How much Rit Dye to buy?
- Synergy
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How much Rit Dye to buy?
I'm going to get me some liquid Rit Dye but how much should I buy , I want enough to dye all the white parts (less shock towers) of a standard RC10 that should be more than enough, but how much is that
Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.
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Here's my TC Showroom
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=18028
DYE JOB
GRIZZLY here, being the frugal, cheap type that I am,you may want to consider making s large batch and when finished cool it and store in a good, clean two or three liter bottle untill you have more to do, Just make sure its sealed good and store somewhere dry,cool and out of the way. Hope this is of use to you, have fun, GRIZZLY
IT'S BEEN A LONG, HARD ROAD. I HAVE RISEN FROM THE ASHES.
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for just the plastic parts for one buggy, half a bag of the powder or about half a bottle of liquid is more than enough. you wanna have enough water so your parts are all covered up and have decent 'swimming room'.
bring the water to boil then remove from heat and let settle to add parts and dye, return to boil. (much less potential for messy splatters when you add the dye AFTER the parts) be very carefull about splatters and mess made with the dye... if it boils too violently it will leave little tiny splatters everywhere and if you use a lid over the pot be very carefull the condensation/drips from the inside of the lid dont get on the counter or your clothes when you remove it.
i boil for about 3-5 minutes stirring fequently to keep the boil mess down and swish the parts around, turn off the heat and let the parts sit for anywhere between 5 minutes and half an hour. then i return to boil and let cool again before i remove the parts.
shock towers take alot longer than plastic. i'll leave the shock towers in after taking the plastic out and let sit for a long time.
get some rubber dishwashing gloves and clean the parts with a vegetable brush and soap after they are dyed. if you dont there will be a dirty dye film on all the parts that will transfer to your hands and clothing etc.
bring the water to boil then remove from heat and let settle to add parts and dye, return to boil. (much less potential for messy splatters when you add the dye AFTER the parts) be very carefull about splatters and mess made with the dye... if it boils too violently it will leave little tiny splatters everywhere and if you use a lid over the pot be very carefull the condensation/drips from the inside of the lid dont get on the counter or your clothes when you remove it.
i boil for about 3-5 minutes stirring fequently to keep the boil mess down and swish the parts around, turn off the heat and let the parts sit for anywhere between 5 minutes and half an hour. then i return to boil and let cool again before i remove the parts.
shock towers take alot longer than plastic. i'll leave the shock towers in after taking the plastic out and let sit for a long time.
get some rubber dishwashing gloves and clean the parts with a vegetable brush and soap after they are dyed. if you dont there will be a dirty dye film on all the parts that will transfer to your hands and clothing etc.
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i get the water to a boil, remove from heat just long enough to add the stuff, then return to boil.Ron Jeremy wrote:Great thread. I was considering starting one similar myself.
Do you bring the mixture to a boil, then dunk?
Not that hot?
How long do you let the stuff hang out in the mixture?
How do you test that it has penetrated deep enough?
i'll let it sit for awhile, but i usually dont have it on heat for longer than 5 minutes at a time. the parts will color even if the water aint boiling. i have dyed parts before by just bringing the water to a boil first and adding the parts without bringing it to a boil again.
you can always pull a part out and rinse it off in the sink to check color. for anything but black make sure to remove the parts and rinse while they are a tad undercolored, over time they will darken. (i have a once blue, now purple rpm10t...)
on rpm's website they have a really nice how-to on dying parts.
- Synergy
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Thank you, I will order some today.
Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.
Here's my TC Showroom
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=18028
Here's my TC Showroom
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=18028
- Eau Rouge
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A couple of good dye tips...
Cheap, aluminum foil tins found in the cooking section at the grocery store (like the kind used for roasting a turkey) make great dye tubs. They are very cheap and come in 2-packs, and you can get them in many different sizes. I use small ones as parts separators when dismantling cars. They work great on the stove top to boil right in, and you ou don't have to ruin any good cookware.
Also, if the weather isn't too foul, a small Smokey Joe BBQ grille makes a great dye warmer. If you have been punched too many times by the missus for getting spots of dye all over the kitchen, it's a great option.
A gallon milk jug makes a great storage vessel for used dye. If you do it a lot, one pack of dye goes a LONG way. A used 2-liter bottle top cup off of the bottle makes a perfect funnel for transferring the used dye into the milk jug.
d
Cheap, aluminum foil tins found in the cooking section at the grocery store (like the kind used for roasting a turkey) make great dye tubs. They are very cheap and come in 2-packs, and you can get them in many different sizes. I use small ones as parts separators when dismantling cars. They work great on the stove top to boil right in, and you ou don't have to ruin any good cookware.
Also, if the weather isn't too foul, a small Smokey Joe BBQ grille makes a great dye warmer. If you have been punched too many times by the missus for getting spots of dye all over the kitchen, it's a great option.
A gallon milk jug makes a great storage vessel for used dye. If you do it a lot, one pack of dye goes a LONG way. A used 2-liter bottle top cup off of the bottle makes a perfect funnel for transferring the used dye into the milk jug.
d
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