The RC Corvette in - (1988) The Dead Pool - Clint Eastwood

[GreenBar0n]

Hoping to get through the wheel wells today, it's really tough for me to create wheel wells out of blank Lexan, with no cut lines anywhere on this body for wheels.


When I get one side setup, it then seems harder to replicate same thing on the other side, even with paper patterns. Will keep at it.



The movie car looks to have the grill, and the strip under the doors, painted on the inside of the shell, I'm guessing PS-12 Silver.


I ordered some chrome foil sheets from bare-metal.com, for the bumpers, but the sheets are missing in the mail, need to figure that out Monday.
https://www.bare-metal.com/bare-metal-foil.html

[MarkyDents]

When I was a kid my father had a roll of HVAC tape in the garage that I would cut pieces off of when I wanted to make parts look like chrome metal on my bodies….

[ZED32]

When I was a kid my father had a roll of HVAC tape in the garage that I would cut pieces off of when I wanted to make parts look like chrome metal on my bodies….

Would? I still do this

[GreenBar0n]

Getting closer to paint.

[racerjam]

Nice work so far! Those wheel wells are always a challenge, especially on a classic car like the RC Corvette from The Dead Pool.

[GreenBar0n]

Nice work so far! Those wheel wells are always a challenge, especially on a classic car like the RC Corvette from The Dead Pool.

Really appreciate the encouragement, thanks! It is difficult knowing that one incorrectly drawn line, or cut too far, and all the prior steady work could be done for .


Think I got the wheel wells right for the moment, may fine tune them a bit later.

Beginning to get the tape lines on for the bright work, like the grill, license plate holders, and side strips. This is the rough draft.




Have PS-12 Silver, PS-41 Bright Silver, and PS-63 Bright Gun Metal. Thinking PS-41 Bright Silver for everything, bumpers too, and then bumpers also wrapped in chrome foil.


It's been difficult for me not to try to make this look like more than the movie car, with SpazStix Chrome spray and some other ideas to make it appear more scale. May do that to my other Parma 63 Vette body at some point.


Going to try to get the tape lines as clean as I can get them, and then spray the PS-41 today.

[GreenBar0n]

Got the chrome foil.


Made it through the PS-41 Bright Silver. Need to clean up the bumper lines a bit better still.




Got the side mounts in the right spots.


Will wait until tomorrow, to check things over again, before the PS-5 black goes on.


Need to figure out the front window vents and gas cap. Going to try using the same chrome pen on the inside of the body in a couple of spots, to match the outside pen work that the movie car has.

[Dangeruss]

I like the last line of Bare Metal Foil package...

ALL DETAIL SHOWS THROUGH

...they make it sound more like a warning than a feature.

Wrapping the bumpers??

[GreenBar0n]

I've yet to open the foil package and check it out, must be really thin to show details like that.

Car #1 has really nice foil bumpers:


Car #2 looked like actual tin foil.


Car #0 will have the cleanest wrapped foil bumpers I can possibly achieve

[GreenBar0n]

The rear Kydex piece that keeps the body from flapping on movie Car #2:


Car #1 looks to have no rear Kydex support, the body can be seen moving around back there:



Car #0 now has a rear Kydex support.




It took forever to get the mounts to line up.


Will look this over again tomorrow, and hopefully move on to the final paint.

[TRX-1-3]

I've yet to open the foil package and check it out, must be really thin to show details like that.

Yes it is VERY thin. It is also a very delicate and tedious process. I've only used it to detail 1/24-25 static model cars. I think the experience has alot to do with how it is stored and handled, how long it's been in the inventory, etc. I've had some that comes off the backing paper easily, and some that just tears to ribbons. I've wadded up entire sheets and thrown them across the room.

