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Posted: **Sun Dec 10, 2023 6:31 am**

So are you going to stay with that Futaba receiver and servo? It all works, has the same wire order in the plugs, etc.

Posted: **Sun Dec 10, 2023 2:52 pm**

The blue receiver and servo with blue plug use the newer "Z" plug. The Z plug has the common wiring format, which follows that of Futaba, Hitec, JR, etc. As I said before, other (non Z) plugs will require a little trimming.

The black Airtronics receiver and black plug servo use the older Airtronics wiring format, which has a different wiring pinout.

I tend to avoid older Airtronics servos and receivers, just to avoid accidentally damaging stuff. Mixing them incorrectly will definitely fry a servo and possibly damage the receiver and/or esc.

Posted: **Sun Dec 10, 2023 3:29 pm**

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Sun Dec 10, 2023 6:31 am So are you going yo stay with that Futaba receiver and servo? It all works, has the same wire order in the plugs, etc.

I really want to go back to the Airtronics Rx that matches the radio and servo's that I bought with the kit in '96. Hoping to get the pin out right this time.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Sun Dec 10, 2023 2:52 pm The blue receiver and servo with blue plug use the newer "Z" plug. The Z plug has the common wiring format, which follows that of Futaba, Hitec, JR, etc. As I said before, other (non Z) plugs will require a little trimming.

The black Airtronics receiver and black plug servo use the older Airtronics wiring format, which has a different wiring pinout.

I tend to avoid older Airtronics servos and receivers, just to avoid accidentally damaging stuff. Mixing them incorrectly will definitely fry a servo and possibly damage the receiver and/or esc.

To me, that's crazy that they used the same model numbers for the Rx, and Servo, even though they have a different pin layout. Any change in design should've been denoted with a model number change, weird stuff.

Thanks guys!

Posted: **Sun Dec 10, 2023 3:44 pm**

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sun Dec 10, 2023 3:29 pm To me, that's crazy that they used the same model numbers for the Rx, and Servo, even though they have a different pin layout. Any change in design should've been denoted with a model number change, weird stuff.

Thanks guys!

I would think so as well.

But they did change case color, plug color and design, and wire color.

I was in a RC break at the time, so I don't remember if there was any announcement or other way to differentiate at the time.

Posted: **Sun Dec 10, 2023 4:00 pm**

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Sun Dec 10, 2023 3:44 pm
GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sun Dec 10, 2023 3:29 pm To me, that's crazy that they used the same model numbers for the Rx, and Servo, even though they have a different pin layout. Any change in design should've been denoted with a model number change, weird stuff.

Thanks guys!
I would think so as well.

But they did change case color, plug color and design, and wire color.

I was in a RC break at the time, so I don't remember if there was any announcement or other way to differentiate at the time.

I guess the newer blue Rx is from post-2002 then, and if I use the servo that it comes with, I should be ok. Being able to use the original Airtronics Tx, is the nostalgia factor for me.

Thanks for the info @juicedcoupe!

Posted: **Sun Dec 10, 2023 4:26 pm**

Got the same transmitter running a team car.

Posted: **Sun Dec 10, 2023 4:38 pm**

MarkyDents wrote: ↑Sun Dec 10, 2023 4:26 pm Got the same transmitter running a team car.
IMG_5794.jpeg
IMG_4603.jpeg

Looks great! I like how the ESC is on the bulkhead too.

Posted: **Tue Dec 12, 2023 5:27 pm**

Getting ready to connect the ESC to the stock DS Spec motor.

Rooster motor wires are yellow and blue.

Stock MSC had the red/black wires.

Preparing for connecting the blue and yellow to match.

When I saw this:

Amazon had (120) 0.1uF NP caps, for $7 prime free shipping, can't imagine what DigiKey and Mouser would've cost for the shipping alone, when I really only need (3) of these.

Posted: **Tue Dec 12, 2023 7:05 pm**

Once you see the ones from Amazon, you'll understand the price difference.

I bought some cheap ones on Amazon and the leads are tiny and short. I've used some of them but they don't compare to higher quality ones.

Posted: **Tue Dec 12, 2023 10:29 pm**

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Tue Dec 12, 2023 7:05 pm Once you see the ones from Amazon, you'll understand the price difference.

I bought some cheap ones on Amazon and the leads are tiny and short. I've used some of them but they don't compare to higher quality ones.

I'll have (117) extras in case anything were to go wrong

. Can't imagine paying over $20 for (3) 0.1uF ceramic caps though, from Mouser or Digi-Key, for just the shipping.

Posted: **Fri Dec 15, 2023 3:58 pm**

According to the Rooster manual, I'm supposed to use (3) 0.1uF caps.

I have (2) of the caps setup from + to -, but I can't see a third ground tab like in the manual.

Does anyone know where the third cap would go on a stock motor?

EDIT: Supposed to solder the third to the can of the motor, missed the * in the manual. Doing it now.

Posted: **Fri Dec 15, 2023 4:29 pm**

Only one cap goes across the positive and negetive tabs.

The other two will go from the positive and negetive tabs to ground.

Motors with crimped endbells don't have ground tabs. You must attach directly to the can (it takes some practice).

Here are a couple of mine.

Posted: **Fri Dec 15, 2023 4:40 pm**

Nice work @juicedcoupe! Those Amazon caps did have some seriously short leads, nearly too short. I think I got it though.

The bullet connectors that come with the Rooster aren't a very clean look, but I left them that way for era correctness.

The new Rx should be here sometime today, looking forward to testing all this.

Thanks again @juicedcoupe

Posted: **Fri Dec 15, 2023 5:13 pm**

The pile has landed.

Time to see if any of it works

. The wrapper is still on the Rx I was looking for, and the servo connected looks NOS too.

Posted: **Fri Dec 15, 2023 5:15 pm**

Those are generic bullet terminals, from the auto parts store.

It would have originally came with this type. They are open barrel type terminals (require the correct type of crimper) and have silicone sheaths.

The terminals themselves are cheap and easy to find. If you don't already have a open barrel type crimper (Molex type), it might be cost prohibitive.

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