rc10 GT engine question

[jammer]

Great forum!

..... and first post.

After many years, I am pulling my factory team GT out from storage.
Before backburnering it for many years, I purchased a new engine for it, but never installed it.

The shop I bought it from, I believe gave me the wrong parts to finish the install.

The new engine is still new in box - it is a OS CV-R(P) 15 non-pull start.
The old engine is a OS CV-X 15. pull start.
They are both rear exhaust.

I was going to reuse the original high mount (pull start).

Here is my question with a picture(attached):

I was told that a full length crank shaft was best, but the nut I was sold does not fit with my existing MIP clutch or drum.
The nut is too large to fit into the clutch and the bearings in the drum are too small diameter to fit over the larger crank end.

The nut I was sold is an AE NTC3 SG clutch nut #2313.

What is the recommendation? Bit low on cash, hope I can salvage without to much $.

FYI - I bought the GT with the old engine, but it had been heat seized a few times and would not start with the pull start.
I was able to start it with a starter box and did run it for quite awhile that way.
Maybe I should have just got an identical replacement with PS, so all the parts would fit.
I just assumed PS was not so great.

appreciate any help!
jammer

[Charlie don't surf]

If you used a non pull start mount, and the Tc3 2 shoe clutch assembly and flywheel then that SG crank motor will work fine. ( also those are side exhaust motors )

[jammer]

SG = ?

So it seems that an SG style crank uses the TC3 clutch system with a low mount.

and.....

the two piece crank style is GT clutch system.

Did the shop just not know or what? Seems like it would be quite obvious.

May have to go visit them and see if they can exchange it.
BTW - anyone know what the (P) designation means in the CV-R(P) - does it indicate the SG style?

Are there only two styles?

jammer

[Charlie don't surf]

Either crank will work with the right engine mount, the SG is the most common type and has better performance due to a longer intake runner as well. The p denotes pull start in the cv series

[Charlie don't surf]

Oh, and your current clutch is the losi style shoe system. Which you need to cut that nut down to use-

[jammer]

If the (P) stands for pull start - and the CV-R(P) I bought did not come with a pull start type flange, but only an end cap, can I reuse the pull start flange off the CV-X on the CV-R?

I realize I still have the clutch problem - just asking.

Oh, and your current clutch is the losi style shoe system. Which you need to cut that nut down to use-

I am confused. So the MIP clutch is a losi design?
and, cut down which nut?

If I can return the CV-R(P), what should I get?
pull start or non.
Do the pull starters really work well hen the engine has good compression or should I stick with starter boxes.

All my 1/8th scale buggies are only starter boxed.

jammer

[Charlie don't surf]

Sorry, OS lists the pull start version as an x

[klavy69]

with the parts you have and the different style shaft on the new motor you would be better off starting over if you are trying to get by on the cheap side. You could pry drop the motor on ebay and get some money to put towards a corrected crank motor and get you by cheaper if your lhs won't take it back. Right off hand your dead in the water though without shelling out some cash. Ideally your lhs should've sold you a threaded crank and a cut off nut. Not sure what they were thinkin when they sold that sg to you. The newer rtr have had sg cranks in them but for the majority a threaded crank shaft has been the norm. If you can return that motor get a threaded crank shaft motor anyway. As for pullstarts they are good for once in awhile starting but either a bump box like you allready know about or a handheld bump starter will work out better than another pullstarter. Good luck.
Todd

[jammer]

I appreciate the advice and knowledge!

I am still confused with the below quote.

Oh, and your current clutch is the losi style shoe system. Which you need to cut that nut down to use-

So the MIP clutch is a losi design?
and, cut down which nut?

jammer

will this work:
TC3 pull start flywheel - http://cgi.ebay.com/Associated-2323-Pull-start-Flywheel-Nitro-TC3-/390301146696?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5adfc2de48

TC3 MIP clutch - http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-MIP-Racing-Associated-TC3-Clutch-VERY-DURABLE-3076-/250794078304?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a647df060

TC3 bell - http://cgi.ebay.com/Associated-2-Speed-Clutch-Bell-NTC3-ASC2295-/360385636436?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e8a86854

Only problem I see is the TC3's larger bell diameter only allows a minimum 20t pinion.
My existing setup is a 15t.