Might have to block the entire area to be foiled then burnish and tuck with a cotton swab from the center, across the high spots, working out and down to the line of detail. A bit of very light trailing toothpick work can be used to tease it into spots. Then you gotta cut the excess without scoring the lexan. New blades and very light pressure. Or you could do it in sections with tasteful seaming. That actually might work better than blocking to achieve the one piece look. I think once you get an idea of how it behaves on that larger and more contoured surface, it'll all come together. One of the benefits to it being so thin is that small wrinkles can essentially just be folded over on themselves and they kind of disappear.

Bottom line is you're gonna wanna go full zen mode.

[GreenBar0n]

I've yet to open the foil package and check it out, must be really thin to show details like that.

Yes it is VERY thin. It is also a very delicate and tedious process. I've only used it to detail 1/24-25 static model cars. I think the experience has alot to do with how it is stored and handled, how long it's been in the inventory, etc. I've had some that comes off the backing paper easily, and some that just tears to ribbons. I've wadded up entire sheets and thrown them across the room.

Might have to block the entire area to be foiled then burnish and tuck with a cotton swab from the center, across the high spots, working out and down to the line of detail. A bit of very light trailing toothpick work can be used to tease it into spots. Then you gotta cut the excess without scoring the lexan. New blades and very light pressure. Or you could do it in sections with tasteful seaming. That actually might work better than blocking to achieve the one piece look. I think once you get an idea of how it behaves on that larger and more contoured surface, it'll all come together. One of the benefits to it being so thin is that small wrinkles can essentially just be folded over on themselves and they kind of disappear.

Bottom line is you're gonna wanna go full zen mode.

Really appreciate that, thanks for the tips! I was wondering what I was getting myself in to with that foil, have no experience at all, it looks really delicate. It will be the final step on the body, so I'll have to prepare myself for the frustration that comes with it

Rained hard today, 82% humidity all day and night here. My paint booth is only suitable for air brush paint, not lacquer. I may have to wait a bit to paint.

[XLR8]

I've used bare metal foil many times on my RC projects -- most recently on the Sand Scorcher body. Like TRX-1-3 has mentioned, it's important to use a very sharp (new) knife blade for all your cuts. Anything less and the foil will catch, wrinkle and rip. Also, the adhesive isn't very strong so it's easy to catch an edge and pull the foil loose. Be mindful of the direction you are going when using a cloth to wipe the model down.
It's tedious work but the results are worth the effort. Nothing looks more like metal than actual metal.
To be honest, with all those wrinkles, the foil work on the actual TDP car doesn't look that good. I predict that yours will look much better.

[GreenBar0n]

I've used bare metal foil many times on my RC projects -- most recently on the Sand Scorcher body. Like TRX-1-3 has mentioned, it's important to use a very sharp (new) knife blade for all your cuts. Anything less and the foil will catch, wrinkle and rip. Also, the adhesive isn't very strong so it's easy to catch an edge and pull the foil loose. Be mindful of the direction you are going when using a cloth to wipe the model down.
It's tedious work but the results are worth the effort. Nothing looks more like metal than actual metal.
To be honest, with all those wrinkles, the foil work on the actual TDP car doesn't look that good. I predict that yours will look much better.

Very kind of you to say, thanks! I got two stacks of that foil, knowing I'd ruin at least one stack. I hadn't noticed you used the foil on your Sand Scorcher body, that was the same thing I was intending to do with the extra foil for my Sand Scorcher, for the chrome strips above and below the windows. I'll have to check yours out again. Thanks for the tips!

[limestang]

The rear Kydex piece that keeps the body from flapping on movie Car #2:


Car #1 looks to have no rear Kydex support, the body can be seen moving around back there:



Car #0 now has a rear Kydex support.




It took forever to get the mounts to line up.


Will look this over again tomorrow, and hopefully move on to the final paint.

Has anyone ever figured out what’s hand written on the masking tape placed on the transmission brace. This has bothered me for years. Here’s what I see:
CAR 2 of 4
14-54 - Most likely Gear ratio
F7YD — Very hard to read
FR 27Hz - Radio Frequency

Anyone have a better photo or better guess? Think about what info you would need to ID the vehicle (Crystal Frequency, Motor turns, Motor, ???)

Thanks limestang