'70 Challenger / Cuda

[XLR8]

A new 1:8 scale Mopar from 3dsets:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-OGjovd9Qbk

It's very tempting. I don't have a Mopar in the collection and the 1:8 F150 Raptor needs some company.
So many projects, so little time.

[GoMachV]

I just got that email too. Not a Mopar fan, but that is VERY cool. Tempting for sure

[GreenBar0n]

I really do like the idea of printing RC bodies, even though they're a bit fragile and heavy, they would still be perfect for scale cruising. Demolition derby would be fun with these too, if you can just print a new one.

[XLR8]

Will the body be sufficiently durable if printed with polycarbonate filament?
I reckon it wouldn't but it might be worth trying.
Anyway, I'm curious about the "magnet shocks" and magnetic slipper clutch.

[GreenBar0n]

I was figuring PLA was the cheapest and easiest way to do the body, and retain the details. I have yet to try any of the really strong/rigid filaments yet. PETG is stringy and the details can get fuzzy, in the limited experiments I've had so far.

Saw the magnetic bits on that kit, and wondered also. Would like to see the manual.

EDIT: manual
https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1OI72YxFDC5uCGUpmkdg9Xcxm-u3OQD49ijqLQHrATAY/edit

Magnetic friction shocks.
https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1gNx_30TXdJt87waqOpXKVB42kukDIhW4FpTW3w-SvHU/edit#slide=id.g32b2092abfd_1_0

[silvertriple]

I was figuring PLA was the cheapest and easiest way to do the body, and retain the details. I have yet to try any of the really strong/rigid filaments yet. PETG is stringy and the details can get fuzzy, in the limited experiments I've had so far.

Saw the magnetic bits on that kit, and wondered also. Would like to see the manual.

PETG is stringy when wet. Have no issue if that type with PETG. You may have to dry it.

Those models are Interesting, but 3.5kg is a lot.

[GreenBar0n]

I was figuring PLA was the cheapest and easiest way to do the body, and retain the details. I have yet to try any of the really strong/rigid filaments yet. PETG is stringy and the details can get fuzzy, in the limited experiments I've had so far.

Saw the magnetic bits on that kit, and wondered also. Would like to see the manual.

PETG is stringy when wet. Have no issue if that type with PETG. You may have to dry it.

Those models are Interesting, but 3.5kg is a lot.

The build instructions are recommending PLA, wonder if they intend it to be very strong, or driven hard.

EDIT: Used a brand new roll, details were not as good as PLA, with PETG for the project I was working on.

[XLR8]

I'd probably just go with PLA since it's cheap and easy to print.

... then I'd need to be careful around curbs and lamp posts and avoid leaving it in the car during a hot summer day.

I've had a look at the build manual and I am thoroughly impressed. The level of planning, design and engineering is ridiculous.

Anyway, I can imagine this kit with nice shiny paint and carrying AAR Cuda logos and stripes.

[GreenBar0n]

Don't even have to be a fan of Mopar, or the color red, to appreciate that one. Nice!

[silvertriple]

EDIT: Used a brand new roll, details were not as good as PLA, with PETG for the project I was working on.

It's not because it new out of the sealed bag that it is dry, as per my experience, just saying... At the end, lot of elements can impact details. Yes PLA is much more easy to calibrate and to work with, in particular because it is less affected by hygroscopic factor...

[XLR8]

The absorption rate for PLA does appear to be very low. Remnants from my first roll have been left in the printer for a couple months now and it's still pliable. I reckon it will make an acceptable print despite never have been dried.

PLA, however, isn't easy to sand to remove layer lines. Could ABS be a better choice for body panels? I'm aware there are warpage issues with styrene but it's very easy to smooth and prep for painting. Thoughts?

[GreenBar0n]

EDIT: Used a brand new roll, details were not as good as PLA, with PETG for the project I was working on.

It's not because it new out of the sealed bag that it is dry, as per my experience, just saying... At the end, lot of elements can impact details. Yes PLA is much more easy to calibrate and to work with, in particular because it is less affected by hygroscopic factor...

The details for the parts I was working with, are what PETG was not looking as good compared to PLA for. Be that moisture, or whatever you want to attribute that to, I didn't require strength for that project, just the level of detail. PLA was better in that case.

[GreenBar0n]

The absorption rate for PLA does appear to be very low. Remnants from my first roll have been left in the printer for a couple months now and it's still pliable. I reckon it will make an acceptable print despite never have been dried.

PLA, however, isn't easy to sand to remove layer lines. Could ABS be a better choice for body panels? I'm aware there are warpage issues with styrene but it's very easy to smooth and prep for painting. Thoughts?

I had heard using acetone will smooth those lines out, but will also diminish the details in the print, as a result of the melting/smoothing of the surface. I have yet to try it personally though.

[XLR8]

The absorption rate for PLA does appear to be very low. Remnants from my first roll have been left in the printer for a couple months now and it's still pliable. I reckon it will make an acceptable print despite never have been dried.

PLA, however, isn't easy to sand to remove layer lines. Could ABS be a better choice for body panels? I'm aware there are warpage issues with styrene but it's very easy to smooth and prep for painting. Thoughts?

I had heard using acetone will smooth those lines out, but will also diminish the details in the print, as a result of the melting/smoothing of the surface. I have yet to try it personally though.

I've heard that as well so as a test, I brushed (flooded, actually) acetone directly on a scrap part and let it dry. The acetone appears to decreased the shine but the layer lines remain. This was PLA Basic from Bambu.
Also, I've found that Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (acetone/MEK blend) works very well to bond parts made from this PLA so perhaps it could be used to melt-away layer lines.
BTW, is MEK (quart or gallon) no longer available? Our Lowes only sells the "substitute" (gallon) and it's far too expensive to test.

[silvertriple]

The details for the parts I was working with, are what PETG was not looking as good compared to PLA for. Be that moisture, or whatever you want to attribute that to, I didn't require strength for that project, just the level of detail. PLA was better in that case.

Again, it may linked with both experience, calibration and settings.
All my recent prints are actually PETG for many reason : it stands much better the heat than PLA, it provide strength closer to nylon than I expectd (I have a 44B chassis running with PETG prints without a single broken parts), and for the details, once calibrated it provides far enough details for what I do. Now that's where it becomes tricky : details means fine parts, and they are the ones that are going to be issues with PLA in case of direct sunlight, unless in clear color (not even speaking about being stored in a car a sunny day) : bigger PLA parts with thick walls may not have so much issue with heat as there is a lot to heat before it deforms much, but for smaller parts, that may be).
That said, it may totally depends as well where you are living : I'm living near Lyon in France, and during summer, days are 40°C are quite a few. during those days :
- temperatures in a car under direct sunlight can get over 60°C
- temperatures in a garage with a metal roof can reach about 55°C
- temperatures in a home are generally not an issue as we can reduce the light flow
For people living in the North of that area in Europe, it may not be an issue, and the number of days in those conditions are fewer. But I often remind the experience of one guy at the club who was very happy to show his printed car (PLA) during the winter, and who went unhappy few months later and showed a superb melted bent printed car during the summer (the printed car was in the real car the previous day, under direct sunlight).

At the end, yes, PETG is definitely more difficult to print than PLA, in particular because it tends to stick to the nozzle, resulting often in a mess when there is adhesion issue because it drags elements failing over the rest of the print. But this should not happen when it is perfectly calibrated. Further, PETG tends to be shiny, and that doesn't help for the details as well, but most often than not, they are there.