RC10 DS Classic - Build

[GreenBar0n]

I could be wrong but they look like 1/16 " spacers. Can be used for down stops and also for adjusting the rear hub carrier.

Good call, thanks! Down stop it is.

From the vintage DS manual, page 30.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2176101/Associated-Electrics-Team-Associated-Rc10-Ds-Dual-Sport.html?page=30#manual

[GreenBar0n]

These shocks really are nice quality, the chassis is smooth and the anti-roll should make it hold well in the turns. Looking forward to driving this one.

Stealth is next.

[GreenBar0n]

No where in this manual do they show the diff grease, or where it goes:


The kit includes the diff grease, but it has a part number on it, no name on it, and the manual never calls for any grease on the diff. I know what it is and where it goes, but someone new, or their first kit?



Hope they sell parts for this kit, with that manual, people are going to need them.

[GreenBar0n]

Diff lube applied.


The Packing grease the outdrives have on them is dirty, make sure to clean the diff ring surfaces well with alcohol.




Manual shows thrust bearing as a separate set of balls that goes around the bolt, and sandwiched between washers, like the classic Stealth has always been.


What's in the kit is a wafer with the balls in it already:


No mention of grease on this assembly in the manual, but metal on metal is going to get grease from me.


The thrust bearing/diff adjustment bolt, is metric, none of my AE wrenches would fit it, be prepared for that one.


Idler gear has the shaft built in, contrary to the manual once again.


No mention in the manual of how tight to set the diff, or the thrust bearing bolt. I tightened it all the way.




Manual says to add black grease to the diff, another strange thing I've not done with any other Stealth.








Used Tamiya Anti-Wear on the dog bones and outdrives, no mention of lube on those in the manual either.



Ready for electronics.






Despite the awful manual, I'm a DS guy now, haven't even driven it yet, but I know it's going to be the best on-road RC I've tried; serious engineering and quality, so many adjustments available to get it setup and handling how you want it.

Electronics and paint will be here Monday, going to get the stock body masked off for the boxart tomorrow.

[GreenBar0n]

[XLR8]

"...the problem is in the manual..."
"The manual shows this picture, but..."
"...ignore the manual..."
"Next manual problem... bulkhead ball studs..."
"...according the the DS manual, I have crazy negative camber..."
"...disconnect from reality in the manual."
"I really hope that's the last of the nonsense."

But, it's not over.

"...the manual doesn't say which nuts go where..."
"No where in this manual do they show the diff grease..."
"Hope they sell parts for this kit, with that manual, people are going to need them."
"Despite the awful manual..."


I have a question for anyone who's built a modern AE buggy; Do those manuals contain this many errors and omissions?

Maybe if the responsible parties at AE would wake up and try a little harder, the manual would be a little better??
Checking such a document for accuracy isn't hard and it only takes a few minutes.
If I had published something like this where I worked, I could be fired.

[XLR8]

Your build looks great!

FWIW, I never apply grease to nylon gears or dog bones. It's messy and the dirt it collects will become grinding paste causing premature wear.

[Dangeruss]

Chassis came out looking really nice.



Serendipitously cool that without the gold centers the wheels look a lot like old Foresight Drag Mags

[RogueIV]

"...the problem is in the manual..."
"The manual shows this picture, but..."
"...ignore the manual..."
"Next manual problem... bulkhead ball studs..."
"...according the the DS manual, I have crazy negative camber..."
"...disconnect from reality in the manual."
"I really hope that's the last of the nonsense."

But, it's not over.

"...the manual doesn't say which nuts go where..."
"No where in this manual do they show the diff grease..."
"Hope they sell parts for this kit, with that manual, people are going to need them."
"Despite the awful manual..."


I have a question for anyone who's built a modern AE buggy; Do those manuals contain this many errors and omissions?

Maybe if the responsible parties at AE would wake up and try a little harder, the manual would be a little better??
Checking such a document for accuracy isn't hard and it only takes a few minutes.
If I had published something like this where I worked, I could be fired.

The classic exhibited similar issues as well. Seems they need an editor and build tester over there. AE if you're listening, I can help you out with this.

[GreenBar0n]

"...the problem is in the manual..."
"The manual shows this picture, but..."
"...ignore the manual..."
"Next manual problem... bulkhead ball studs..."
"...according the the DS manual, I have crazy negative camber..."
"...disconnect from reality in the manual."
"I really hope that's the last of the nonsense."

But, it's not over.

"...the manual doesn't say which nuts go where..."
"No where in this manual do they show the diff grease..."
"Hope they sell parts for this kit, with that manual, people are going to need them."
"Despite the awful manual..."


I have a question for anyone who's built a modern AE buggy; Do those manuals contain this many errors and omissions?

Maybe if the responsible parties at AE would wake up and try a little harder, the manual would be a little better??
Checking such a document for accuracy isn't hard and it only takes a few minutes.
If I had published something like this where I worked, I could be fired.

I have a question for anyone who's built a modern AE buggy; Do those manuals contain this many errors and omissions?

I built the 40th a couple of months ago, the only problem I had with that manual was the washers on the front body mount, is it (2) or (4)?? Still don't know the correct answer to that.

This DS manual was torture though, I was constantly trying to second guess if they were misleading me on purpose, they showed a ball stud in the middle hole in the rear arm in a few different diagrams, and they are thrifty with those diagrams. Or they show the left, or right side being built, and then say now do the other side.

[GreenBar0n]

Your build looks great!

FWIW, I never apply grease to nylon gears or dog bones. It's messy and the dirt it collects will become grinding paste causing premature wear.

I'll be on the road with this one, hopefully clean asphalt. Metal on metal has done some nasty things to my other AE dogbones, divots and such, going to try to keep these lubed. Thanks!

[GreenBar0n]

Chassis came out looking really nice.



Serendipitously cool that without the gold centers the wheels look a lot like old Foresight Drag Mags

Much thanks @Dangeruss! Those rims you have there are sweet! Were those sold by themselves, or they came on a model? I'm really liking the DS wheels with no caps on them.

[GreenBar0n]

The classic exhibited similar issues as well. Seems they need an editor and build tester over there. AE if you're listening, I can help you out with this.

Seems like we're already doing the testing and manual revision for them, for free . At least I got a working DS out of it.

I would appreciate a perfect manual that I can 100% trust, and have faith in. Nothing worse than constantly doubting the only source of info you have available.

[GreenBar0n]

Let me have a diablo sammich, a Dr Pepper and make it fast. I'm in a g d hurry. -- Buford T. Justice

Mailman just stopped by, I'm eastbound.

[Dangeruss]

Much thanks @Dangeruss! Those rims you have there are sweet! Were those sold by themselves, or they came on a model? I'm really liking the DS wheels with no caps on them.

Always welcome! Drag Mags were aftermarket wheels, early 60's to early 70's muscle cars. On your Vette the DS wheels really do look better without the caps.

By the way...
"Let me have a diablo sammich, a Dr Pepper and make it fast. I'm in a g d hurry. -- Buford T. Justice"
...hands down best part of an already fantastic movie