RC10 runner/racer
- Charlie don't surf
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- Charlie don't surf
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Re: RC10 runner/racer
Thanks, that should fix up my steering. All I'll have to do is get the other couple parts and the wide gt axles.
Also last night I installed the lunsford turnbuckles but realized I'm missing the one I was using on the rear's pair. So I'll have to find that when I go home. Other than that it's coming along. I'll work on tearing down the transmission tonight and seeing if I need to replace anything.
Also last night I installed the lunsford turnbuckles but realized I'm missing the one I was using on the rear's pair. So I'll have to find that when I go home. Other than that it's coming along. I'll work on tearing down the transmission tonight and seeing if I need to replace anything.
- JHarris
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Re: RC10 runner/racer
Here's the latest creation from the Harris garage. I'm working on getting a video put together of a run from last Sunday. The car uses stock suspension except that I use threaded shock bodies and the front uses the .89 B4 shocks. It really doesn't drive any better than it did with the .71's. The rear uses TT wheels (no, they don't fit the taper without reaming them) and the front uses B4 wheels by using the wide GT axles. Very simple and very straight forward.
Re: RC10 runner/racer
That's a nice car you got there.
I'm going with b44 cva's because I have one universal and one dogbone, so I'd need to replace them anyways, plus one carrier doesn't hold the bushing at all. So might as well go for something modern and easy to fix if it breaks.
I tore down the transmission and it's in perfect condition, the diff needs the rings sanded and it needs ball bearings throughout, otherwise it's perfect.
I'm going with b44 cva's because I have one universal and one dogbone, so I'd need to replace them anyways, plus one carrier doesn't hold the bushing at all. So might as well go for something modern and easy to fix if it breaks.
I tore down the transmission and it's in perfect condition, the diff needs the rings sanded and it needs ball bearings throughout, otherwise it's perfect.
- JK Racing
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Re: RC10 runner/racer
JHarris, who did the machining on the chassis? I'm looking to do that on my next build too...
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
- Charlie don't surf
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Re: RC10 runner/racer
That looks like the car he was building for Ruona-JK Racing wrote:JHarris, who did the machining on the chassis? I'm looking to do that on my next build too...
- JHarris
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Re: RC10 runner/racer
The milling was done by Jake.
The car is very similar to Ruona's cars, but not the same. Jason's cars are 100% pre-94, all the way down to the RCPS turnbuckles and white AE ball cups. Mine uses Atlas towers, threaded shocks, Lundsford turnbuckles and JConcepts ball cups. Similar, but not the same.
The car is very similar to Ruona's cars, but not the same. Jason's cars are 100% pre-94, all the way down to the RCPS turnbuckles and white AE ball cups. Mine uses Atlas towers, threaded shocks, Lundsford turnbuckles and JConcepts ball cups. Similar, but not the same.
- Grizzly.RC10
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- Ruffy
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Re: RC10 runner/racer
Agree, this car is absolutely beautiful!!!
And when he let me drive it it drives so easily, you can put it anywhere you want and it works well!
Congrats Jeff!
And when he let me drive it it drives so easily, you can put it anywhere you want and it works well!
Congrats Jeff!
Re: RC10 runner/racer
Bad news is I'm not going to be able to make it to the Asylum for the grand opening race. Good news is progress on the rc10 is being made.
Today I found a thread about using Traxxas bellcranks and realized I had some lying around at home. So I'm going to use though. I also picked up b4 rear hubs today and ordered all the bearings I'll need. Once I get the bearings I'll be able to put the transmission back together and finish the steering setup. After that I'll just need electronics, b44 cva's, wide gt axles, wheels, tires, and body. So it's actually getting pretty close.
Here's a picture of the steering setup without bearings.

Today I found a thread about using Traxxas bellcranks and realized I had some lying around at home. So I'm going to use though. I also picked up b4 rear hubs today and ordered all the bearings I'll need. Once I get the bearings I'll be able to put the transmission back together and finish the steering setup. After that I'll just need electronics, b44 cva's, wide gt axles, wheels, tires, and body. So it's actually getting pretty close.
Here's a picture of the steering setup without bearings.

Re: RC10 runner/racer
Got my bearings today, transmission is all together. Steering isn't quite there yet...
Got the bearings in.

And the big problem, the camber link hits the steering link. So i'm going to need to drill a new hole for the camber link a tad bit out and up, hopefully doesn't affect handling in a negative way.

Got the bearings in.

And the big problem, the camber link hits the steering link. So i'm going to need to drill a new hole for the camber link a tad bit out and up, hopefully doesn't affect handling in a negative way.

- jwscab
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Re: RC10 runner/racer
that should be fine, moving the link up and away. if you still run into trouble, you can run the stock ball cups if you have some, either on both places, or possibly just one place, since they are small profile.
the other option is to trim(grind/file,etc) the bellcranks down on the bottom side so the bearing sits on the 'fat' part of the bellcrank, and not the projected molding, but I think you need to run a 5/16" (or 8mm) drill through the hole to remove the bearing stop inside.
if you find that moving the ball link removes some handling, you can use B4 front c-hubs, which give you more positions to place the outer ball joint, effectively lengthening the upper link.
the other option is to trim(grind/file,etc) the bellcranks down on the bottom side so the bearing sits on the 'fat' part of the bellcrank, and not the projected molding, but I think you need to run a 5/16" (or 8mm) drill through the hole to remove the bearing stop inside.
if you find that moving the ball link removes some handling, you can use B4 front c-hubs, which give you more positions to place the outer ball joint, effectively lengthening the upper link.
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