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I just put my stealth in my car but it seems like I can hear it slipping. How do I know how much to tighten the nut and how do I know when the slipper pad needs to be replaced?

Hold the tires and try to spin the slipper by hand. If the slipper is moving, and the tires are not,, it is your differential slipping. If the nut is not moving, it is your slipper, tighten it a little at a time until it does not slip.

Once you are on the surface you are going to run, back it off so it slips for about a foot. You can run it tight, but that will burn up your internal gears faster.

ED

soniccj5 wrote:Hold the tires and try to spin the slipper by hand. If the slipper is moving, and the tires are not,, it is your differential slipping. If the nut is not moving, it is your slipper, tighten it a little at a time until it does not slip.

Once you are on the surface you are going to run, back it off so it slips for about a foot. You can run it tight, but that will burn up your internal gears faster.

ED

I tightened it all the way then backed it off a 1/4 turn. Seems better now but I think I like the more instant power of the 6 gear. Unless there is still a problem with it. I will try buying new B4 parts and see what happens.

You can tighten up the slipper and get instant power from a stealth, but it could wear out your gears faster.

Can someone tell me the differences in the various versions of the Stealth? I've searched and seen references to a 2.25 Stealth, the RPM stealth etc.

Different gear ratios.


2:25 RC-10
2:40 RC-10 B2/B3
2:60 RC-10B4
2:65 RPM RC-10T conversion

soniccj5 wrote:Different gear ratios.


2:25 RC-10
2:40 RC-10 B2/B3
2:60 RC-10B4
2:65 RPM RC-10T conversion

1.96 - rpm conversion
2.61 - mip changebox

Excellent - is there any way to tell which one I have?

Just post an image of it, we can tell you all you.need from there-

RC104ever wrote:Excellent - is there any way to tell which one I have?

count the gears and do the maths

Paul

originally posted this in another thread, so easy enough to copy and paste:


original 2.25 stealth available in:
rc10, rc10t

2.4 ratio stealth available in:
b2, b3, t3

b2 has same slipper as original stealth, b3 and T3 look similar, but are larger.

2.60 ratio available in:
t2-unique to t2, same slipper as original stealth
b4, b4.1, t4, t4.1, sc10?

the original stealth had the idler fixed to it's shaft, and the bearings inserted into the case.
all later stealth transmissions had an idler that had the bearings installed in the gear, and the shaft inserted into the case.

top gears are all the same, idlers I believe have the same number of teeth in all flavors.

diff gear was 45 for 2.25, 48 tooth for 2.40, 52 tooth for 2.6 ratio.

gear diffs are/were used in the sc10 as opposed to ball diffs.

Here is mine. I was able to install it in my B stamp chassis with no mods.

that is the original stealth version, standard rc10. 2.25:1 ratio.

the trans has both a diff and a slipper, so you will need to figure out which part is slipping. the diff is adjusted through the dogbone drive, and the slipper is the top external nut on the spur gear.

take a look on associated's website and look up an rc10 manual that show the stealth assembly. you should be able to figure everything out from there.

http://www.teamassociated.com/manuals/RC10/

look under the team car or the world's car.

Awesome. Thanks, I will look it up. Didn't know there would be a diff adjustment too. Which is technically faster the original 6 gear or this Stealth, assuming all else is equal?

Your stealth is faster, just based off friction and internal ratio-