Runner Number 1---and a few questions

[toybaron]

This car was assembled from mostly extra parts I had and filled in with a few items bought or traded for. I wanted to get started with a runner built to the early kit specs and then make upgrades based upon how the chassis handled and what was available over time...All white plastic parts in decent shape...pretty smooth running 6 gear transmission and I took apart and re-assembled using Halsey's tips--not every step of course but enough to get the feel required. As-run pretty worn tires and wheels--obvious replacements on deck...Period batteries that actually provided about 12 mins on a full charge..."Portable" test rig electronics...

Overall this chassis ran pretty well. Had a similar feel to entry level Tamiya 2wd cars...Not impressively fast but I suspect the tires have much to do with that and the steering feels limited--turning radius way to wide.

All in all a lot of fun and I can see the addiction to these! I will be swapping tires, adding new linkage and ball cups and then running it again to see what those changes yield. I do not some help on improving turning radius and anything else that members care to comment on to improve this rig would be greatly appreciated!

1/ I am not sure what this body is, or where I got it....anyone??
2/ How about the wing--supersize anyone??
3/ What can be done to improve the amount of turn on the steering servo? Somehow I feel I am not getting full rotation, but I have checked the the radio settings are tuned to allow max...At neutral, should the servo linkage attached to the servo always be at "12" o clock? and which hole on the steering bellcrank might improve turning?
4/ The steering linkages pop off too easily--whats the recommended upgrade here?
5/ Bubbling front tires--ok--just replace the tires easy enough...but from early to late which tires would have been available?
6/ Camber/toe in look anywhere near correct???

Thanks in advance!

[call-911]

The body is from Parma. I don't recall what it's name was though.

[aconsola]

It looks like a bolink funco 2-seater. See here #10:
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5333&p=51009&hilit=funco#p51009

[mrlexan]

Anthony is right, it a Bolink.... there were two versions with minor differences, mostly in the rear in the engine details...... I've got both of the original molds from Bolink.

[Synergy]

Rear camber looks like it might need some adjustment from positive to negative, someone more clued up will have to give you the values, should look like this (for Halgar and Tad, obviously like a RC10 not a Pro Cat ):-

[call-911]

Yep, you guys are right. My memory isn't so good. That was the first RC10 body I had since I originally got the bushing kit without the body.

[scr8p]

1) bolink - answered above
2) a 5.5 wing will work just fine.
3) you need a taller servo horn.
4) either try new ball cups, or switch to parma or dubro heavy duty 4/40 heim ends.
5) there were a lot of companys that made tires to fit those rims, it's just a matter of finding them. (1.9 fronts, 1.6 rears)
6) you have a TON of positive rear camber. you need to get those tires straight up and down, or maybe a degree or 2 of negative camber. the front is hard to tell. adjust everything with the car fully loaded (battery, motor, etc.).

[scr8p]

also, i'm not exactly sure which ball cups are popping off. but, the ball studs on the steering knuckles and castor blocks look like brass. possibly tamiya? that could be the reason they pop off so easily.

[templeofspeed]

Looks like inline steering blocks as well (used on the later cars), that will kill some steering with the short front arms. I think scr8p is right about the ball studs, Tamiya = too small.

[uzzi]

I would say you are not getting enough throw...on the steering bellcrank, relocate the steering rod to the outermost hole and also get a longer servo horn.