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rpm worlds

Thanks for posting the updates, really digging the creativity and all the work that has surely gone into this. Surprised at the white parts but shows your patience to get all the right stuff, and it looks really cool with the gold.

I'm guessing from the ruler pictures that you're showing the front and rear track is still within ROAR guidelins (sorry I don't know them, but always read on here that the Klein setup was legal, but those arms on your build are very long!).

More incentive for me to keep going on my own old is new build that I posted the initial teaser of the other day.

It would figure those are the arm mounts he used. I've been looking for those for a long time.

Are those RC10T front arms? And what rear arms did you use? I like how the rear mounts are right up to the tranny.

Thanks so much for all the props gents. I don't have a whole lot of free time these days, but I do like to continue with 2-3 different RC10 projects, all very much inspired by this 10talk site and my childhood roots.

dspy8083 wrote:Are those RC10T front arms? And what rear arms did you use?....

10t front AND rear arms actually. The rears were a used pair that were heavilly worn and actually broken at one point at the inner pin holes. I cut them down and figured out a drill press jig and REALLY CAREFULLY redrilled new holes, essentially shortening the arm. I wish I had photos but I was so concentrating on getting it done in the right alignment I forgot about the photo thing.

I do have a cool new addition I put into it today. I was looking around to decide where I wanted the ESC switch. Looking forward to running this thing, I remember hating switches that end up flopping around after whatever servo tape or zip tie setup fails.

After staring at it a bit, I got an idea. This is my newly positioned Novak switch, firmly held in place with nothing more than a strategically longer screw through the bulkhead..



That sucka aint going anywhere .

Y'ernat Al wrote:This is my newly positioned Novak switch, firmly held in place with nothing more than a strategically longer screw through the bulkhead..

Great idea! Gives it a nice clean look too.

Great idea! I always mount my switches on the gearbox. Easy access and no chance of getting turned off. I might steal that idea for my build.

Thanks for sharing.

where did you get the fiberglass to make the rear tower and trans brace?

Looks awesome BTW, something like this is on my virtual back burner.

+1 on the switch mount! genius!!

ive absolutely love the buggy lights mounted like that on the front arms mounts (?). how is that working with the body, it the lexan light mount under or over the body?

beautiful build!

i gotta give you credit on something that is easily overlooked, the Topic Subject line is great!!! thought was put into every detail.

"..Think Outside the Boxart, Old is Newdillac, Worldinger Build..."

jwscab wrote:where did you get the fiberglass to make the rear tower and trans brace?....

Craigslist. I bought a whole box of RC10 garbage, and it included these two home made (dirt oval or possibly sprint car) chassis plates.

jon burrows wrote:how is that working with the body, it the lexan light mount under or over the body?

I have a Protech I body that I started painting this weekend. So the lights will be over/through it, but exactly how is yet to be determined.

The thread title reflects that this is very much a product of rc10talk, and the sort of cars I am a fan of:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15831
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16520
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13498
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=81&t=1002
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=1649
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=1726
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5483
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5500&hilit=Masami+Detroit
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5503

Right now with the FT B4 shocks all around (.89" and 1.18" shock bodies with unobtainium .71" and 1.02" shock shafts), and no internal or external limiters, I have:

- A ride height tub clearance of 30mm at bones level.

- The tub hits the ground just as the shocks fully compress, so I think I will add an o ring or two on the outside to keep the chassis from slapping.


- At full droop, front tub clearance is 50 mm, and rear clearance is about 55-60mm depending on which tires I have on it. (The CVD bone ends are still plenty free at this point). I am wondering aloud how much droop will be too much, but I have it if I need it I guess.


I am going to learn a lot about tuning, trying to teach myself how to drive a modern track, and try to get this thing to work. It will be very fun I think. Any opinions (without knowing anything about track type or my rust-laden driving skills ) are encouraged.

I'm dusting off the airbrush for the painting of a Protech I, so stay tuned.

I thought about a potential cvd solution for you. You clearly need a cvd that is longer than a B4 cvd. X-factory has 2 axles that are longer that they use on their X-6 car. One is #5661 axle which bolts directly to the B4 cvd ends and are a bit longer. The other axle they have is #5800 which is longer still. I don't know how much longer but if you know how much longer you need and call X-Factory I'm sure they can tell you how much longer each of their axles are.

I am plotting making custom rear arm mounts on my goldie using T arms. I will make the inner mounts so the pin is very close to the stealth so I can fit B4 CVD bones. I am shooting for 9.800" width too which it should fly..... I will send pics when it is done.

fredswain wrote:I thought about a potential cvd solution for you. You clearly need a cvd that is longer than a B4 cvd. X-factory has 2 axles that are longer that they use on their X-6 car. One is #5661 axle which bolts directly to the B4 cvd ends and are a bit longer. The other axle they have is #5800 which is longer still. I don't know how much longer but if you know how much longer you need and call X-Factory I'm sure they can tell you how much longer each of their axles are.

Thanks Fred, but I've test drove it with my fabbed cut down and brass tubed/jb welded bones. It wasn't that hard to make a set, but I'm going to re-do the rear end to make it more tunable as far as toe-in is concerned. I have an idea or two. Thanks for the tip. This one ain't done yet.

In the meantime, I got the car built and ran a few charges through it. It puts a big smile on my face to drive . Here are some pics. I have a part write up that I'll post too.



...about the front tower. I had the thing apart in interest of making a new tower and my 3 yo walked off with the retrofitted 10T tower and I haven't seen it since. He probably thought that "it loowk ugleeee daddy" or something. It is a buggy, so I couldn't argue (you can't argue with a 3 yo). So I cut one by hand to my own design.