Losi JRX Pro SE Racer build

[Charlie don't surf]

Finally getting some work done on this car. The transmission is together using 64p Thorp internals for ultimate efficiency. I'm trying to use a modern TLR 22 slipper setup, but I'm having a hard time getting everything to work properly. I think I may need to find a longer slipper spring.

B4 slipper plates work well and space out with the standard large diameter springs

[Lavigna]

Charlie - Good recommendation. I also like the idea of using a 4/40 screw straight into the threads of the top shaft.

I got some work done. Arms and towers mounted. Factory Works supplied the towers as well as the front carbon brace for the hinge pins. I had wanted to use an RPM front bulkhead for the added strength, but I don't have any of the correct versions left - the ones with the top threads for the top plate. I hope the fact this bulkhead is brand new means it's less likely to crack.

Titanium hardware is being used throughout. I am using the LXT spindles and carriers for the added adjustments. However I think I will swap out the long armed spindles for the standard ones. Does anyone have any input on this?

[BattleTrak]

Charlie - Good recommendation. I also like the idea of using a 4/40 screw straight into the threads of the top shaft.

I got some work done. Arms and towers mounted. Factory Works supplied the towers as well as the front carbon brace for the hinge pins. I had wanted to use an RPM front bulkhead for the added strength, but I don't have any of the correct versions left - the ones with the top threads for the top plate. I hope the fact this bulkhead is brand new means it's less likely to crack.

Titanium hardware is being used throughout. I am using the LXT spindles and carriers for the added adjustments. However I think I will swap out the long armed spindles for the standard ones. Does anyone have any input on this?

Looking great! LXT carriers/uprights with Jrx2 spindles is half of the Jammin Steering enhancement kit. Here’s my break down of the kit..
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=47695

[HS-YZ250]

You could always put TLR22 hardware on the front! lol!

[Lavigna]

Getting closer now. Got the spindles changed to buggy length. Also swapped the steering ballstud to the underside of the carbon steering rack.

All black titanium turnbuckles with RPM ends. Very thankful for JC Racing. They have made it so running and racing these vintage cars is so much easier.

[Lavigna]

Getting closer. I'm loving the yellow wheels on this car. I was able to use a magnesium slipper kit I had leftover from a TLR 22 build. It should work well. Wing mounted with new HPI mounts and a modern wing.

I'm not sure how I'm going to mount the electronics yet. I'm unsure if I can fit them all in the bottom central bay of the chassis, or if I should use a RPM ESC shelf mount.

Simple retro paint job on a Penguin SE body is in the works.

[RC10th]

Looking very crisp

[sixdub]

Oooh. Very nice!

[DSaw78]

I love those wheels! It looks so cool.

[mikea96]

Wow very nice

[Charlie don't surf]

Looks great! Obviously going to be running on carpet-
1] I'm sure your well aware but those RPM arms are like flexible flyers on carpet causing tons of geometry changes through the corners. Ultima Pro XL front arms are the exact same dimensions and are properly stiff.

2) You wouldn't think it but lots of slop in the "post" where the servo connects with the bellcrank on high bite. If anyone make aluminum bellcranks ( Hey FactoryWorks!) , I'd try to find aome- really makes the steering consistent

3) LWB make the car more forgiving, and gives more turn in (gets the motor closer to the axle center)

Super clean build, looks like a blast on the track!

[Lavigna]

^ Charlie - thanks for the great input. I am aware of the flexiness of RPM arms on modern high grip setups. However I was handling these RPM arms before I installed them and they felt pretty damn stiff. I think I will look for a set of stock arms first, and maybe grab some Ultima Pro XL arms to have as backup.

Good idea on the long wheelbase. I will definitely try it. Thanks.

[RogueIV]

If it means anything I run the RPM fronts on mine on carpet and they're fine. I think the rears were more of the problem.

BTW if you want to make the rear more durable use hinge pins in the back that have E-clip on the outside of the arms rather than the stock ones that use those plastic clips. The reason for this is on impact only one of the prongs of the arm will be taking the force which can cause it to deflect, break the hinge pin and the arm and cause a bad day. Having the clips on the outside helps spread the force over both parts of the arm keeping them from doing the splits and making a painful "snap" sound we all hate hearing.

Losi never really learned this lesson and went on to do the same mistake with the XX-4 and later XXX-4 with the screw on pins that threaded onto the arms instead of the caster block.

[Lavigna]

I painted the body today. The SE livery is simple enough that even I can replicate the general look. I did my best to fade the purple to black using rattle cans.

[RogueIV]

The palate swap works out well. When is its track debut?