The RC10 4wd

Everything pertaining to the RC10 buggy re-releases.
Classic, Classic Clear, World's, etc...

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R6cowboy
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Re: The RC10 4wd

Post by R6cowboy »

Rc10812 wrote: Fri Apr 18, 2025 10:29 am Does AE sell a stealth kit?
I've been watching for a while and have only seen AE stealth trans parts sold individually.
-Jerry-

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Re: The RC10 4wd

Post by DSaw78 »

GoMachV wrote: Thu Apr 17, 2025 11:30 pm Forgot to mention, we have the RC10 4WD chassis braces in stock now as well. These do not fit Ten4 or any other platform

https://factoryworks.com/shop/ols/categories/team-associated-4wd
Guess I need to get one of these, and the battery holder since the kit one seems to hit the body.

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Re: The RC10 4wd

Post by Rc10812 »

R6cowboy wrote: Fri Apr 18, 2025 11:04 am
Rc10812 wrote: Fri Apr 18, 2025 10:29 am Does AE sell a stealth kit?
I've been watching for a while and have only seen AE stealth trans parts sold individually.
Same here. Probably just going to get a fan tranny. Was considering a gear diff but have no experience with one and not really sure what advantages vs disadvantages it has compared to the ball diff. Anyone know of a thread that might explain?

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Re: The RC10 4wd

Post by RogueIV »

terry.sc wrote: Mon Apr 14, 2025 10:34 pm
RogueIV wrote: Mon Apr 14, 2025 4:05 pm I feel like the Brits go off the deep end with some of their scrutineering in these revival classes. I've said it before and I'll say it again, make rules simple, over regulating everything just makes everyone's life more annoying. Who wants to sit there teching every car?
Our vintage racing here in the UK is much more mature than other countries, there are very few vintage collectors racing and heats are usually filled with whatever the latest re-release is as it's competitive "vintage style " racing. We only recently introduced a 10.5T motor limit because the fastest buggies even in the earlier classes were running 7.5T and 8.5T motors in both 2wd and 4wd.

In the UK we had simple rules 10 years ago, when the only people racing vintage were collectors who took it as an opportunity to get together, show off and discuss vintage cars, and have a bit of racing on the side. The only real rule was that cars were put in classes based on their age. No one cared about running modern parts because re-releases didn't exist outside of Tamiya and the limited edition RC10 back then. Then old racers started turning up a few years later who started to take the racing seriously, so suddenly we had drivers being allowed to run modern big bore shocks because the racers couldn't find brand new vintage shocks for less, even though you could find lightly used ones for a lot less. Then modern slippers were allowed. Then you find cars turning up with later model suspensions on them. The we had the Chimera Model Sport team turn up with an Optima with a 2 inch longer wheelbase on a milled 5mm thick carbon fibre plate chassis. After having been told it was too extreme they turned up the next year with this creation.

optima 2.jpg
It's an Optima, with a brass front bulkhead, a 5mm thick fibreglass chassis with pockets machined in it for the electrics to sit in to lower the centre of gravity, and all the electrics moved forward so it could achieve the same weight distribution as modern buggies. This buggy is why we now have rules that only 50g of stick on weights are allowed, all alloy upgrade parts must be the same shape as the original plastic part it replaces, and the battery must be in the same position as the original chassis, so the weight distribution is the same as the original. The Chimera team always uses the Parma eagle body on all their cars because it's a forward cab shell, but it also makes it very hard to tell whether they are running a longer wheelbase.

Our rules are so lenient that using the JC Racing RC10 gearbox that uses B6 internals is allowed. Last year we had the Trickbits YZ10R and Rubrix Racing RX4E, both of which are very expensive modern interpretations designed specifically to be used with brushless systems and people are unhappy that those are allowed as they are only loosely connected to the original 1990s chassis. At least they are a lot nearer the original 1990s designs than the RC104WD is to an MIP conversion. I personally have more of a problem with those 4wds that dominate their group than I do for the RC10, because the long arms and stealth gearbox means it should run in the 89-93 class with Lazers, Cat 2000s a Top Force Evos where it shouldn't be competitive which is why there is talk here of giving them their own class, although I'm sure some will try and get it put in with the Optimas because the original MIP chain cars were around back then. But the problem is if it is allowed in even though it didn't exist back then, then owners of other custom made buggies that theoretically could have existed but didn't, such as the optima above, could argue that they should be allowed as well. And yes, we will have racers here arguing that their one off creations should be allowed.
The reason I said what I said is I see a lot of talk of certain mundane things being outlawed. I remember everyone being angry over the "big bore" shocks on the YZ-870C and shouldn't be revival legal completely overlooking that they were hardly big bore and actually suck anyway and the original shocks are not only better but the right size.

Personally, I think there should just be a separate class for heavily modded cars rather than bumping them out of competition entirely because seeing that kinda workmanship is always fun to see and we hardly get to see it with modern races. Also feel a lot of these mods are the fault of the tracks having far too much traction and being well groomed.
Consistency is the key I keep misplacing.

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Re: The RC10 4wd

Post by Supernaut »

GoMachV wrote: Thu Apr 17, 2025 11:30 pm Forgot to mention, we have the RC10 4WD chassis braces in stock now as well. These do not fit Ten4 or any other platform

https://factoryworks.com/shop/ols/categories/team-associated-4wd
I see that you are using the supplied belt tensioner. I have a RC10 belt and a Factory Works belt. Will the FW belt work with the tensioner or do I need a longer one?
I tried the FW works one and it was pretty tight.
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Re: The RC10 4wd

Post by GoMachV »

I'm confused as to what you are asking. The 582 tooth fw belt for the ten4.1 too long for the AE 4wd, since they use 15t sprockets and we use 18t. Their belt is a 573, same as our original Ten4. I'm not sure I understand the combo you are using. If you are using 18t pulleys and the fw belt you should be fine, the belt is about right when it's run fully loose, and will stretch within a couple runs.
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Re: The RC10 4wd

Post by Supernaut »

Yes sorry I was not clear. I am using the FW 18T Pulleys and Belt on the RC10 4wd. I had a hard time using the RC10 4wd tensioner.
Thought I would need to design and print one that was not so close to the Pully. Belt was really tight.
I will give it a try again.

Thanks

Yes couple runs sounds right!
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Love to build......need to practice painting
Associated - Worlds, B6D
Traxxas - Rad2, TCP, Stampede, Villain IV
Tamiya - CLODBUSTER
As you can see....I sold most of my cars. Funding Pinball now.

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