Also what the deal with these two speeds?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Associated-Nitro-TC3-2-speed-Clutch-Housing-w-Bearing-/370531943741?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56456cc53d


seems much has changed in the few years.

jammer

[jammer]

Just bumping this back up.

any comment on my previous post?

If the TC3 bell diameter is larger and requires a larger minimum gear, then I will have no choice but to get the original style crankshaft.

thanks guys.

[Charlie don't surf]

You can go up to a 62t spur with the NTC3 spin on ( 2 speed ) bell and clutch, and these are the parts needed for a SG setup-

2322 non pull start flywheel ( 2 shoe )
2310 clutch shoes
2306 clutch springs standard
2313 clutch nut
7618 collet

Plus the non pullstart motor mount
And bearings

[Garage Hack]

Let's do a 14-year bump up! looking around at options for my GT rere and saw this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/196549909629?_skw=Yokomo+RX12C&itmmeta=01JNCYSQEMZZWKWVPCG0HCNSEK&hash=item2dc3499c7d:g:2UAAAOSwx0NmtRxG&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fYVWKla346Gm3Vhatg9dSHdRD%2BUGxU0ndgAyrfT%2BidVrewIfHymnedSLo%2Fsea7qcc8HwCqGJrfw%2BzRM7ugywrRGospjhuGTd8qAGhLUPwtWfy1xxyXakBGfv8p7HxQMM73bPX%2FCBQO%2BSvfPobnowBel3QvnoDOo2j0iBOA7xYPuycjzvJ3FvjdSsYjCgyQUR9rDsKUgZ%2B7Yq%2FaUhQSYb7m6GiF7FeYVLVKvzUdyGw%2FDNkrpsZbVoQEzwkNFnJDHjM%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8T35p6rZQ

Will that work?

[coxbros1]

Let's do a 14-year bump up! looking around at options for my GT rere and saw this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/196549909629?_skw=Yokomo+RX12C&itmmeta=01JNCYSQEMZZWKWVPCG0HCNSEK&hash=item2dc3499c7d:g:2UAAAOSwx0NmtRxG&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fYVWKla346Gm3Vhatg9dSHdRD%2BUGxU0ndgAyrfT%2BidVrewIfHymnedSLo%2Fsea7qcc8HwCqGJrfw%2BzRM7ugywrRGospjhuGTd8qAGhLUPwtWfy1xxyXakBGfv8p7HxQMM73bPX%2FCBQO%2BSvfPobnowBel3QvnoDOo2j0iBOA7xYPuycjzvJ3FvjdSsYjCgyQUR9rDsKUgZ%2B7Yq%2FaUhQSYb7m6GiF7FeYVLVKvzUdyGw%2FDNkrpsZbVoQEzwkNFnJDHjM%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8T35p6rZQ

Will that work?

Yes that will work! U ready for that much power?

[Garage Hack]

No, for sure not, just looking at options and want something that's quality. I see people on Facebook scoring OS and other point .12 Motors all the time I just don't know where they are getting them so figured I'd compile a little list of Plan B engines.

[RC10th]

Buy something to run unless your building a shelf queen, paying that much money on an engine is silly unless you were doing a box art build, and even then the boost chamber isn't "correct"

Basically any rotary carb .12 -.15 with side exhaust and an OS/threaded crank will fit (non SG). If you want a pullstart it changes the configuration slightly. Is this for a re-re GT? Slide carb engines will also fit and work as well but require a slightly different linkage configuration.

From memory you COULD get an SG (P) crank engine to work by cutting the pilot shaft off after the threads, I can't remember if this required a different pilot nut or not. I can't find my cut off nuts to test. Same with rear exhaust engines, they will work but require a really low profile header such as the Losi or AE which are long gone.

Good deals are out there, just gotta keep an eye out. Also look for engines with ABC construction as these are far better than ABN