RC10 DS Classic - Build

[1911Colt]

All for the sake of not being sued, I'm sure.

Hold my beer....
- Traxxas lawyer

[Dangeruss]

I'm gonna wait on that one and watch Mr. BarOn finish his since he clearly knows what he's doing.

Ha... why learn from your own mistakes when you can learn from someone elses??

Kidding, obviously... The BaraOn is definitely gettin' the job done on what... five... six... different builds simultaneously

So to reiterate, Trans Am is the racing series the car ran in not the name of the car. There's a bit of weirdness with the naming in RC world to get around licensing. I still think it's funny that the 2nd car on the Box Art was changed to the Mustang body as well when it was originally a Mercedes. Also note that there's no Ford logos in the sticker sheets and All Sport was replaced with Dual Sport. All for the sake of not being sued, I'm sure.

To be more correct... all for the sake of not paying for the licensing rights, I'm sure.

Gotta say though, best looking paint job for the SN95 era was the Saleen/Allen RRR Mustangs

[GreenBar0n]

Thanks for the kind words and encouragement, guys! I've just finally reached that age where I don't mind failing in the pursuit of success, or looking foolish if it helps others. I remember in junior high being called a "Try-hard" was the worst thing, now that's all I want to do

I test fit the Fazer MK2 L setting body, it is too long for the DS 261mm WB, the shorter Kyosho Fazer MK2 bodies might have an easier time.

[Brendan2904]

Ok so is the body that comes with the kit a Trans Am like AE says on their site or is it a Ford Mustang like the Fakebook Mafia swears it is?

Yes.
It's AE's rendition of the Mustang Tommy Kendall drove in the SCCA Trans Am series.



Thus, it is a Trans Am Mustang.

Thank you!

Gonna need a new body then.

[GreenBar0n]

I just blew out (4) LED's - twice, so (8) LED's total now gone. I can laugh about it a couple of hours later, but what a waste of time.


Why twice? Because with the Hobbywing 1060 this worked with no problems, (3) LED's in parallel connected directly to the switch:


But this Hobbywing Xerun 10 JustStock brushless ESC, doesn't seem to have a current limiter, and it cooked every LED connected to it directly, without the controller.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywing-xerun-xr10-justock-g3s-1-10-sensored-brushless-esc-hwa30112005/p1544561


These cheapy ebay LED controllers are good for all the LED's they come with, but the controller flashes and is too busy in general.




Since an LED controller has a current limiter/resistor for each LED, it works fine with the Xerun ESC.

The Tamiya TLU-01 LED controller is on sale for $20 with two day delivery on Amazon, (2) of these will be here Sunday.
https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Led-Light-Unit-Tlu-01/dp/B000J49WBK

The decal squeegee was delayed in delivery, won't be here until tomorrow now. Hoping to finish Sunday.

[XLR8]

I'm pretty sure all of my ESC's deliver 6v max to the Rx but I read that your JustStock can be switched from 6v to 7.4v. Could this be what blew your LED's?
Anyway, I'm no LED expert and I really don't have the patience to rig a light controller so I just power all my lights from an empty port on the Rx. I take the easy (lazy) route.
The LED's I buy have resistors pre-wired so they are perfect for someone like me - lazy and impatient.

[GreenBar0n]

I'm pretty sure all of my ESC's deliver 6v max to the Rx but I read that your JustStock can be switched from 6v to 7.4v. Could this be what blew your LED's?
Anyway, I'm no LED expert and I really don't have the patience to rig a light controller so I just power all my lights from an empty port on the Rx. I take the easy (lazy) route.
The LED's I buy have resistors pre-wired so they are perfect for someone like me - lazy and impatient.

The Hobbywing Xerun 10 was set to 6V, I verified it with a DMM, but the current being 8A continuous output through the BEC, and a continuous 4A through the switch, is what I'm pretty sure took the LED's out, all of them and fast, some LED's die at 20mA, I fed them a possible 4,000mA

The 1060 will run those LED's with no issues, right from the switch.

Which pre-built LED's are you using?

[juicedcoupe]

The Hobbywing Xerun 10 was set to 6V, I verified it with a DMM, but the current being 8A continuous output through the BEC, and a continuous 4A through the switch, is what I'm pretty sure took the LED's out, all of them and fast, some LED's die at 20mA, I fed them a possible 4,000mA

Thats not how current work. Regardless of the size of the supply, a device should only draw it's required amperage.

It is more likely that the availability of excess current highlighted a fault somewhere else.

[TRX-1-3]

The decal squeegee was delayed in delivery, won't be here until tomorrow now. Hoping to finish Sunday.

Some guys swear by the soapy water technique with decals. Kinda gives you some time to float them around and get the placement right, then squeegee them down/run the air and liquid out from underneath. I've totally done it on 1:1 cars, storefront windows, etc. I personally haven't done it on any lexan bodies, but it's worth a look. I think there is even a product...something like "application fluid". Essentially it's just a calculated mixture in a little spray bottle that is equivalent in function to the "soapy water". One thing I did notice when I was "doing vinyl" is sometimes squeegee passes on non-protected surfaces (i.e. no transfer tape on the topside of the decal) can lead to slight streaking/"scratches" that can be seen in the right light. But, the wet application method does provide some lubricity that helps to minimize this. I always took the carburetor rebuild mindset of "cleanliness is next to Godliness" with the decal applications.

