitzer for my boys, one that I had growing up. Good to know for those tires.

tripedaler wrote: ↑Mon Sep 04, 2023 10:26 am I’m also planning to rebuild a Tamaya Stadium Blitzer for my boys, one that I had growing up. Good to know for those tires.

Great truck. I have four Stadium Blitzers and a buggy that uses mostly Blitzer parts. I also have a Futaba FXT, which is like the Blitzer's first cousin.

When you get ready, let me know. There are a few simple upgrades that increase durability.

Wow, thanks @juiced coupe. As a kid, I never liked it. I was mainly because I couldn’t change the gearing to keep up with my brother’s gold pan. We only got it because we when we phoned in the tower hobbies, they were out of RC10Ts, so my dad called an audible. What a privileged childhood…sheesh.

I’m mainly wondering about he mechanical SC, and where to mount an esc. But I’m sure the gearbox is I need of a rebuild, and I don’t have the original motor either….should be a fun learning experience

Here is one of mine, with a Hobbywing 1060.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=46479

Great looking Blitzer! I'll definitely be reviewing this when I do my teardown and rebuild. Very helpful

Alright, finished the rebuild and took it for a shakedown run last night. Unfortunately something is off with the stealth gearbox - mea culpa I’m sure.

When starting, there seems to be slip in the power. I tightened the slipper clutch, but that didn’t do it. Any suggestions?

Is the diff tight? The old diff and/or slipper springs could be weak as well.

I like my diffs a little tighter than normal. It might not corner quite as well but it will be easier on the ( hard to find and kinda expensive) diff parts.

I think I’ll try tightening the thrust bearing more next. Bottoming out the spring was a bit of guesswork.