YZ10 Help

[fred2000]

Hi. New to the forum. Just dug out my YZ-10 and thinking about getting it rolling again.

When I left my YZ10, I had a bent front left drive shaft that resulted in the front wheel bearings blowing up with some (a lot of) regulaity. The reason why I didn't replace it was that I couldn't find parts to save my life at the time.

So anyone know where I can get a set of front universal drive shafts for the YZ10? Also does anyone have a manual for the YZ10? I bought mine second hand and if I start cleaning things up, it would be great to know how to put everything back together again.

I guess the other question is, what currently available parts work with the YZ10? Some one said Kyosho universals and wheels work? Can I buy new Associated shocks - will they work (I still have the originals - I had zero $$ when I was running it and never traded the yokomos out).

Lastly, if anyone has any YZ10 tips or helpful resources I would love to hear about them. I think I need all the help I can get.

Thanks, Fred

[YZ-10]

Hi and welcome, I have the parts and manuals drop me a PM to exchange emails

[Mr. ED]

Put up some pics of what you have fred; we don't care about the dust, just want to see what year YZ110 you have etc as the U-J lengths changed around a bit.
Wellcome

[fred2000]

I will work on getting some pictures in this thread. I have to apologize as it has been in a box for a long long time.

Will post soon, Fred

[GJW]

a lot of us on this forum restore them fred, so we have seen all forms my friend..dont be shy

[fred2000]

Alright, here you go - http://yz10return.blogspot.com/

I figured I would post up on a blog since I figure I might try and track the progress that way. I will try and post up more pictures soon.

And any help or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks, Fred

[uzzi]

To answer your question of the RPM gearbox being a hop-up in your blog. The original yokomo gearbox was made of a magnesium metal....very light but also very fragile. They use to break where you bolt on the shock tower. The semi open nature of the gearbox also made it very prone to debris being caught in the pulley and belts (esp the back one). The overall quality (crappy bearings, leaky shocks and soft drive shafts) of the car was very suspect however it did not stop it winning many races (after strapping on some hop-ups).

In regard to the steering hub being an Andy's one...I would keep that on. The original Magnesium one also broke with great frequency. Hard to see whats wrong with the steering set-up for it to rub.

[GJW]

wheel set here
http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-YOKOMO-YZ10-SET-OF-4-WHEELS-WITH-MOUNTED-TIRES_W0QQitemZ300277047037QQihZ020QQcategoryZ34061QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[fred2000]

Thanks for the feedback.

I will take some closer picture of the steering set up so that anyone with any ideas as to why there is interference can chime in and offer advice. I am wondering if it is a RPM conflict as I am sure the original did not interfere.

Thanks for the answers, uzzi. The hopped up competitive YZ is what I am looking for - it was what I wanted to do when I was running years ago.

Lastly, again thanks for the help and question answering, do current tires fit the rims? I am under the impression that the answer is no, but I thought I would ask.

Thanks,

Jon

[Mr. ED]

It is possible to mount different U-J's or CVD's but you have to find out which will fit lengthwise for this model (870C). consider replacing the cast carriers for modern alternatives too: this allows you to adjust for different axle lengths and wheelsoofsets available to you.
With 4 different axle lengths for the ultima RB5 and ZX 5 , the manuals at kyosho usa 's site are a good start point. The ball-end and drive pin fit the the yokomo outdrives (with a little play) also. The lengths noted in these manuals are from the center of the drive pin at the ball end to the hinge point of the CVD.

The goal of the exchange is to allow mounting of 12mm hexes and M4 lock nuts: for which wheels with different offsets are available (though you might have to mix brands to get the desired stance in front and rear)

Here 's my own project for your inspiration:
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=6022

it uses tamiya dogbones and modern HPI or kyosho axles in the rear and tamiya cvd's in the front, but the standard 11x5 bearings were too thick, so I had to put kyosho steeringknuckles with 10x5 bearings.

[bscotti]

I know the Kyosho swap works, but don't know the exact part numbers. Supposedly all that is necessary are new universals and then you can run current wheels. I'm working on something using Yokomo parts but I'm not ready to release it ... more measuring and thinking on my part is necessary to make sure I have all areas covered and that it actually works!

[Mr. ED]

I know the Kyosho swap works, but don't know the exact part numbers. Supposedly all that is necessary are new universals and then you can run current wheels. I'm working on something using Yokomo parts but I'm not ready to release it ... more measuring and thinking on my part is necessary to make sure I have all areas covered and that it actually works!

It's a pitty theses old cars didn't have CVD's so you could just swap the axle end

[uzzi]

If you are thinking of running modern CVDs you may consider using 12mm hexes with a clamping feature (as used on Tamiya touring cars) this may allow abit more free play (adjust with shims). They are actually running on 10x5 bearings as per original Yoke.

[Mr. ED]

I aleady use the clamp type hexes as they reduce wheel wobble a lot compared to older style standard hexes