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Nah, you are understanding the information I've posted, but probably not seeing everything I was looking at, if you haven't seen this other thread:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=12465&hilit=yoke

it ends up being very complicated mixing and matching parts for the 870C, unless you do the things Ed did or Glowster with the kyosho parts. I purchased the TC5 parts based on some dimensions and for testing purposes.

what I found is that if you use tc5 axles, with 6x10 flanged bearings, and lengthen the dogbones, they will fit in the 870c with some shimming, and little bit of modification. This stuff is within my capability, so it's not a huge expense. My car had banged up bent universals and worn out bearings anyway, so I was looking to find a reasonable replacements. I plan to lengthen the dogbones.

I'm thinking, but not sure, that the tc5 axles were probably based on the yokomo drift/on road cars......not sure on the length, but the bone end fits in the yokomo drive cup like it was made for it. associated probably re-used alot of dimensions since they were very close companies at one point.

Ed comments are I think because this comes up from time to time, and it always involves custom stuff, which most people aren't well adept at. That, and there are tires and wheels that are available here and there, either replacement 2.0 tires, or occasionally the 2.2 wheels that fit the car outright, which is usually the cheaper options.

jwscab wrote:
Ed comments are I think because this comes up from time to time, and it always involves custom stuff, which most people aren't well adept at. That, and there are tires and wheels that are available here and there, either replacement 2.0 tires, or occasionally the 2.2 wheels that fit the car outright, which is usually the cheaper options.

I understand. I am willing to do custom stuff, and I have time, so I don't mind. However, I do know my limits. I'm going to try out what I have on the way, and post up on it. In the meantime, if you know where I should look for tires, please let me know, I can do that too....

Hey Toast'ie, I'm sorry if my frankness came accross as a disencouragement. I merely wanted to share the feeling I got left with after my own experience with a similar conversion. But yes, I enjoyed working on it for a long while and was real proud at first when I got it done. secondly the remarks about what is not going to w ork: just to keep you from going the wrong way and spend on stuff which won't be of use.

To show again I'm really wanting to help: can you take a measurement on both your front and rear axles please? The one I need is from the center of the crosspin (at the sphere end) to the bearing face. I think I can put the info together and tell you which CVD axle combo will work and what extra parts you need.

Bscotti may be able to help too and Mike westerfield: he has the kyosho combo on his 870C I heard

Hey Ed,

I got this from a guy on EBay I bought parts from , and he said this combo works, though with the 73mm shafts, I think he is running the front in the 'wide' configuration:


Hey Bud, listen I got the combo for you to run hexes, LA257 up front and UM510 out back.. use LA253 spacer pack for shimming (perfectly btw)and throw on some kyosho clamp hexes, 1.5million dollars later you can run hexes on your 870c done and proven its awesome.

just as another data point to look into.

I think the first lazer zx-5 front CVD's work for the standard width front of an 870C, but let's wait till TC comes up with those measurements to be sure.
(My own 870C came with the wide front installed by the previous owner, and I changed the rear for the narrow offset 2.2 wheels: that's why I don't know what length UJ's are on the original 870C )

1.5 million is a bit exagerated, but all together, including shipping etc I think you will end up at 150 or 200 dollar at least for 4 CVD's, a couple different length extra axles, 4 new wheels and 4 new tires and sponges, 4 hex clamps, collars and crosspins, plus maybe 4 10X5 bearings for the front and a pair of front knuckles.
It took me several tries before I had something working, equally wide in front and rear but still legal, and I was lucky enough to have stash of parts to pick from rather than to have to buy and try.

I'm in class right now, but when I get home I'll measure. Thank you all.

OK, a couple of things:


1. I wasn't offended by any frankness. I learn well this way, and like I said before, I am new at this. I answered in a way to generate clarity, nothing more.

2. Axle/universal length:
all of the differentials on mine are the same length. From pin to pivit point is 68mm. From pin to bearing face is 74 mm. Value on that is approx (using an angle ruler) because I do not have a micrometer (?). The value on the pivit point is exact, that was done at new era.

3. Sus-arms: approx 70mm (same rule of measurement applies as #2) they are all the same length.

From what I can tell, these are all the measurements of a stock bare bones no mod yz10.

Thanks folks. We should maybe divide this thread, as it has gone off topic, and it is valuable on its own....

thanks for the dimensions: I have to go to work now but let me know where the new thread is and I'll post inthere over the weekend.
Put a picture of your car in it with a good view on the current wheels also please

Mr. ED wrote:thanks for the dimensions: I have to go to work now but let me know where the new thread is and I'll post inthere over the weekend.
Put a picture of your car in it with a good view on the current wheels also please

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=15474&p=151114#p151114

I'll take some pictures when I get home from work and post them up.

Ron

hey if u havent gotten any soultions yet this is what i did i went an bought four 12 mm hexxes an drilled out the center to slide them over the stock axles an the i bought a set of four hot bodies 2.2 buggy rims now i can run any tire rim combo as long as its got the 12mm hubs if u need some pics u can email me at [email protected] an can show u what it looks like the olny other thing i did was to trim off the back side of the rin so there was no rubbing hope this helps peace