Making a carbon fiber chassis the beginner way (part2)

[JosephS]

First trim and weigh

Looks like this is a bit over built. At 5.7 oz it’s the same as the stock t2 aluminum chassis. It feels quite sturdy.

Note:
I targeted 3.0 mm since that was the rc10 graphite thickness. The tub shape must be thinner to allow proper nose piece mounting.

Note:
Discovered that wet cutting with the rotary tool was faster and made less dust.
Sand Paper nail files are excellent and fast sanding spots

[JosephS]

I filed away some of the front until I could fit in the nose plate. I then used the donor t2 chassis as a drilling template.

When I use the right tools things go quick.
I am trying to figure out how to make sure that the nose plate is on plane with the rear end. Right now there isn’t a full amount of clearance and I think it may be slightly at an angle.

I am considering mounting a dr10 transmission to this instead of a stock t2.
Has anyone tried bolting that to vintage rc10’s yet?

[JosephS]

An attempt at a more cosmetic chassis that is about 2.0 mm.

I ordered some carbon fiber fabric off Amazon and I am not 100% convinced to it is actually carbon fiber.

About 3.6 oz of fabric and 3.5 oz of epoxy with 3:1 medium hardener and this seemed correct.

2 coats of wax, man and parafilm release.

I spent much more time cutting fabric to size and cutting relief for the tail section. I paid special attention to make sure the release film wasn’t wrinkled and placed clay on the inner corners, as well as blocks of clay in the nose and the bulkhead tabs.

I used a double bag because it seemed the first bag was not holding vacuum.

Curing at 75 degree overnight.

[JosephS]

Looks good. Still some ripples but much less. The fabric from Amazon is not likely carbon fiber. The chassis is 2mm and heavier than my last 2.7 mm the 2.7mm chassis used fiberglass for a few layers.

With the 2mm size the nose plate fits like it should. There is a large bump behind where I placed the clay block.

There were many fewer voids and no pinholes in this one. Once the bumps are knocked down and the sides trimmed it’s going to be about correct.

The epoxy didn’t fully cure overnight. That means I didn’t mix it well enough. It will fully cure over the week.

[JosephS]

The mold seemed ok enough to do test in.

3 coats paste wax
2 coats mans 200
2 coats mans 2300

Made a 3 piece outside.

Made a chassis bottom and 2 sides a separate pieces I see that this is how the fusion speed tubs were made.

The mold needs some work still. I made the beads far too wide and that didn’t leave enough space for the height of the tub. I used clay to extend the sides, will use jb weld in the future

The bottom has a bunch of small defects I can sand out.

Used the 5.7oz 2k weave.
Used 3m 77 as a stabilizer

To keep the resin from kicking fast I popped the cans in the freezer for 5 minutes. As well made a small ice try to hold the mixing cups and mixed resin batches.

This worked well as the resin is taking a long time to cure. I need it.

Took my time, wore gloves and tried to work everything into the corners.applied a bunch of perforated release film and breather over.


Also…

I made sure to trim and snip as much of the fabric as I could, nothing over the edge of the mold at all and relief cuts under the bulkhead support.

I should have used more breather, I think that will help with the wrinkles.


I could pull vacuum, but the bag would fail. Went for a double bag and don’t really have confidence that will hold.

[JosephS]

Great test results.

Learned a few things as well it is going to be a useful result.

The chassis was resin light. The vacuum held, but the resin from the top did not diffuse to the outside layers.


The cosmetic effect of the 3 piece wasn’t great. There were lots of orphan strands of carbon fiber.

This may be helped with more resin, maybe not.


The carbon fiber is a directional weave. I mean for the bottom to have the major weave be along the chassis and it was across.

The shape Is good geometry is good. The walls are tall enough

The corners are pretty crisp inside and out

The nose plate accidentally has the proper angle that allows for the bumper and a body to be mounted.


Very few wrinkles That may be because of the lack of resin, the breather in multiple layers reduces the problems in bagging,