RC10 C-stamp - Championship Edition

[Frankentruck]

So are you going to stay with that Futaba receiver and servo? It all works, has the same wire order in the plugs, etc.

[juicedcoupe]

The blue receiver and servo with blue plug use the newer "Z" plug. The Z plug has the common wiring format, which follows that of Futaba, Hitec, JR, etc. As I said before, other (non Z) plugs will require a little trimming.

The black Airtronics receiver and black plug servo use the older Airtronics wiring format, which has a different wiring pinout.

I tend to avoid older Airtronics servos and receivers, just to avoid accidentally damaging stuff. Mixing them incorrectly will definitely fry a servo and possibly damage the receiver and/or esc.

[GreenBar0n]

So are you going yo stay with that Futaba receiver and servo? It all works, has the same wire order in the plugs, etc.

I really want to go back to the Airtronics Rx that matches the radio and servo's that I bought with the kit in '96. Hoping to get the pin out right this time.

The blue receiver and servo with blue plug use the newer "Z" plug. The Z plug has the common wiring format, which follows that of Futaba, Hitec, JR, etc. As I said before, other (non Z) plugs will require a little trimming.

The black Airtronics receiver and black plug servo use the older Airtronics wiring format, which has a different wiring pinout.

I tend to avoid older Airtronics servos and receivers, just to avoid accidentally damaging stuff. Mixing them incorrectly will definitely fry a servo and possibly damage the receiver and/or esc.

To me, that's crazy that they used the same model numbers for the Rx, and Servo, even though they have a different pin layout. Any change in design should've been denoted with a model number change, weird stuff.

Thanks guys!

[juicedcoupe]

To me, that's crazy that they used the same model numbers for the Rx, and Servo, even though they have a different pin layout. Any change in design should've been denoted with a model number change, weird stuff.

Thanks guys!

I would think so as well.

But they did change case color, plug color and design, and wire color.

I was in a RC break at the time, so I don't remember if there was any announcement or other way to differentiate at the time.

[GreenBar0n]

To me, that's crazy that they used the same model numbers for the Rx, and Servo, even though they have a different pin layout. Any change in design should've been denoted with a model number change, weird stuff.

Thanks guys!

I would think so as well.

But they did change case color, plug color and design, and wire color.

I was in a RC break at the time, so I don't remember if there was any announcement or other way to differentiate at the time.

I guess the newer blue Rx is from post-2002 then, and if I use the servo that it comes with, I should be ok. Being able to use the original Airtronics Tx, is the nostalgia factor for me.


Thanks for the info @juicedcoupe!

[MarkyDents]

Got the same transmitter running a team car.

[GreenBar0n]

Got the same transmitter running a team car.
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Looks great! I like how the ESC is on the bulkhead too.

[GreenBar0n]

Getting ready to connect the ESC to the stock DS Spec motor.

Rooster motor wires are yellow and blue.


Stock MSC had the red/black wires.


Preparing for connecting the blue and yellow to match.


When I saw this:


Amazon had (120) 0.1uF NP caps, for $7 prime free shipping, can't imagine what DigiKey and Mouser would've cost for the shipping alone, when I really only need (3) of these.

[juicedcoupe]

Once you see the ones from Amazon, you'll understand the price difference.

I bought some cheap ones on Amazon and the leads are tiny and short. I've used some of them but they don't compare to higher quality ones.

[GreenBar0n]

Once you see the ones from Amazon, you'll understand the price difference.

I bought some cheap ones on Amazon and the leads are tiny and short. I've used some of them but they don't compare to higher quality ones.

I'll have (117) extras in case anything were to go wrong . Can't imagine paying over $20 for (3) 0.1uF ceramic caps though, from Mouser or Digi-Key, for just the shipping.

[GreenBar0n]

According to the Rooster manual, I'm supposed to use (3) 0.1uF caps.


I have (2) of the caps setup from + to -, but I can't see a third ground tab like in the manual.


Does anyone know where the third cap would go on a stock motor?

EDIT: Supposed to solder the third to the can of the motor, missed the * in the manual. Doing it now.

[juicedcoupe]

Only one cap goes across the positive and negetive tabs.

The other two will go from the positive and negetive tabs to ground.

Motors with crimped endbells don't have ground tabs. You must attach directly to the can (it takes some practice).

Here are a couple of mine.

[GreenBar0n]

Nice work @juicedcoupe! Those Amazon caps did have some seriously short leads, nearly too short. I think I got it though.


The bullet connectors that come with the Rooster aren't a very clean look, but I left them that way for era correctness.

The new Rx should be here sometime today, looking forward to testing all this.

Thanks again @juicedcoupe

[GreenBar0n]

The pile has landed.








Time to see if any of it works . The wrapper is still on the Rx I was looking for, and the servo connected looks NOS too.

[juicedcoupe]

Those are generic bullet terminals, from the auto parts store.

It would have originally came with this type. They are open barrel type terminals (require the correct type of crimper) and have silicone sheaths.

The terminals themselves are cheap and easy to find. If you don't already have a open barrel type crimper (Molex type), it might be cost prohibitive.