Something like this

And I'm sure there are some soapy water YouTubes on the topic.

But, go with your gut, you have a plan and all that crap I just typed might just be noise. Last person I'm trying to be is the "good idea fairy".

Good luck, I've been enjoying your thread!

[juicedcoupe]

Personally, I like the Windex and hair dryer method. It works really good for weird angles and body lines.

I use a small (breath spray size) pump sprayer that I got somewhere.

[XLR8]

I'm pretty sure all of my ESC's deliver 6v max to the Rx but I read that your JustStock can be switched from 6v to 7.4v. Could this be what blew your LED's?
Anyway, I'm no LED expert and I really don't have the patience to rig a light controller so I just power all my lights from an empty port on the Rx. I take the easy (lazy) route.
The LED's I buy have resistors pre-wired so they are perfect for someone like me - lazy and impatient.

The Hobbywing Xerun 10 was set to 6V, I verified it with a DMM, but the current being 8A continuous output through the BEC, and a continuous 4A through the switch, is what I'm pretty sure took the LED's out, all of them and fast, some LED's die at 20mA, I fed them a possible 4,000mA

The 1060 will run those LED's with no issues, right from the switch.

Which pre-built LED's are you using?

I buy packets of 10 for 5 bucks each from Bob Jacobsen at Hobby Concepts. All colors, 3mm or 5mm and they come with about 6" wires and resistors pre-wired. Here's a link but he's on vacation now so website is down until he returns on Sept 1st.

https://hobbyconcepts.net/password

I get all my Tamiya semi truck stuff from Bob - he ships quick and prices are reasonable.
Bob has a great Youtube channel for all things RC semi related. https://www.youtube.com/@HobbyconceptsLLC

[GreenBar0n]

The Hobbywing Xerun 10 was set to 6V, I verified it with a DMM, but the current being 8A continuous output through the BEC, and a continuous 4A through the switch, is what I'm pretty sure took the LED's out, all of them and fast, some LED's die at 20mA, I fed them a possible 4,000mA

Thats not how current work. Regardless of the size of the supply, a device should only draw it's required amperage.

It is more likely that the availability of excess current highlighted a fault somewhere else.

They were wired in parallel. Check again, the inrush current is what got me, as the others failed, more current was supplied to the remaining working bulbs, taking them out too.

[GreenBar0n]

The decal squeegee was delayed in delivery, won't be here until tomorrow now. Hoping to finish Sunday.

Some guys swear by the soapy water technique with decals. Kinda gives you some time to float them around and get the placement right, then squeegee them down/run the air and liquid out from underneath. I've totally done it on 1:1 cars, storefront windows, etc. I personally haven't done it on any lexan bodies, but it's worth a look. I think there is even a product...something like "application fluid". Essentially it's just a calculated mixture in a little spray bottle that is equivalent in function to the "soapy water". One thing I did notice when I was "doing vinyl" is sometimes squeegee passes on non-protected surfaces (i.e. no transfer tape on the topside of the decal) can lead to slight streaking/"scratches" that can be seen in the right light. But, the wet application method does provide some lubricity that helps to minimize this. I always took the carburetor rebuild mindset of "cleanliness is next to Godliness" with the decal applications.

Something like this
Screenshot_20240817_205806_Samsung Internet.jpg

And I'm sure there are some soapy water YouTubes on the topic.

But, go with your gut, you have a plan and all that crap I just typed might just be noise. Last person I'm trying to be is the "good idea fairy".

Good luck, I've been enjoying your thread!

Thanks so much! I have been using Dawn and water, but without the squeegee, and there are too many bubbles left behind. The squeegee is necessary for the large window and hood decals, it has a felt strip on it to prevent the scratching, that's why I'm waiting for it, but doing this without soap and water would be too hard.

[GreenBar0n]

I buy packets of 10 for 5 bucks each from Bob Jacobsen at Hobby Concepts. All colors, 3mm or 5mm and they come with about 6" wires and resistors pre-wired. Here's a link but he's on vacation now so website is down until he returns on Sept 1st.

https://hobbyconcepts.net/password

I get all my Tamiya semi truck stuff from Bob - he ships quick and prices are reasonable.
Bob has a great Youtube channel for all things RC semi related. https://www.youtube.com/@HobbyconceptsLLC

That sounds like a great deal. Thanks!

[juicedcoupe]

They were wired in parallel. Check again.

What I mean is that amperage can't be forced through a device. At a given voltage, an (non-faulty) led should have a consistent amperage draw.

Being wired is parallel will only increase the total draw at the source, not the individual draw.

I suspect that the power supply wasn't stable, causing voltage swings. I've seen some pretty "dirty" power supplies that just disagree with some devices, regardless if they look to be correct.