SFC K's Re-Re build
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Re: SFC K's Re-Re build
You know, this comment about shock spacers has made me think. This Re Release and something like a Tamiya Re Release are in two completely different leagues. Something like a Tamiya you build by the book and run it or shelf it box stock... This is a 'race car' and rarely are these ever box stock, generally being built looking half at the manual half at the pile of clippings from rc car action and even a little bit at that little black book of secrets trying to make your RC10 faster and handle better then the next guys RC10. The manual was more of a guide then a bible... That is why these were so versatile, you didn't build them.. you created your own special version of them.
Chris
Chris
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Re: SFC K's Re-Re build
gomachv wrote:Well that's gonna be a problem, they need to fix that. You'll want to go back and get three of those in there or a 5/8 spacer of some sort. Original was fuel tubing. Without it, you'll lose and chew up dogbones
Well that sucks, now that they are full of oil....

Jeff
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Re: SFC K's Re-Re build
Yes and it helped a guy like me who would have ended up in the same boat. I have plenty of nitro fuel tubing laying around, should I just go with some of that under the piston?gomachv wrote:Yes but better now than after you chew up stuff!
-Joe
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Re: SFC K's Re-Re build
Pour the oil back into the container, it's not like it's used oil 
Chris

Chris
Losi - Jrx2, Pro, Jr2, Pro SE, JrxT, JrT, LXT, NXT, XXKE, XXTG+
Mini - T, LST, LST2, Crawler
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-Bashers under contruction- Jrx2
Mini - T, LST, LST2, Crawler
Micro - Trekker, SCT, T
Crawlers - Trx4 Defender, Bootleg Bruiser Shelf Queen
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- SFC K
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Re: SFC K's Re-Re build
joeman37 wrote:Yes and it helped a guy like me who would have ended up in the same boat. I have plenty of nitro fuel tubing laying around, should I just go with some of that under the piston?gomachv wrote:Yes but better now than after you chew up stuff!
-Joe
That is what I plan on doing. I'm not going to buy something that should have been in the box. They will both do the same thing...
Jeff
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Re: SFC K's Re-Re build
Yep, the manual has an error here. The original manual told you to use a 5/8" long silicone fuel tubing as a spacer, and subsequent manuals had different spacers and shaft lengths.
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Re: SFC K's Re-Re build
I would recommend not to use fuel tubing, as under harsh condition, that fuel tubing will simply crunch and make a mess as well. I woudl use AE ad hoc shock spacers, they are always useful to have at hand. And indeed, I would always attach the bottom of rear shocks to the outer hole and only move the holes on teh shock tower to make adjustments, I've always wondered why there was 3 other holes in teh rear arms, I never ever used these! At rest and fully loaded, arms should be more or less parallel to the ground and when lifted only a tad lower but not much (10-15° maybe) !
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Re: SFC K's Re-Re build
Thanks for the advice, but I have used fuel tubing in a lot of shocks internal and outer and have not had issues.
Are you referring to the shock down stops, Part number #6466 like previously mentioned?
Are you referring to the shock down stops, Part number #6466 like previously mentioned?
Jeff
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Re: SFC K's Re-Re build
Yes, I believe He isSFC K wrote:Thanks for the advice, but I have used fuel tubing in a lot of shocks internal and outer and have not had issues.
Are you referring to the shock down stops, Part number #6466 like previously mentioned?
Morten Max
Re: SFC K's Re-Re build
How is the fuel tubing going to crunch? The tubing comes under pressure when the shock is not under load. If it was taking a beating when the shock would go under load I could see some concern but this is just limiting unloaded travel and you are not stressing the tubing much at all. I am going to go with it and see how it works.Asso_man! wrote:I would recommend not to use fuel tubing, as under harsh condition, that fuel tubing will simply crunch and make a mess as well. I woudl use AE ad hoc shock spacers, they are always useful to have at hand. And indeed, I would always attach the bottom of rear shocks to the outer hole and only move the holes on teh shock tower to make adjustments, I've always wondered why there was 3 other holes in teh rear arms, I never ever used these! At rest and fully loaded, arms should be more or less parallel to the ground and when lifted only a tad lower but not much (10-15° maybe) !
-Joe
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Re: SFC K's Re-Re build
It was good enough for the early cars, good enough for me. I kind of like the idea of a bit of cushion, instead of three spacers I would always use two and an oring back in the day.
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