RC10 DS Classic - Build

[GreenBar0n]

unfortunately AE forgot about thew Worlds holes on the new bulkheads. Best alternative is the inside under the wing tube holes where you have them. It was always impossible to get a driver in there haha. A tamiya took just sqeaks by

Nicely done, you called it

I tried putting the ball studs in the vintage spot, with the Classic camber tie rod length, and then this happened - serious positive camber:


Looked at the DS on AE, and sure enough, the ball studs go under the wing tubes.


Going to take another swing at it, thanks guys!

[GoMachV]

Just don't put the trans brace on upside down like they did

[XLR8]

I've never built a DS so I appreciate that you're documenting your build here.
I'll definitely be coming back when I'm ready to build mine.
Thanks.

[GreenBar0n]

That Tamiya tool tip made it happen, thanks @GoMachV!


Moved the ball stud to the 'correct' location under the wing tubes, and now with the rear camber tb set according to the DSC manual, I have crazy negative camber.




Not sure why there's such a disconnect from reality in the manual.

Going to get the correct gap, then try to apply it to the other side to see if I have it exactly correct, and then report back with the actual setting necessary.

[juicedcoupe]

Going to get the correct gap, then try to apply it to the other side to see if I have it exactly correct, and then report back with the actual setting necessary.

Eyeball it for now.

Then set your camber at ride height.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/rpm-precision-1-10th-1-8th-scale-camber-gauge-rpm70992/p4501?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjunU7_HmhwMV_XR_AB1bhR8kEAQYAiABEgJJa_D_BwE

[GreenBar0n]

Going to get the correct gap, then try to apply it to the other side to see if I have it exactly correct, and then report back with the actual setting necessary.

Eyeball it for now.

Then set your camber at ride height.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/rpm-precision-1-10th-1-8th-scale-camber-gauge-rpm70992/p4501?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjunU7_HmhwMV_XR_AB1bhR8kEAQYAiABEgJJa_D_BwE

I've got the RPM 1/10 camber gauge, and their toe-in gauge too, I was prepared for something like this. Thanks!

[GreenBar0n]

I'm going to get back to work, but had to share this one.

After the manual shows putting one of the too long ball studs from Bag D in the rear arm, and in the center hole:


Nothing actually goes in the center hole at all. Sway bar goes in the hole closest to the Stealth:


The shock goes in the farthest from Stealth.


I really hope that's the last of this non-sense. Back to it.

[GreenBar0n]

I set the RPM camber gauge at 0°.


There is only the slightest sliver of negative camber with the rear arms parallel to the chassis.


I set my Rear Camber turnbuckles to 0.45" or 11.49mm, to get there.

[Dustydrone]

Thank you for taking the time to document this build with all the trials and tribulations. This is definitely going to save me time and frustration!

Keep up the great work!
Alan

[GreenBar0n]

Thank you for taking the time to document this build with all the trials and tribulations. This is definitely going to save me time and frustration!

Keep up the great work!
Alan

Appreciate the encouragement, and glad to hear you'll be able to get some use out of all this. Thanks!

[GreenBar0n]

Chassis nearly done.


In Bag D are (4) small 4-40 nuts, and (2) large 4-40 nuts, the manual doesn't say which nuts go where:
The large 4-40 nuts in Bag D, go on the rear shock tower shock bolts.


No shocks yet, propped up to ride height.




Couldn't resist testing out the wheelbase.




HPI body fits well.


No shocks, slammed all the way down and still have clearance. Starting to really like the DS.


Should be able to finish the entire chassis tomorrow. Motor\ESC and paint should be here Monday.

[Dustydrone]

Chassis nearly done.


In Bag D are (4) small 4-40 nuts, and (2) large 4-40 nuts, the manual doesn't say which nuts go where:
The large 4-40 nuts in Bag D, go on the rear shock tower shock bolts.


No shocks yet, propped up to ride height.




Couldn't resist testing out the wheelbase.




HPI body fits well.


No shocks, slammed all the way down and still have clearance. Starting to really like the DS.


Should be able to finish the entire chassis tomorrow. Motor\ESC and paint should be here Monday.

WOW! That double cab fits perfect and looks amazing

I think I'm going to have to order a second DS now Who makes the double cab body and do you know where they are sold? I will be paying close attention to how you build the mounts.
Alan

[GreenBar0n]

WOW! That double cab fits perfect and looks amazing

I think I'm going to have to order a second DS now Who makes the double cab body and do you know where they are sold? I will be paying close attention to how you build the mounts.
Alan

The DC body is an unlicensed knockoff found on ebay, it's 190mm wide, and a really tight fit with stock DS wheels. Could open up the wheel wells a bit, or even add fender flares.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165985341090



The DC body would work better with different wheels, but probably not the best choice for the DS, I'll keep trying to make it work though.

[GreenBar0n]

Having difficulty figuring out the shock seals and spacers.

On the tree are (4) thick spacers in the yellow box, and (8) thin ones with a bevel that looks like they ride on the o-rings on one side, in the red box:


Manual shows (5) spacers and seals per shock, and shows the thin plastic washers need to be trimmed:


What are these soft looking washers, and how do they fit in to all of this?


Thanks!

[rctenracer]

I could be wrong but they look like 1/16 " spacers. Can be used for down stops and also for adjusting the rear hub carrier.