RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I'm still running my xx4 despite trying all the newer cars and really do think its the most fun and easiest to drive when set up, as for setups you can't go too wrong with the set up that is very close to the original worlds set up. There has been setups that use the xxxcr rear end and these are good to so well worth trying both and very easy to change between the 2. Dyno Dan has a good set up on rctech that is quite close to the standard WE setup. The most important things to do in my opnion for racing is to improve the strengh of the stock car especially if there are large jumps on the track, shock tower braces are essential the rear one can then take an absolute flogging the front will still crack but you should be able to finnish the race. Front arm brace that links the 2 arms across the bulkhead this is an ae b3 steel brace that needs to be bent and massaged into shape but once done will last forever, dont use the alloy bulkhead as these can break chassis where they bolt on, there really is heaps of info out there on these cars and i will try to post some pics later.
The slipper is a really big one for reliability and simple cant be locked not with todays power and if it slips too much the steel plate will heat up and cause damage, its one of those things you have to get a feel for but it must slip abit for the sake of the belts, speaking of which try to use only the green losi belts as these are in my opinion the best by far, use the second tightest setting on the rear and you'll be golden (the tightest tends to break belts as there's no give) Tap all grahite holes with that tap screw that losi provide as your chassis will last longer. Everything else should be good they are a great car although not as easy to work on as the newer cars but still very fast and more fun to drive in my opinion. Have fun and if you need any info i'll try to help where i can.

Peter

wow Peter,thanks.
Can you post a picture to see how that b3 brace fits?

mamadoesn`tletme wrote:wow Peter,thanks.
Can you post a picture to see how that b3 brace fits?

I haven't done it personally (yet) but evidently you have to make room for it, either by shaving the front of the bulkhead, the back of the bumper, or both.



I alread plan on making my own replacement Kydex bumper and putting the brace on sl longer hinge pins, leaving the bulkherad alone.

Some additional info/opinion here:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/setupdoublex4we/TipsnTricks/

trimming the bulkhead relieves the stress placed on the hinge pin & brace...let me see if I still have pics of mine in photobucket somewhere...

I've personally seen Peter race his XX4 and I've always been blown away with just how good it is. Ofcourse it helps if you're a great driver (which he IS) but the car looks HOT tearing around the track. It's been a few years now but I remember Pete spanking the modern cars with his XX4.

Hi Jose

I have tried to resize these photos and its tears so i hope you can see what i mean if not pm me your email and i'll just send them to you.

pic shows the ae steel brace bent and massaged you need to trim some off the bumper and bulkhead, hinge pins are ae shock shafts with steel ae small 4-40 nuts locktighted onto the threaded ends and then cut and ground down for more clearance of the bumper.

mamadoesn`tletme wrote:wow Peter,thanks.
Can you post a picture to see how that b3 brace fits?

Thank you Peter! I just have now figure out how to fit them, since I was gonna use CAT Sx from arms, and these are a bit wider.
Can anyone tell me whats the purpose of fitting molded outdrives in the front? Because these are lighter,but why exactly?

Hi Jose

I used to you the cat arms but they dont leave you too much room to fit the brace, you will have to trim abit from the front arms if you want to run it and i like to as it saves the bulkhead from wearing very quickly as in the holes get very loose and sloppy. Molded outdrives are leftovers from the days of 2000mah nicads just lighter weight they are of no advantage at all and the male thingy on the diff halves can break off in big hits plus being molded the diff action never seem as nice as the steel halves.

Peter

Peter. Sure that's not a 10T/T2 brace? I thought the B2/B3/T3 was closer to a direct fit with no bend necessary?

-Brian

I believe the green rear belt is losa3202 ??

Mark Westerfield wrote:Its possible to get some belts, its just a small "timing belt". I have a friend that's a tool maker who is helping locate a source. I sure the problem will be the quantity that will be required to order them.

http://www.beltcorp.com/index.html

slapshot1979 wrote:I believe the green rear belt is losa3202 ??.

I think I saw them in amainhobbies or lapartshouse a couple weeks ago, many they just got sold out and they re-stocking, but I think I saw them.

slapshot1979 wrote:I believe the green rear belt is losa3202??.

Slapshot, you got an inbound PM!

Replied.

I run with XX4, on carpet track I don't have trouble with the belts
but more with the arms and the shocks towers...in graphite.